Project Appleseed

Hi...

I just bought a Wal-Mart Ruger 10/22 (K-10 22" barrel version) and am in the process of turning it into a LWT. Today I broke it down for the first time and found the only way to clean it from the breach end is to use a Hoppes bore snake. Otherwise, I have to clean it from the muzzle end if I use a cleaning rod. What are your recommendations on cleaning equipment? Ive decided Im buying a .22 boresnake, but for more substantial cleaning I am thinking I will need a cleaning rod.

I talked to a tech guy at Brownells today and he recommended a graphite or carbon one piece cleaning rod. I cant make my mind up between the Hoppes graphite one piece rod or the high end Tipton one piece carbon rods. Ive read some bad reviews of the Hoppes one piece graphite rod on Midway USA and am leary about putting down twenty some bucks for something that might be cheap.

Also, Brownells sells some "Dewey muzzle guards," designed to protect the crown of the 10/22. They are on page 246 of the current #61 catalog. Its item # 234-014-102AB at Brownells. Any opinions or experiences with this item?

Ive already installed Tech Sights (TS200 model) on mine and ordered a Bell and Carlson magazine release to install. Im also working on installing a USGI sling on it. I also ordered the Tech sights sight adjuster.

But my real question at this stage has to do with effective cleaning tools that wont damage my 10/22 rifling or the crown of the rifle. I know its not a match grade barrel, but Im one of these detail guys. I dont like to do things halfway.

thanks,

Eric, future Appleseeder

I clean all my rifles from the muzzle end.  I gently slide the cleaning rod down the barrel, screw the tip with the solvent soaked patch, or brush, or dry patch (depending on stage of cleaning) and then slowly pull the tip/brush/patch out of the barrel while keeping the rod centered in the muzzle.  The removes the crud from the barrel without pushing it into the chamber/receiver.

It's worked for 30 years on my M1A and a shorter amount of time on some of my other rifles.

The fancy coated rods?  I bought one or two in the last couple of years for the AR's but the M1 and M1A still get the old fashioned cleaning rods.

Do, or buy, what makes you feel good.  Just don't believe all the advertisements - they just want to SELL you stuff.

Brownells or maybe Power Custom sells a jig youcan use to drill a cleaning rod-sized hole in the back end of the receiver to allow for cleaning from the breach. Rather than go that expense, I broke the rifle down, remover the bolt, and put a close-fitting rod down the barrel and all the way to the rear wall of the receiver. I marked the spot, and with a little help from my calipers, I had a location to drill my cleaning rod hole. Works great and cost nothing. Also, the stock covers the hole, so the esthetics are unchanged.

Hope this helps,


Longshot

I use a GI M-16 cleaning kit (complete with patches, pipe cleaners, toothbrush, etc.) for "thorough" cleaning and a rag, a few drops of CLP and a Bore Snake for "quick jobs."

I'm definitely not a "detail" kind of guy so usually my cleaning job at an event is to run the snake through it a few times, drop in a few drops of Break Free/CLP, maybe wipe it out with a rag or something, and that's about it. Once I'm home I'll run a patch through it a few times with bore solvent then switch to a light coat of oil. I've never actually broken my 10/22s all the way down to clean them as they can be cleaned quite well without disassembly. (Provided you knock the gunk off as you go.)

One thing to keep in mind, especially if you're new to rifle shooting, is the rifle is a piece of equipment much like your lawnmower. It's not your grand-daddy's shotgun that needs to be clean and immaculate at all times. A rifle needs to function properly in the field. It doesn't have to be pretty or shiny or even nice to look at. It has to work. Keep it working like you'd keep your car working. Change the oil and filters, air up the tires, keep the fluids topped off and then check them regularly. Your rifle is the same way. Give it a good thorough cleaning when you can but keep it booger-free and lubricated the rest of the time. And use it often! The more you use your rifle, the better it'll work!

Lots of good comments.

Buy the BoreSnake, you'll want it for use on the line, and quick cleaning.

The Dewey rods are good stuuf (just like John Dewey himself, rest his soul).

I have both of these items, and they work. Old Dog laid out the way to clean from the muzzle, and it works.

Quote from: Nickle on March 17, 2009, 11:23:04 AM
Lots of good comments.

Buy the BoreSnake, you'll want it for use on the line, and quick cleaning.

The Dewey rods are good stuuf (just like John Dewey himself, rest his soul).

I have both of these items, and they work. Old Dog laid out the way to clean from the muzzle, and it works.

