How to Install the USGI Cotton Web Sling

[Newsletter]

How to Install the USGI Cotton Web Sling

By: Maximum Ordinate

The USGI cotton web sling was a simple, inexpensive wartime economy replacement for the earlier leather M1907 sling.  Made of OD green, cotton webbing with basic metal hardware, it was issued widely from 1943 onward for the M1 Garand rifle and remained in use for decades. 

If you're like me, you scroll to the end of the article to see what the finished product should look like. Let's see the sling installed correctly, then go through the steps.

This is a current production USGI cotton web sling installed on an M1 Garand, but you can install this sling on any rifle with 1.25" swivels.

This diagram from the 1951 Army manual shows the M1 Garand and web sling rigged using the same method.

Picture Credit: Departments of the Army and the Air Force.  Field Manual 23-5, U.S. Rifle Caliber .30 M1.  October 1951.

Examine your new Sling
Current production USGI slings today are commonly available in OD green or black.  Depending on who made your web sling, it'll come packaged like the ones below.

Unfold or unroll your sling.  Below are several examples.

Anatomy of the USGI Cotton Sling
The USGI web sling is made of the following parts:
•  Strap: A single length of 1¼-inch OD green cotton webbing that provides structure and support.  The feed end of the strap has a steel tip to prevent fraying.
•  Keeper: A cam-type, sliding metal keeper with pointed prongs or tabs on the latch side.  It clamps down on the webbing to set the preferred length of the sling for a shooter.
•  Hook: A metal hook shaped like a "J" located at one end of the sling. This attaches to the rear sling swivel on the buttstock.
•  Buckle:  A metal guide that allows a shooter to easily don a loop sling for maximum stability.

These parts allow quick attachment to the rifle's swivels, simple length adjustment, and practical field use without tools. The design emphasizes reliability in adverse conditions.  It also has specific orientation for the hardware to avoid snagging on objects and opening accidentally.

Install your Sling
Many of the installation instructions we've seen included with new slings are incorrect if you want to install the sling as originally designed for field shooting.  Below, find simple steps to install the sling and ensure the hardware is oriented properly.

Step 1.  Prepare the sling.
Stretch it out alongside the rifle with the hook-end pointed towards the back of the rifle.

Step 2.  Shift the Buckle.
Draw the web strap from the center of the buckle.
 

Then, then pull the slack through the buckle and slide the buckle down next to the hook.

Step 3.  Attach the Hook
Bring the hook to the rear sling swivel.

Slip the hook securely into the rear sling swivel on the buttstock.  On a new sling, this might be a tight fit.
 

Note on hook orientation: The open end of the hook faces inboard (toward the rifle). This orientation helps protect the hook from snagging on gear, clothing, branches, or obstacles during movement.

Step 4.  Thread the Strap
Extend the strap from the hook towards the front of the rifle.  Ensure there are no twists.  If needed, release the keeper.  Thread the feed end of the strap into the front sling swivel.  Properly done, the end of the strap will be sandwiched between the stock and main body of the sling.
 

Step 5.  Secure the Keeper
Slide the feed end of the strap through the top of the open keeper (rock it gently side-to-side if needed to clear the prongs.)

Pull the tabbed end to achieve the desired overall length.  Then, close the keeper firmly.  If the sling is new, this may be stiff.

Note on keeper orientation: The points/prongs (latch side) of the keeper face toward the stock. This keeps the mechanism secure and less likely to catch on clothing or branches and open accidentally. The flat side of the keeper faces outward.

Step 6.  Final Check.
Inspect the rifle and sling for the following:
•  No twists in the webbing.
•  The sling lies flat against the rifle.
•  The hook's open end faces inboard at the rear swivel.
•  The keeper points face toward the stock.
•  The entire assembly feels secure with minimal risk of snagging.

The sling is now installed exactly as designed for field shooting and ready for your next Project Appleseed rifle event!

[Smallbore (Timothy_D)]

Great images.

I'd add that installing a second J hook to the front loop makes it easier to remove the sling without losing your last adjustment.

[Fulcrum]

That's a very clear and well-written set of instructions. Very helpful!

I like to use push-button QD swivels on my rifles that have stocks with QD cup mounts, so I undo the buckle and replace the J-hook with a QD swivel, and I add another QD swivel to the adjustment loop end.

There are two things I've gone back and forth on a few times. First, at the rear, when making the loop for the J-hook, there are two potential waist do it. One option is to place the folded over and sewn fabric on the outside of the loop and between the sling and rifle as shown in these instructions. I understand that is the proper way. The other way is to put the folded over and sewn part inside the loop. When I use a QD swivel and plug the swivel into the cup mount, sometimes the extra folded fabric makes it a bit difficult. Also, I've had the swivel become disconnected from the mount a few times, and I wonder if the folded fabric can press on the push-button and release the swivel from the mount. Is there an important reason why the folded fabric must be outside the loop and not inside? This is not something I've experimented with, but I've considered switching it, and I'm wondering if there is a reason why that would be a bad idea.

