Project Appleseed

I think I see the problem, the ones I picked up are the wood and not for synthetic (knew I would find a way to mess this up).  Guess I'll need to see if I can find the synthetic set and see if the nut will work on the wood, or if they will fit the holes I drilled.  Thanks Nickle.

Gawl, you could also try filling in that hole with Plastic Wood - it hardens into something that can be drilled and tapped.

Brownell's sells Bisonite, an epoxy that is made specifically for stock work. It also can be drilled and tapped, and is good stuff.

An alternative would be Devcon F, should hold well enough to work.

That's assuming you can't make the woodscrew type work with epoxy.

Well I got the synthetic set today and the problem now is the hole for the post in the front is to big.  I put the post in and the nut from the inside and was able to tighten it down really good.  Problem is now if I hook the swivel up and rotate it counter clockwise the nut on the inside catches the inside of the stock and it loosens.  I was wondering if I could just use some 2 part poxy on the inside with the nut to fasten it in place to keep it from moving or if thats not a good idea.  Thanks for all the help everyone, much appreciated.

If you use epoxy you need to use some dishwashing liquid on the screw threads (as a "release" compound) or you may never get the stud in/out again.  The epoxy should hold the nut in place pretty good, you just don't want epoxy on the internal threads of the nut or the threads on the screw.

Quote from: Gawl on February 18, 2008, 02:51:23 PM
Well I got the synthetic set today and the problem now is the hole for the post in the front is to big.  I put the post in and the nut from the inside and was able to tighten it down really good.  Problem is now if I hook the swivel up and rotate it counter clockwise the nut on the inside catches the inside of the stock and it loosens.  I was wondering if I could just use some 2 part poxy on the inside with the nut to fasten it in place to keep it from moving or if thats not a good idea.  Thanks for all the help everyone, much appreciated.

That's what I would do.

Remember to use some form of release compound on the screw threads, and you should be all set.

Sounds good, I'll put some on it and should be good.  Thanks again for all the help, going to take the LTR out tomorrow and put some rounds through her to break her in 

If this hasn't been answered already...

Q:  Will an M16 A2 front post fit into a Tech Sight front assembly?
A:  Yes, both use the same 8-36 thread pattern.  However, you'll probably have to file off a few of the threads from the bottom of the M16 A2 post.

The Tech Sight front post has a threaded portion which is 0.395 inch long, and the M16 A2 front post has a threaded portion which is 0.460 inch long.  So, if you want to use an M16 A2 front post in your Tech Sight, you might find that you have to file off a few of the A2 threads in case the A2 post bottoms out before you have achieved the desired elevation change.
You can see the difference in the photo attached; the tech sight post is on the left, the A2 post on the right. 

Ouch. 8-36? Who uses 8-36?

If anyone does get that M16A2 sight, you may want to drop by the hardware store and see if you can find an 8-36 nut (good luck!). When you file down the post, thread the nut on the post BEFORE you start filing. That way, when you're done shortening the screw, you back the nut off the threads and it cleans up the end of the threads.

Old machinist's trick. 

OK, I could use some advice.  I need to take off the Weaver base to install the Tech Sights.  Problem is that the foremost screw apparently got a liberal dose of lok-tite.  I cannot get the dang thing off and I'm slowly ruining the screw head with my efforts.  I do have the correct size driver, or at least I started out with it.  By now I've managed to widen the slot enough I will need a larger driver to properly fit.  I'm also afraid that I will end up twisting the screw head off leaving the post in the threads (been there done that).
Is there any kind of trick to get past this, or am I approaching smith territory?

 Heat will release the Loc-Tite.
A large Soldering Iron on the head of the screw works great.

Quote from: ken grant on February 18, 2008, 07:29:58 PM
Heat will release the Loc-Tite.
A large Soldering Iron on the head of the screw works great.

Ah, now that I have.  I will try this out!

Try putting a little heat to it. All you have to heat is the screw, and that should be enough to loosen the Loc Tite. Heat a rod and touch it to the screw. Propane torch shoule give enough heat.

Oops, I see that got mentioned already.

Another thing that works sometimes is rapping the butt of the screwdriver with a hammer. Not too hard, enough to jar the screw some.

I assume you are using a gunsmith screwdriver set, not a standard screwdriver. Gunsmith screwdriver bits are hollow ground, giving parallel faces to fit the straight sides of the screws used in guns. Standard screwdrivers are tapered, or chisel shaped. When using a standard screwdriver in a gunscrew the tapered driver will tend to "walk" up the straight walls of the gunscrew slot, boogering it. Apply some heat as recommended,get the right screwdriver to apply the max. torque, and here's one more secret: automotive valve lapping compound. Available at any auto parts store. Apply a dab to the screwdriver tip, apply as much downward force as you can to keep the driver from walking out of the slot. The particles of grit will help fill in the boogered slot and keep the driver from slipping.
Good luck.

