Help with LTR

[Cato in PA]

Hello, PA Appleseed community! I'm brand new to firearms. I bought my first rifle, a Ruger 10/22, over Black Friday so that I can make a Liberty Training Rifle out of it and attend an Appleseed event in the spring. It sounds like a great way to get started shooting, and I love learning about American history.

I've got all the parts I need to assemble my LTR, but I'm afraid I just don't have the skills to install them. I can't get the factory front sight off so that I can install my Tech Sights front, for instance; I tried applying a little Liquid Wrench and giving it a few hits with a punch, but not only did it not move, I got a small ding just below the dovetail notch because the punch I used was steel and I didn't think to use brass. I've read up on techniques over at Rimfirecentral, used Google, etc., but ultimately I'm just no good at working with tools (yet).

I suppose I could take my parts to a gunsmith - I don't mind paying for good work - but then I'd be just as clueless about what to do as I am now. Is there anyone in the Pittsburgh area with the the tools and knowledge who could work with me on this?

-Installing sling swivels
-Removing factory front sight so I can install Tech Sights front sight
-Removing factory bolt stop pin (it's stuck)
-General advice on tools, anything else I need to know,  etc.

Like I said, I don't mind paying, but being able to learn is just as important to me as getting the job done.

[Chainsaw]

Hey Cato,

I could try to explain how to do those things, but it seems like you already have the info.  I'll post your request on our FB page too in case someone there is local.

In case you want to try again... the sight only comes off one way, left to right and... you might not realize is how hard you actually have to whack some of them (front sight) to get them out.  The 1st time I did it I was afraid I was going to break something...

[Cato in PA]

Thanks! Yeah, I've been trying to drive out the sight left to right, but it just won't budge. I'm afraid to buy a brass punch and give it a good whack because I read that brass is a soft metal, and I'm not eager to go at it with the steel punches again because I don't want to get another nick on the barrel. I'm a perfectionist, and even small imperfections like that drive me nuts 

[technoronin]

The pins on my rifles are all pretty loose.  One of the things I like about having a bolt buffer is that it doesn't just fall out like the bolt stop pin does.  I've had to hunt for the pin after it fell out a few times while cleaning.  The other pins I just use the tip of a small screwdriver to push them out, no hammering involved, just make sure the bolt is forward when you go to push them out.

I had help installing the Tech-Sights on my rifle (thanks Larry!).  I'll bet there's somebody near you who can help.

[Transform]

For what it's worth Cato, you're not alone. It takes time, patience, and lots of practice to learn new skills. Since you're "brand new to firearms", consider the possibility that expecting yourself to learn proper handling, marksmanship AND gunsmithing, ALL at once, might be a bit too much to take on. Consider this early work an investment in developing a relationship with a good local gunsmith, as you look forward to more complicated future projects.

Like I said, I don't mind paying, but being able to learn is just as important to me as getting the job done.

I don't want to get another nick on the barrel. I'm a perfectionist, and even small imperfections like that drive me nuts

Those small nicks and scratches are also known as "character". Try redefining your concept: those small nicks are not "imperfections", they're "learning experiences" from trying to learn it on your own. Future memories of your own initiative. Future reminders of your learning curve. Useful humility, when it becomes your turn to teach others.

[FiremanBob]

Cheers to you for having the courage to dig in and give it a a try. Don't give up. It sounds like you're doing the right research.

Steady tapping at gradually increasing intensity with the brass punch will move the front sight out for you. Remember to install the new Tech-Sight from right to left. The dovetail is tapered that way.

Same for the bolt stop pin - steady tapping with the brass punch will move it. I guess you are going to install a buffer, such as the Tuffer Buffer? Give the new buffer a coat of WD-40 and insert it with a twisting motion as though it were a screw. Make sure that the edge of the buffer does not hang up on the lip of the hole in the receiver. If it does, press from inside and wriggle it to free it.

Go ahead and learn on this one. Once you get it, if you really don't like the character marks you gave it, brand-new barrels are cheap and plentiful on Ebay. Besides, you should think of this as your first 10/22. Somehow they are like potato chips. I'm shopping for my third right now.

The sling swivel is pretty simple. Do you have a vise to firmly hold the stock? If not, you'll need a friend to hold it. You can easily drill the pilot holes with a hand-held drill. They should be as wide as the thickness of the screw shaft of the stud. If too narrow, installing the stud can split the stock. And drill the front one with the barrel/action removed so you don't stab the barrel with the drill bit once the hole is made.