I just bought the .22 boresnake from Midway USA and a Tipton carbon fiber one piece cleaning rod for my Marlin 336 30.30. If I like the Tipton, I will order another one for my LWT in .22 size. The carbon or graphite fiber rods are supposed to be the easiest on barrel rifling and the crown, the tech guy from Brownells told me there is not as much need for a bore guide if you use the graphite/carbon cleaning rods.

I bought 1600 rounds of CCI mini-mag HV with my Wal-Mart 10/22. I plan to break in my new barrel with 200 to 400 rounds of  this, then use the rest at an Appleseed.
These are completely copper covered jackets. Do any of you guys use "Sweets" brand to combat heavy copper buildup?

What kind of solvent(s) do you use?

Ive been using Hoppes Elite Gun cleaner, either the spray or gel version. Was told a long time ago at BassPro this is about as good as you can get. Ive been thinking of changing my solvents to plain old Hoppes #9 for carbon and lead, followed up by "Sweets" for copper buildup. But Im open  to other suggestions.

later,

Eric

I use either Hoppe's #9 or Black Off (Black Off is a black powder solvent also good for smokeless powder and even corrosize surplus ammo).

A friend bought me a (plastic) bottle of Sweets a few years ago.  Over the course of the winter it leaked out of the bottom of the bottle and ruined a shelf.  I don't know whether it dissolved the plastic or there was a defect in the bottle but I've never bought any since.

UT40  (Sorry I shortened your name for ease)

Looks like you are on the right track with both chemical and equipment.  I'd add Remington Bore Cleaner (the brown stuff with the agitator ball in the Green and White bottle) It has a mild abrasive that knocks down the copper so the sweets can finish up the job. Don't leave the sweets in any longer than necessary to do the job - 15 min MAX. (but don't freak out if you go over once in a while)

I have had A LOT of experience with getting copper out of .338 bores with exactly the products you mentioned, plus the Rem clean.

You probably shouldn't have many issues with the .22 though.

jr

Quote from: jrturbo on March 17, 2009, 03:09:01 PM
UT40  (Sorry I shortened your name for ease)

Looks like you are on the right track with both chemical and equipment.  I'd add Remington Bore Cleaner (the brown stuff with the agitator ball in the Green and White bottle) It has a mild abrasive that knocks down the copper so the sweets can finish up the job. Don't leave the sweets in any longer than necessary to do the job - 15 min MAX. (but don't freak out if you go over once in a while)

I have had A LOT of experience with getting copper out of .338 bores with exactly the products you mentioned, plus the Rem clean.

You probably shouldn't have many issues with the .22 though.

jr

OK, I  will check out that Remington Bore Cleaner. Thanks. BTW,  I got that expensive, premo Tipton carbon cleaning rod on sale at Midway USA, for $24 something. Normally, the 36" Tipton for 27 to 45 Cal goes for 31.99.  So I saved like, seven bucks last night. 

later,

Eric

Is leading or copper really an issue in .22's?

My dad has his dad's bolt action Western Field .22 that helped keep their family fed during the depression years and it looks new inside the barrel.  My dad has his pre WW2 Savage .22 that has killed enough squirrels and rabbits over the years to fill up a few truck beds and it looks like new inside the barrel.  I have a Winchester M52B made in 1935 that has been shot enough by the previous owner that all the blueing is worn off the bolt handle and it still looks new in the barrel.

I'm not advising not to buy stuff to clean the barrel, I'm just wondering what you have to do to a .22 barrel to result in leading it up to the point of causing accuracy issues.

Just wondering.

Quote from: Nickle on March 17, 2009, 11:23:04 AM
Lots of good comments.

Buy the BoreSnake, you'll want it for use on the line, and quick cleaning.

The Dewey rods are good stuuf (just like John Dewey himself, rest his soul).

I have both of these items, and they work. Old Dog laid out the way to clean from the muzzle, and it works.

I was just at Gander Mountain looking at some of my cleaning options for the LTW and saw something that looked like it might work good. An OTIS "pull thru" .22 cleaning kit. Its expensive,  but works like a Hoppes boresnake. I can clean from the breach end of the LTW with the OTIS kit. And with OTIS, I dont  have to wash it like a Hoppes boresnake. Im not keen on washing a boresnake, caked full of solvent, lead residue and copper residue, in my washing machine. 

Anybody use OTIS .22 cleaning kit?

Eric

Seeing that I have several Otis kits, and not one of them fits a .22 Rimfire (too long), I'll recommend you check them out.

If it's made for the AR-15, it's the one that doesn't work. The non-flexible parts are too long to get into the action.

Quote from: Nickle on March 17, 2009, 07:53:16 PM
Seeing that I have several Otis kits, and not one of them fits a .22 Rimfire (too long), I'll recommend you check them out.