Is anyone having trouble with the Tech sights on a 10/22 as far as having to raise the front post sight so far that it wobbles?  I heard a couple of grumbles at the last shoot I was at but it didn't hit home until today.  I bought two sets and both seem like the sight post is to short.

Absolutely heard of this problem.  It seems to be a problem only sometimes. 

The two possible solutions seem to be, to replace the front sight post with an original M-16 post, same screw thgread but longer shank, or to install a Williams "riser block," available from MidwayUSA or Brownell's.  That raises the sight .250," which may be too much.   Solutions to that problem that come to mind would be to grind down the front sight post or install a shim (thinner than .250") under the rear sight.

This info is mostly second-hand, my own experiments are on-going.  "Bother," said Pooh.

Mine should be in today as well as my order with midway and I had ordered an A2 front post for my tech sights.  Once they get here I'll take a crack at installing them and let you know if it works golfer.

Quote from: golfer7080 on February 20, 2008, 03:09:43 AM
Is anyone having trouble with the Tech sights on a 10/22 as far as having to raise the front post sight so far that it wobbles?  I heard a couple of grumbles at the last shoot I was at but it didn't hit home until today.  I bought two sets and both seem like the sight post is to short.

Is this a problem with both the 100 and 200?  Or just the 100 (since the 200 has adjustable elevation it might meet the front post at a point that it is comfortable with.  Of course, I haven't figured out how to adjust the aperture elevation yet.  The tool doesn't seem to fit on it and my finger nails aren't strong enough to simply rotate it.)?

I talked with Larry (owner/designer) at tech-sights today.  The front sight post is fine with the TSR-100 series sights.  The issue came up with the 200 series.  The addition of the elevation adjustment on the rear sight makes the front post sight a tad short for 25m shooting.  They are looking into adding a "tall" front sight post as an accesory item and possibly incorporating a "tall" sight with the 200 series.  He has the front sight posts made for his sights and they are "thinned" compared to AR sight posts to present a better and more accurate sight picture for the .22's.   I have been researching sight posts and am looking for the most reasonable price for the taller sight post.  I will get some and play with "thinning" these to see how it works out.  I have added some links to where you can order sight posts and sight tools (most reasonable so far).

http://www.del-ton.com/Front_Sight_Post_p/st1020.htm
http://www.del-ton.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=a1+sight

Quote from: golfer7080 on February 20, 2008, 03:09:43 AM
Is anyone having trouble with the Tech sights on a 10/22 as far as having to raise the front post sight so far that it wobbles?  I heard a couple of grumbles at the last shoot I was at but it didn't hit home until today.  I bought two sets and both seem like the sight post is to short.

You might eke out a bit more useful travel out of the spring detent by removing the post, detent and spring, dropping a small bit of something into the spring hole (shotgun pellet, cylindrical segment of thick copper wire, etc.) and replacing the spring, detent, and post.  Now the detent will push against the post a bit more than it did before, and hopefully the post will rest in a consistent spot because it's now under the influence of the spring.  Whatever bit you drop into the hole should be larger in diameter than the spring, and unable to work its way inside the spring.   
edit- or, head to the hardware store, front sight assembly in hand, and find a longer spring. 

Forgive me if its posted here but my search wasn't finding it, but I'm having issues with the factory mag not seating right.  I have one mag which came with my 10/22, seats just fine.  I can load it up and slip it in no problem.  I purchased another from walmart (factory) that loaded will not slide in without me holding the mag release open.  I looked over both magazines and I can't see a single difference between them.  I haven't tried that particular mag unloaded so I will try that along with the other mags I ordered through midway.  Was wondering if anyone else had seen this come up and if so knew what the problem might be.

The mags themselves feed fine.  Went out yesterday with my ltr and put 500 rounds of different ammo through it.  Ran some remington thunder bolts, gold, and cci blazer with no feed issues or misfires.  I was mainly testing ammo to make sure what I had fed right.  Wish I would have watched them a little better though as one of those brands really got her dirty.  Got the rest of the stuff from midway so taking a crack at that next, also got my tech sights on (those are sweet).  Will post some pics when done as its looking pretty wicked.  I think we might need an LTR pic thread to show these beautiful trainers off 

Quote from: Gawl on February 20, 2008, 09:02:34 PM
I was mainly testing ammo to make sure what I had fed right.  Wish I would have watched them a little better though as one of those brands really got her dirty. 

That would be the Thunderbolts - yes, they're definitely nasty.

