Project Appleseed

Congratulations Milo!!!!!

"Part of the Rifleman skills we teach is to efficiently don and adjust a sling.  After you've practiced enough with the USGI sling, you won't need a perfect adjustment.  There's a range of length that's good enough to be successful putting rounds on target.  I can't imagine needing to remove a sling to preserve the adjustment."

 I mark spots on the sling for the positions. I have found it easier to make the adjustments off rifle and then clip the sling back on than finagle the sling while attached (especially with a brand new, thick cotton slings) I've had slings that were so thick that the adjuster would not close because I couldn't generate enough pressure to close it against my bicep, only attacking it off rifle worked. Also, Less chance of wandering muzzles.

Congrats Milo!!!

I may try to make a clean PDF copy for my pre-event emails. These comments are great too, but keeping it simple to get folks started will be a great addition to help first timers prepare.

Great write up

Quote from: Smallbore (Timothy_D) on April 30, 2026, 08:08:49 PMGreat images.

I'd add that installing a second J hook to the front loop makes it easier to remove the sling without losing your last adjustment.

Part of the Rifleman skills we teach is to efficiently don and adjust a sling.  After you've practiced enough with the USGI sling, you won't need a perfect adjustment.  There's a range of length that's good enough to be successful putting rounds on target.  I can't imagine needing to remove a sling to preserve the adjustment.

Quote from: Fulcrum on May 01, 2026, 03:14:03 PM<snip>
The other way is to put the folded over and sewn part inside the loop. When I use a QD swivel and plug the swivel into the cup mount, sometimes the extra folded fabric makes it a bit difficult. Also, I've had the swivel become disconnected from the mount a few times, and I wonder if the folded fabric can press on the push-button and release the swivel from the mount. Is there an important reason why the folded fabric must be outside the loop and not inside? This is not something I've experimented with, but I've considered switching it, and I'm wondering if there is a reason why that would be a bad idea.

This article focuses on the original design for the sling.  One time, I replaced the hook with a push button QD because that was what was on the stock.  It worked okay.  No issues with uncommanded releases of the QD.

QuoteThe second thing is the front end of the sling. The instructions have the keeper installed so the latch side faces the stock, and the reason is that it is less likely to snag on things and open accidentally, which makes sense. However, when I set it up that way, sometimes I find the latch side of the keeper against my arm in certain positions. When it is reversed so the flat side is between the sling and the rifle, even if the keeper is against my arm, it's the flat side, which isn't uncomfortable. So that's usually how I set mine up. If you set it up the proper way, how do you deal with the keeper latch to keep it from digging into your arm?

Trial and error.  Get into position and move the keeper forward or aft (without changing sling length) until you find a location that doesn't bug your hand.

Quote from: 413guy on May 01, 2026, 03:49:02 PMGreat write up and detailed images.  Thank you for sharing and posting this resource OP!

You're welcome, sir.  A friend in Albuquerque prodded me to do a write-up.

VERY helpful writeup and illustrations for a new guy. Thank you for posting this. And very good and interesting follow-up questions. Looking forward to learning the responses. Great thread.

I ran out of the last of the full color patches I had, I'm still working on tracking down 2 for folks.

Great write up and detailed images.  Thank you for sharing and posting this resource OP!

That's a very clear and well-written set of instructions. Very helpful!

I like to use push-button QD swivels on my rifles that have stocks with QD cup mounts, so I undo the buckle and replace the J-hook with a QD swivel, and I add another QD swivel to the adjustment loop end.

There are two things I've gone back and forth on a few times. First, at the rear, when making the loop for the J-hook, there are two potential waist do it. One option is to place the folded over and sewn fabric on the outside of the loop and between the sling and rifle as shown in these instructions. I understand that is the proper way. The other way is to put the folded over and sewn part inside the loop. When I use a QD swivel and plug the swivel into the cup mount, sometimes the extra folded fabric makes it a bit difficult. Also, I've had the swivel become disconnected from the mount a few times, and I wonder if the folded fabric can press on the push-button and release the swivel from the mount. Is there an important reason why the folded fabric must be outside the loop and not inside? This is not something I've experimented with, but I've considered switching it, and I'm wondering if there is a reason why that would be a bad idea.

The second thing is the front end of the sling. The instructions have the keeper installed so the latch side faces the stock, and the reason is that it is less likely to snag on things and open accidentally, which makes sense. However, when I set it up that way, sometimes I find the latch side of the keeper against my arm in certain positions. When it is reversed so the flat side is between the sling and the rifle, even if the keeper is against my arm, it's the flat side, which isn't uncomfortable. So that's usually how I set mine up. If you set it up the proper way, how do you deal with the keeper latch to keep it from digging into your arm?