Project Appleseed

I have not yet taken the AS class, but am trying to get things set up as much as possible prior to the class.

At present  I have the scope eyepiece at 12" away from the end of the buttstock (which is already farther than I see many setups I see on the web).

Here is the (potential) problem - in my best-guess imitation of the shooting positions, especially sitting and prone, I am getting quite close to the scope - well within the eye-relief of 4" of my scope, perhaps only an inch or so away.  One problem with this is that it is a bit difficult to see properly through the optics.  The other problem is that the recoil on the 308 might want to give me an raspberry eyebrow doughnut.

Any suggestions of what optimal scope placement should be?

Awhile back I posted an article on this:

http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?topic=22817.0

thanks

2cl

Black eye from a scope ring, circle on my forhead? I am well familiar what a 338 recoil can do if the scope
is not properly aligned, the rifle stock bringing me too close and the cheek weld is too high or to low.

First question:      Do you have a proper USGI sling mounted with swivels? If you don't have a USGI sling, get one.
Second question:  Have you been taught proper use of that sling? Don't worry you will be taught!
The sling is most important and will change many things in relation to the scope and your eye location and will vary from prone,
to sitting, to standing as you are taught how to build a steady hold shooting platform.

Your goal is to achieve as perfect a sight alignment as possible. This means, that once it has been established
that your cheek weld is not too high or two low (2Clicks can't give you better advice) than to have low scope mounts
and good ones at that! 
I/we have run the gamut on crummy scope rings in the past. Solve that by buying a contiguous solid mounted pair with
a quick disconnect release that will assure you ability to maintain a battle sight zero. Thus anytime you remove
your scope for cleaning, transport or to replace with iron sights or what ever reason, your scope settings will be almost
perfectly true without much tweaking. 


However the import of your optics is for your eye (the very center of your pupil to be absolutely center of the optic lens.
Eye relief (distance of your eye from the scope tube) is determined by the elimination of tunneling or shadows and/ lack
of visual clarity so that as you set your final scope position, you can make it as good as you can to get you to the shoot.
Once you are on the line our instructors will help you personally make the final tweeks.
If you can get to a range before hand you can test out your results. 

The other advantage of this rugged cantilevered system is that it helps place your scope forward so you then have as much
picatinny rail real estate as you need to achieve  perfect positioning of your scope at a optimally low profile.
Moreover, this system can handle recoil which will protect your scope from being knocked out of alignment or damage.
Well worth the investment, if you can.

Oh, I forgot, we don;t know what you have for a rifle stock on your AR platform, whether it is an A2 or telescoping butt stock
either of which will affect your trigger finger placement which will have an effect on the position of your cheek weld as you
try to get comfortably under the rifle.  Don't worry, the guys will help you get it all right. Your goal is to become Expert as a
rifleman and you will be challenged as you make new discoveries about yourself, your rifle and your heritage.

Read that article 2 Clicks posted, there is lots more info out there.

Also check the  helpful Vortex Optics page  for scope set up:

http://www.vortexoptics.com/product/vortex-adr-cantilever-ring-mount-for-30mm-riflescope-tube-2-inch-offset

See pictures below.

Patriot Gal and I have these on our rifles and tested the system out at Camp Atterberry 400 yard range and the
scopes had been removed several times and remounted. Battle sight zeros never changed. The rifles shot true as can be.



THere are some great videos here that can help also :
  http://www.vortexoptics.com/video/mounting_a_precision_riflescope

http://www.vortexoptics.com/video/sighting_in_your_riflescope_part1

http://www.vortexoptics.com/video/sighting_in_your_riflescope_part2

Hope this helps. And congratulations on attending your first Appleseed event. You will be glad you did.
California has a great program.

Best regards,

Castle Mountain

Quote from: KnowFear on January 17, 2012, 02:13:51 PM
I have not yet taken the AS class, but am trying to get things set up as much as possible prior to the class.

At present  I have the scope eyepiece at 12" away from the end of the buttstock (which is already farther than I see many setups I see on the web).

Here is the (potential) problem - in my best-guess imitation of the shooting positions, especially sitting and prone, I am getting quite close to the scope - well within the eye-relief of 4" of my scope, perhaps only an inch or so away.  One problem with this is that it is a bit difficult to see properly through the optics.  The other problem is that the recoil on the 308 might want to give me an raspberry eyebrow doughnut.

Any suggestions of what optimal scope placement should be?

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Thanks for all the great info. 

Yes, I have the sling setup - whether or not I am using it properly remains an open question   I think I have it close to set up correctly, I can relax in prone or sitting (although it is not comfortable), and the scope just magically sits there looking at the bullseye.

I will initially be using my Marlin 60, so the first link that shows scope placement for the 10/22 will get me in the ball park.  The 10/22 is shown with the scope about to 1" forward of where mine is now.

The 308 is an FA91 HK battle rifle clone, and if all goes well, I hope to shoot it Sunday afternoon.  Scope placement for the FA91 is quite constrained by the rear sight and charge handle, but I will be able to move it forward an inch or so such that both the Marlin and the FA91 have the same buttstock to scope distance with approx same check weld geometry.

The cantilevered mount looks interesting - I could get the geometry exactly the same between the Marlin 60 and the FA91 if I put that on the Marlin.  Will have to think about how much I want to spend though, it's pricey.  Perhaps after my first class would be a better time to think about spending additional money.

Quote from: KnowFear on January 17, 2012, 05:42:33 PM
Perhaps after my first class would be a better time to think about spending additional money.

+1.  Wise words.

Here is another video that may be helpful    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COoXVpGfXQE

Castle Mountain

Quote from: KnowFear on January 17, 2012, 05:42:33 PM
Thanks for all the great info. 

Yes, I have the sling setup - whether or not I am using it properly remains an open question   I think I have it close to set up correctly, I can relax in prone or sitting (although it is not comfortable), and the scope just magically sits there looking at the bullseye.

I will initially be using my Marlin 60, so the first link that shows scope placement for the 10/22 will get me in the ball park.  The 10/22 is shown with the scope about to 1" forward of where mine is now.

The 308 is an FA91 HK battle rifle clone, and if all goes well, I hope to shoot it Sunday afternoon.  Scope placement for the FA91 is quite constrained by the rear sight and charge handle, but I will be able to move it forward an inch or so such that both the Marlin and the FA91 have the same buttstock to scope distance with approx same check weld geometry.

The cantilevered mount looks interesting - I could get the geometry exactly the same between the Marlin 60 and the FA91 if I put that on the Marlin.  Will have to think about how much I want to spend though, it's pricey.  Perhaps after my first class would be a better time to think about spending additional money.