The second thing is the front end of the sling. The instructions have the keeper installed so the latch side faces the stock, and the reason is that it is less likely to snag on things and open accidentally, which makes sense. However, when I set it up that way, sometimes I find the latch side of the keeper against my arm in certain positions. When it is reversed so the flat side is between the sling and the rifle, even if the keeper is against my arm, it's the flat side, which isn't uncomfortable. So that's usually how I set mine up. If you set it up the proper way, how do you deal with the keeper latch to keep it from digging into your arm?

[413guy]

Great write up and detailed images.  Thank you for sharing and posting this resource OP!

[LDB415]

VERY helpful writeup and illustrations for a new guy. Thank you for posting this. And very good and interesting follow-up questions. Looking forward to learning the responses. Great thread.

[Maximum Ordinate]

Great images.

I'd add that installing a second J hook to the front loop makes it easier to remove the sling without losing your last adjustment.

Part of the Rifleman skills we teach is to efficiently don and adjust a sling.  After you've practiced enough with the USGI sling, you won't need a perfect adjustment.  There's a range of length that's good enough to be successful putting rounds on target.  I can't imagine needing to remove a sling to preserve the adjustment.

<snip>
The other way is to put the folded over and sewn part inside the loop. When I use a QD swivel and plug the swivel into the cup mount, sometimes the extra folded fabric makes it a bit difficult. Also, I've had the swivel become disconnected from the mount a few times, and I wonder if the folded fabric can press on the push-button and release the swivel from the mount. Is there an important reason why the folded fabric must be outside the loop and not inside? This is not something I've experimented with, but I've considered switching it, and I'm wondering if there is a reason why that would be a bad idea.

This article focuses on the original design for the sling.  One time, I replaced the hook with a push button QD because that was what was on the stock.  It worked okay.  No issues with uncommanded releases of the QD.

The second thing is the front end of the sling. The instructions have the keeper installed so the latch side faces the stock, and the reason is that it is less likely to snag on things and open accidentally, which makes sense. However, when I set it up that way, sometimes I find the latch side of the keeper against my arm in certain positions. When it is reversed so the flat side is between the sling and the rifle, even if the keeper is against my arm, it's the flat side, which isn't uncomfortable. So that's usually how I set mine up. If you set it up the proper way, how do you deal with the keeper latch to keep it from digging into your arm?

Trial and error.  Get into position and move the keeper forward or aft (without changing sling length) until you find a location that doesn't bug your hand.

Great write up and detailed images.  Thank you for sharing and posting this resource OP!

You're welcome, sir.  A friend in Albuquerque prodded me to do a write-up.

[Bundt Pan]

I may try to make a clean PDF copy for my pre-event emails. These comments are great too, but keeping it simple to get folks started will be a great addition to help first timers prepare.

Great write up

[Smallbore (Timothy_D)]

"Part of the Rifleman skills we teach is to efficiently don and adjust a sling.  After you've practiced enough with the USGI sling, you won't need a perfect adjustment.  There's a range of length that's good enough to be successful putting rounds on target.  I can't imagine needing to remove a sling to preserve the adjustment."

 I mark spots on the sling for the positions. I have found it easier to make the adjustments off rifle and then clip the sling back on than finagle the sling while attached (especially with a brand new, thick cotton slings) I've had slings that were so thick that the adjuster would not close because I couldn't generate enough pressure to close it against my bicep, only attacking it off rifle worked. Also, Less chance of wandering muzzles.

[Mr. Clean]

 
The second thing is the front end of the sling. The instructions have the keeper installed so the latch side faces the stock, and the reason is that it is less likely to snag on things and open accidentally, which makes sense. However, when I set it up that way, sometimes I find the latch side of the keeper against my arm in certain positions. When it is reversed so the flat side is between the sling and the rifle, even if the keeper is against my arm, it's the flat side, which isn't uncomfortable. So that's usually how I set mine up. If you set it up the proper way, how do you deal with the keeper latch to keep it from digging into your arm?
[/quote]

I have used the keeper on the sling facing either direction, for the same reason you mention, so that the flat side would be against my hand or arm. I have found that this matters little as the keeper placement along the sling can be moved to where it is not against hand or arm. Once you have the sling length adjustment, keep that same length by pinching the sling at the front swivel (where it loops back around) and move the keeper to a convenient place to lock it down. Usually, it would end up in that triangle, the tree sides made by the sling, forearm and upper arm.