Project Appleseed

So I have been researching this mod, and found that there is a jig one can buy at Midway.  I've also seen some Youtube vids where one can measure....and do it without a jig.

Stumbled upon this....and for the price, I think it is better than the jig Midway sells....and it kind of "mistake proofs" the task.

http://www.gunsmithertools.com/1022-cleaning-rod-hole.html

Here is a Youtube video of how it is used.  I ordered one this morning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZ2zxnMzhTk

R/
Chris

Very handy,did this to my 10/22 almost 10 years ago. easy peezy

I've done it to most of my 10/22's and I used the jig from Midway. I prefer the jig as it does not require you to remove the barrel from the receiver.

Cool little tool.  I neglected to read the supplemental directions, where one can secure the bushing using the receiver take down hole.

Here is a vid (backwards drilling doesn't work well) and then a few pics.

One receiver is off center a little, the other 2 came out perfect.

I have a Dewey nylon rod, in .17 cal, so it will surely work for all 3. 

The Volquartsen receiver took awhile..., lots more material than the standard Rugers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xakH2731mqQ

I came up with my own way of adding this to my 10/22s, and thought I'd take photos of the process on one that I bought just last week (Collector's 2nd Edition to use as an optic loaner, $240 from Precise Shooter in Lynnwood WA). Hope the rifle works, because I haven't fired it yet  .

Tools needed:

• Dykem layout dye (or a Sharpie)
• .224 projectile
• spent .22LR case
• surface gage or combination square
• punch or nail set
• hammer
• drills
• wood-jawed vise

Insert the .224 projectile in the chamber, with the tip facing backwards. Use this to set up your surface gage, using the top rail and left side of the receiver as your reference surfaces. Paint the rear of the receiver with layout dye or Sharpie, then scribe your lines in the ink. Make a light centerpunch where the lines cross, and put the spent .22 case in the chamber to keep filings out. Drill your hole in steps (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and yer done. I add a light chamfer with a countersink bit.

The granite surface plate is overkill; any tabletop will do. I use the surface gage for woodworking and making planes, but I reckon you could come up with a replacement (a combination square through the ejection port and base? depth gage?).