If it's made for the AR-15, it's the one that doesn't work. The non-flexible parts are too long to get into the action.

The one I saw today is specifically made for small caliber rifles. Such as .17, .22, airguns...that kind of stuff. Here is the link to it on the OTIS site:

http://www.otisgun.com/cgistore/store.cgi?page=/new/fhowto.html&setup=1&cart_id=

Eric

I've got a multi-caliber Otis kit that works great for a 1022. They are not cheap but do seem to get the job done and come in a nice compact pouch.

I *always* have a boresnake at the range with me. That along with some GunScrubber or CLP or whatever will solve a vast majority of problems.

For detail cleaning, a brass sectioned rod (one-piece carbons are on the shopping list) with brushes and jags. I've used the foaming bore cleaner for copper removal; it works ok. Best solvent I've found is "Ed's Red". It's a home made mix (google it), smells horrible, and cleans like nothing else. I only use it in the summertime outside. Winter cleanings I switch to Hoppe's.

I have the complete otis kit.  It has the normal pull through cable assortment with attachments for just about every caliber including shotguns as well as the cable meant specifically for .22 and .17.  I recommend it highly.  Mine came with a "How-to" video as well.  This thread has also reminded me that I need to order patches for it.......

- WRWIII

Anyone using a dry-lube on the 10/22?

rimfirecentral recommends using a teflon lube (or CLP - which I thought is odd as CLP is pretty oilly.)

I've been getting an increasing number of stovepipes and want to see if that helps.

Quote from: gunville on May 09, 2009, 04:08:22 AM
Anyone using a dry-lube on the 10/22?

rimfirecentral recommends using a teflon lube (or CLP - which I thought is odd as CLP is pretty oilly.)

I've been getting an increasing number of stovepipes and want to see if that helps.

I've been using rem-dry lube as recommended at http://ruger22.com/newpages/lube.htm on the bolt. It has worked well for me.

Fancy schmancy cleaning products are designed exactly like fishing lures, and they work, they catch fisherman and shooters.

In real life, most anything will work.

Any old rod and brush set (although the bore is the LAST thing that needs cleaned on a modern rifle).

Least expensive cleaning solvent, that works as well as anything on the market: MINERAL SPIRITS.
LIFETIME SUPPLY COSTS $5 A GALLON AT WALLY WORLD

Lube any synthetic motor oil or ATF
ANYTHING ELSE IS A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY.

Now get back to bailing

Guys, SamD is right, you are making this into rocket science.  It's just not that hard, and its not that critical either.

Use a rod from the muzzle
or
Use a snake type product (brand does not matter)

I got lazy and cheap.  I used a 5' length of heavy weed wacker line, melted a blob on the end.  Works great, I just thread on a patch and thread the line thru the receiver, pull it out the muzzle.  Cost?  how about 1 penny.

Quote from: eaglescouter on May 09, 2009, 04:32:53 PM
Guys, SamD is right, you are making this into rocket science.  It's just not that hard, and its not that critical either.

Use a rod from the muzzle
or
Use a snake type product (brand does not matter)

I got lazy and cheap.  I used a 5' length of heavy weed wacker line, melted a blob on the end.  Works great, I just thread on a patch and thread the line thru the receiver, pull it out the muzzle.  Cost?  how about 1 penny.

Now that is something I am going to try!


Thanks - WRWIII

Quote from: UwharrieTrail40 on March 17, 2009, 06:44:18 PM
I was just at Gander Mountain looking at some of my cleaning options for the LTW and saw something that looked like it might work good. An OTIS "pull thru" .22 cleaning kit. Its expensive,  but works like a Hoppes boresnake. I can clean from the breach end of the LTW with the OTIS kit. And with OTIS, I dont  have to wash it like a Hoppes boresnake. Im not keen on washing a boresnake, caked full of solvent, lead residue and copper residue, in my washing machine. 

Anybody use OTIS .22 cleaning kit?

Eric

I tried to send this as a PM, but the system would not let me. Said you could not be found as a member. <shrug> Dunno.

Disclaimer: This is NOT a rip on you, just curious to make sure I'm not missing something here. I've seen LTR (Liberty Training Rifle), but not LTW, and honestly, I can't help but think of Elmer Fudd when I see that abbreviation. Please let me know if this is a different abbreviation vs a typo?

Shhh... I'm gonna fiuh my Libuhty Twaining Wifle at that wascally wabbit! huhuhuhuhuhuhuhuh

As for gunking up your washer, try washing the boresnake in a pillowcase. I don't know if it would work, but it might. Alternatively, wash it (first?/only?) on the sidewalk with a hose or in the tub with the shower head.

My $0.02

Blessings,
Bill