As far as the mag issue - it's not unusual for each one to have it's own quirks.  Some just need a little break-in time.  Others benefit from the WECSOG.  As you accumulate more it's a good idea to number them so you can keep up with which ones have repetitive issues that you may be able to diagnose and fix yourself.

Good luck, Sir.

Yeah I tested the other mags as well as that one unloaded...it will go in if you really slam it home, otherwise it wont budge.  Think it had something to do with the nipple on it.  As for numbering was going to do that.  Figured I would order some of those clips that hold 2 factory mags together for my 6 mags and just start with the problem mag as the first one.

I got the automatic bolt release in (thank god) as well as the extended mag release and they make a huge difference.  I will say though, I'll be happy if I never have to take that trigger housing apart again.  Putting those springs back in was not fun.

Yup, the mags do seem to require a little bit of breaking in.  It seems to help if you give them a very slight forward push when new.

I've noticed that on the forward side of the magazines, you'll see several indentations. Sometimes these have some flashing on them sticking up. It interferes with the mag dropping free; maybe on yours it's interfering with the mag going in? A few touches with a file, or a machinist's scraper will remove the flashing quickly.

Thought I would post my experience so far with building my trainer.

I started with a 10/22 from the '70s that a family member gave me.   I want to teach my 2 sons to shoot with this rifle, so I got the TAPCO adjustable stock.

The TAPCO stock went on OK - I had to drill out the hole for the take down screw a bit to get it to go in at the correct angle.  Other than that, it fits well.  The rear swivel that comes with the stock is interchangable with an AR one, only it is thick plastic.  I filed it down so my sling can clip on to it.  I will eventually replace it with a metal AR swivel.

I drilled a hole just forward of the lower rail cover on the stock, and installed a swivel (Midway item 788464) for the front.  The stock comes with a mount for a front swivel, but it is on the side of the stock and would not be good for a shooting sling.  I am using a sling I bought from Fred at my first Appleseed - works great with this setup.

I added the Tech Sights model TSR100.  Went on easy, works well.  Got the rifle sighted in at 25m in no time.

For bolt release, I did the modification where you file away the 'hump' on the bolt stop.  Easy mod - works well.

I ordered Power Custom's Hammer and Sear kit (around $45).  It just arrived, so I will be installing it this week.  Hoping it will improve the heavy trigger pull (8 lbs).

I ordered up some Eagle brand 10 round mags.  I have heard good and bad about them, but they were only $5 ea (not a big loss if I have to toss them).  I also have a bunch of Butler Creek 25 rnd mags that came with the gun - they work well but stick out too far to get in a good prone position.  I also have some factory mags, which work fine but are not as easy to get out of the gun.

I have a Volquartsen extended mag release on order from Midway.

That is about it!  The only other thing I have planned is to install a recoil buffer, which should reduce wear on the rifle.

The money I am saving on .308 has already paid for all of the parts I have bought.  The rifle shoots well, and I am looking forward to using it at the Wenatchee Appleseed in April.

-Josh

Since there is this new emphasis on using .22 caliber rifles at AS...

AND since the current AQT is scored based on 30 cal. hole sizes... (am I right on that?)

May it be resolved that there might be a niche for an AQT with scoring lines adjusted for .22 caliber hole as opposed to superimposing a 30 cal shell over a 22 cal hole to judge the 'close ones'?

Anyone know where I can find a butt extender?  I have found a couple that use the original butt plate screw however my rifle does not have that.  I have the special edition camo model that doesn't have a butt plate screw, its just a solid piece.  Also the bolt return pin seems to be loose as when not in the stock it constantly slides out and when in the stock it rattles around.  Is there something I can do to fix this other than just put some tape over the sides?

Hey Gawl,
I have some ideas for your rifle.  Give me a call.  I don't know of a bolt return pin.  I am thinking that you mean the bolt stop pin.  If this is true that is an easy fix.  Just put in a bolt damper.  I may have one here.  Are you sure about the buttplate.  Is it just covered up with the paint scheme?  I don't see Ruger redoing the entire stock just for one flavor of rifle.  I will do some research.  Give me a call.

Chris
aka Golfer7080

I bought one of those $7 plastic ones off ebay.  If it fits your rifle (width, height and curve why not just use it as the template for drilling a couple of holes to mount it to the butt stock.

As for the pins, are you talking about the plastic pins (2) that hold the trigger group in the receiver?  If so one of the other members here suggested using a center punch to "expand the two ends slightly so they fit more snugly in the receiver holes.  Just tap them on the ends a few times (trying them in the receiver holes) till they fit better.

As to the scoring question, it's no different than for .223 caliber holes. It's called the 30 caliber rule.  You look at the bullet hole.  If it's so close to the next higher scoring line that the line would have been cut by a 30 caliber bullet then you score it that way - add the extra point.