Project Appleseed

I just saw that the CMP now has Greek HXP 30-06 back in stock.

Price is $0.50 / round, plus shipping.

10 can limit is still in place. 

CMP will review the limit when the entire order has been delivered to CMP

Just noticed that as well and put an order through. I was just coming here to let everyone else know as well, but you're a step ahead of me!

man, 50c/rd.   

J

Sad to see 30 year old ammo manufactured in another country costs so much.  Save your brass (the HXP is boxer primed/reloadable and good brass).  I can reload equivalent (or better) ammo for about 38 cents a round since my time reloading is my own (and I actually enjoy it).  Didn't HXP used to be (this time last year) about 2/3's the current price?

Just reinforces the need for a good .22 trainer to help you practice without having to burn up the good stuff.

Oh, if you don't have enough, buy it now as it will only go up.  This latest price proves it.  This removes most of the advantage of buying a CMP M1 Garand vs. the M1A - ammo wise.  The HXP was much cheaper per round than even berdan primed (non-reloadable for most of us) surplus 7.62X51.  Now some of the surplus 7.62X51 is actually cheaper.  Seems I've been seeing some posts somewhere about DAG 7.62 NATO for around $350 per thousand (35 cents a round).

Not really trying to throw a wet blanket on anything here, just pointing out that this increase in price is a really big jump.

That's what I was worried about....
Dang!
You can't even save money by buying the ones in boxes.
They're the same price... 
I guess I'll have to start reloading.
Moral of the story.  Instead of buying 1200 rds to go with your new M1; buy 500 and reloading equipment.

Quote from: AFTERMATH on March 11, 2010, 11:06:24 PM
Moral of the story.  Instead of buying 1200 rds to go with your new M1; buy 500 and reloading equipment.

Smart man. 

I had planned a trip to CMP to pick up an M1 prior to my M1a but with .308 surplus going for less than $0.40/rd, I might switch that order up.  Either way, the price isn't going to go down......

I know you hear/read all this stuff about not using civilian brass in military semiauto rifles.  I agree that for the M1A's the civilian brass is lighter (therefor thinner case walls) than military brass.  However, for the M1 (30.06) I haven't see a difference in LC, HXP, etc. brass vs. the Remington or Winchester brass when it comes to weight (or case wall thickness). 

I also do not load for maximum velocity.  Usually maximum accuracy is obtained at below maximum velocity.  If you start reloading, buy your stuff, start slow, read more than one manual, talk to experienced reloaders, load a few rounds and shoot them as you work up the best load for you rifle(s). 

Update posted today:  Most of the new CMP shipment of 30-06 is corrosive:

http://www.thecmp.org/forums/showpost.php?p=83570&postcount=11

Please read the statement. It is about Ammo that they have not put up for sale yet. It will be listed separately and ided as corrosive.

Corrosive ammo is not BAD to shoot if you do a good job of cleaning your rifle afterwards.  Quickly in most cases.  The crud left in the rifle after shooting corrosive ammo attracts moisture, actually pulls it out of the air, and the higher the humidity, the faster water/moisture collects on the dirty surfaces of your rifle.  Anywhere this residue from firing collects can/will rust, so you've got to clean it all.

I shot about 1,000 rounds of corrosive ammo through my M1A at the Feb. 2007 RBC at Ramseur.  I tore my rifle down every night and cleaned it, relubed it and put it in the case till the next day.  I did it by lantern light the first two nights then Fred said I could do it in the club house.

For the M1 Garand, to clean after firing corrosive ammo I would:
1. remove the barreled receiver from the stock and set the stock aside.
2. remove the op rod spring, bolt and op rod and lay them aside
3. take the gas plug loose and unscrew the gas lock and lay both aside
4. take the op rod catch, bullet guide, follower and follower arm out of the receiver and lay them aside
5. get a tooth brush and some suitable solvent (I use a black powder solvent from WalMart but there are others and even a bucket of hot soapy water will work - just like when cleaning a black powder rifle as residues from firing black powder is also corrosive) and scrub the outside surfaces of the small parts listed above with the solvent and brush or the hot soapy water and brush.
6. I wouldnt take the bolt apart, just scrub it good, dunk it in the hot soapy water, scrub some more and set it aside to dry
7. run patches soaked with the solvent (or hot soapy water) through the chamber and bore and through the gas cylinder
8. make sure you've scrubbed all the small parts, the parts from the receiver and the parts from the gas system and the trigger assembly
9. scrub out the inside of the receiver and set it aside to dry (I would not dunk my receiver down in a bucket of hot soap water unless I was going to disassemble the rear sight, too.) I also slop the solvent on around the gas system where it sits on the barrel to make sure I neutralize anything that may be between the barrel and gas cylinder.
10. I then spray all the parts off with carb cleaner that I have scrubbed with the solvent and set them aside to dry (this may be overkill, but it makes me feel good to see all that crud running off the parts)
11. I then wipe everything down (all those small parts) and use some type of spray lube to put oil back on the parts, inside and outside so nothing rusts
12. I clean the barrel/chamber just like I would for regular ammo - patches, brush, patches, Hoppe's #9, etc.
13. I spray the receiver and trigger group with some oil (I hate rust)
14. as I start reassembling the rifle I wipe the parts off with an oily rag to remove any excess (or spread it around more evenly)
15. I grease the parts I usually grease while putting them back on the rifle
16. I put the receiver/barrel back in the stock and install the trigger housing and lock it down

My M1 is now ready to go again.