If you were within 100 miles of me I'd be glad to lend a hand for a beer, but you're a little far from here.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Cato, 

I can help you out.  Sending you a PM.

Stand

[Cato in PA]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. I think I'm going to work with Stand.

I thought about buying a Tuffer Buffer, but the design of the Kidd bolt buffer appealed to me more. It's very easy to work with and comes with a lifetime guarantee.

I don't intend to replace the barrel. I'd like to become familiar with the factory parts so I don't damage any truly valuable parts if I decide to upgrade down the road. Even for a 10/22 carbine, my rifle was dirt cheap. It was supposed to be on sale for $200 after a $30 rebate at Gander Mountain, but it rang up as $200 at the register. I sent in the rebate anyway and got a check back, bringing the final price down to $170.

[FiremanBob]

You can't go wrong with Kidd parts. Possibly the best in the 10/22 business.

[technoronin]

Don't forget to order a GI sling from the Appleseed Project.

Actually, I shot Rifleman with the cheapest nylon sling that Academy had on the shelf, but I thought I would put in a plug.  Plus, I now have a couple of the slings from Appleseed, they are better.

I also bought the sling bases and swivels from Academy.  There is a special kit from Uncle Mike's that uses the barrel band for the front sling stud.  It comes with 3/4" inch swivels, which are too small for the GI sling, buy a set of 1&1/4" swivels.

I install the auto-bolt release on all my 10/22s, make sure you get the spring put back in correctly.  I wound up partially disassembling and reassembling a trigger group for someone a few months ago to fix it.  That was also the Appleseed where I shot Rifleman and my car broke down in the middle of nowhere.

What else?  If you didn't buy both of the Tech-Sights adjustment tools, I recommend them.  And don't forget the Loctite.

[Charles McKinley]

Loop sling: yes

Forget the barrel band.  The new ones are plastic.  Just drill the stock.

Auto bolt release..... if you really want it do it DIY.  I don't bother.

Sight adjustment tools: Spire point FMJ or a small screw driver.  Maybe the A2 style tool for adjusting the windage on the rear tech sight.  Elevation adjustment is much easier with the screwdriver than the "tool" they will sell you on the sight that adjust with the rear sight.  (200 model?)

A factory barrel is MORE than accurate enough for AS! Rack grade rifle, surplus ball ammo, 4MOA.  It is not a gear race.  I will put my $130 baby bolt against any race gun out there.  Unless it is Birdman and he is just a freak of nature. (see Zanesville AAR)

Teachable Attitude is the most important thing to bring.  We can get you throught the forgotten what ever doo dad.  Trust the instrutors and follow direction and suggestions.

[Cato in PA]

I'm pretty much set in terms of parts for the rifle.

-Grovtec sling studs & swivels (if you've never read about them and Uncle Mike's, have a look at this article)
-Cotton sling from Appleseed store
-TSR100 tech sights w/adjustment tool
-Kidd bolt buffer
-Tier 3 trigger job from Brimstone Gunsmithing (includes bolt release modification)

Should make for a nice first rifle...if I can get everything put together.

[ItsanSKS]

Fixed the link for ya.

Excellent article, by the way- did not know that about Uncle Mikes / GrovTec.

[Hinermad]

Do you have a vise to firmly hold the stock? If not, you'll need a friend to hold it. You can easily drill the pilot holes with a hand-held drill.

I found that a Black & Decker Workmate makes a dandy rifle vise. I used an old towel to pad the jaws so they wouldn't mar the stock, and drilled the pilot holes for the swivel studs with the barrel in place. (I wrap a bit of masking tape around the drill bit to mark how deep it should go. The Uncle Mike's studs I used listed the correct drill sizes and depths on the package.)

I also used the Workmate to remove the factory front sight. I opened it up so I could lay the rifle across the steel rails underneath the Workmate's wooden jaws (padded with the towel, of course). I positioned the rifle so the sight dovetail was -just- past the edge of the rail, then started pounding with the brass punch and hammer. If the barrel doesn't have solid support under or right next to the dovetail, or if the barrel is on a surface that can flex like thin plywood, the the flex will absorb some of the impact and not allow it to be applied to the sight.

Dave

[Cato in PA]

I just got back from working with Stand. He did a fantastic job of putting everything together and explaining how it worked. I even got a chance to fire my first shots in his back yard.

I can't wait to attend a camp