On my M1A I did slide the gas cylinder forward while cleaning but on the M1 the front sight is on the gas cylinder so I don't take them loose once I've peened the barrel slots to tighten up the cylinder on the barrel.

Be sure you go back and inspect that rifle every day for about 3 days just to make sure you didn't miss something.

The way I look at it, now is the time to shoot corrosive ammo if you have it/can get it and save the good stuff for some time when don't have time to clean the rifle so thoroughly after shooting it.

If you haven't sat down in the floor and torn that M1 (or M1A) down into little piles of small parts enough to feel confident about getting it back together again after cleaning/lubing - shame on you.  You owe it to yourself and that rifle to learn how to take care of it.

Old Dog - I'll shoot it in my 03A3 - it's a lot easier to clean!

I know a guy that runs a garden hose down his AK to after shooting corrosive, then runs a brush and a snake with #9 and calls it good. (I poor HOT water through a funnel into the chamber of my MN.)

I fill up the bathtub with 2,3" of hot water, add some shampoo to make it soapy.  Then I just lay the whole rifle (minus stock) in the bath and let it soak for a couple hours.  I try to slosh it around when I first put it in and when I take it out.  Then I towel the oustide and boresnake it.  Thats for the mosin/mausers.

The M1 would probably require something more like old dog described.  I certainly wouldn't be opposed to corrosive, especially if I knew I was putting alot of rounds downrange in one day.

J

If you get the water hot enough it will not only help dissolve/clean up the corrosive salts it will also quickly evaporte off the metal surfaces when you remove the rifle from the hot water.  I used to clean my M60 like that in the Army.  Open it up, turn the shower on full hot wide open, extent the bipod legs and slide it back under the main shower stream when the water was "bounce across the tiles hot".  When the black crud stopped washing out I'd turn off the water, grab the handle and take it back to my room.  It was dry before I got it torn down for cleaning.  Hot water drops evaporate quicklly.  I never saw rust between the time I took it out of the water, tore it down, wiped it off/out good and then re-oiled it.  The company armorers found it pretty hard to believe I could get one that clean that quick.  For that and other reasons I became the "M60 guy" in my platoon.

Don't be afraid of corrosive ammo.  Learn to deal with it.  That stuff shoots just as good as any other 30.06 ammo.

At the .50 round (for non-corrosive) price point, I'd love to have some cheaper corrosive to shoot at the range!

I once owned a Whitworth Rifle (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitworth_rifle), shot it frequently, and only with black powder. Hot, almost boiling, water and dishwashing liquid were all I ever used to clean it. I'd swab the bore and wipe it down with CLP to protect it as a final step.

Never had any problems whatsoever. I've done the same after shooting corrosive ammo with modern rifles ever since.

Has anyone received their orders yet?  I ordered on March 4 and it has not shipped.

They told me "6 weeks" or around the beginning of May.  I wouldn't hold my breath.

I take a little stove to the range. Then boil (and I mean BOIL) some water and pour that scalding liquid into the action etc. Then follow with some Water Displacing Formula 40. wipe.

Now I have a little time before I need to do the grand wazoo cleaning we all remeber Old Dog doing at Bootcamp cerca 2007.

YMMV, but it flash dries the metal work.
Very hand for lover of Mosins. Don't do it gas guns much....

Kool

Quote from: franklinfarmer on March 17, 2010, 12:32:28 PM
They told me "6 weeks" or around the beginning of May.  I wouldn't hold my breath.

Crud, my M1 will be here before my ammo. I guess I'll have to go ahead and buy some components and work up some loads.

In my area I seem to be able to find Hornady 150 grain FMJBT's for $22 to $24 per 100 fairly easy.  There are places selling surplus/pulled FMJ .30 caliber bullets but I have not ordered any for few years.  I need to do that but haven't convinced myself yet to spend that much money at once for bullets to put away to reload later.

Went to a gunshow today to hand out Appleseed information and picked up a few Garand clips and a couple of boxes of ammo. Any idea if this stuff is corrosive or not? I figured if it was made in '75 it was probably safe, but didn't know for sure.

PS is non-corrosive, KA is probably corrosive. Check your PS brass for cracks before reloading. Korean ammo is a little dirty shooting. PS lot #  2-152 and 156 may have splits at the primer pocket.

Early arrival.  Mine arrived today.  March 30.  So, maybe you (spitstickler) will get those rounds in a timely manner after all.

Best wishes,
FF

....5 spam cans will arrive today for me too....I will order the rest later in the year when I can save some more $$$$$$$.......