Sling attachment to a Magpul CTR or MOE stock

[Cmdr of Flying Saucer X-2]

Any suggestions on how to attach a USGI sling to a Magpul CTR stock? The is no difference between the CTR and MOE other than the friction lock forward of the stock extension lever.



From top to bottom:
- Two horizontal slots are for cheek risers.

- Hole to the right of the stock extension lever is a QD hole. They have 1.25" QDs of course. Would this hole position be too high for our AS use?

- The vertical and diagonal slots below the QD mount are 1.25" sling slots. 

- The hole at the very bottom is a lanyard hole.


What I am thinking is to install a sling stud below the lanyard hole via JB weld; same as one of the ways to attach studs to a 10/22. There is 0.25" of material from the bottom of the stock to the bottom of the lanyard hole.


Another option, which I am not too fired up about is to use a para cord loop through the lanyard hole with the para cord run through the upper/narrow slot of the swivel. This would be all flippy floppy, not a fan of that.


I appreciate any input, thanks 

[Cmdr of Flying Saucer X-2]

Thinking about it some more, I also can go the stud and lanyard hole with a metal plate or nut in the lanyard hole with machine screw threaded stud. That would be way better than the JB Weld route

[maxwell]

I'd use the QD hole. The only time you need the rear attachment point is for the hasty in standing, and if worse comes to worse you can use a loop sling instead. Most of my ARs have A1 or A2 stocks, which is another nifty way to avoid this problem .

[Monkey]

I've seen the QD hole used with a QD swivel, used somewhat effectively.

As long as the sling stays taught using the hasty sling method, shouldn't matter too much.

Some "Appleseed purists" would violently disagree with me.  To that, I say that there's was a time where we taught the hasty sling during prone instruction, because not everybody (read "most everybody) didn't have a GI sling, and we taught to what equipment the students brought.

Applying that here, as long as the sling is attached forward and aft (ie not a one point sling), the intent of the standing lesson may be met.

My $0.01 (Appleseed discount applied)

[Leadslinger66]

I have that stock and I use the QD swivel for hasty sling. Seems to work well and actually helps rotate the sling to reduce the typical twist across the chest as compared to swivels located on the bottom of the stock. Should work for lefties too.

Just double check that the QD stud engages well. Sometimes it takes a little more effort to make sure it's seated.

[Mike AKA Bandaid]

The quick detachment swivels would go on the "outside" of the stock when you have the rifle in the pocket of your shoulder. This allows you to rotate it out to facilitate changing mags, etc.

At least that's the way it was explained to me.

[BrotherPilot]

JB Weld...ew.  How about cut a short segment of mild steel to fit in the slot on the lower part of the stock, the circled part in the pic.    Drill and tap it for a longer machine thread stud like in the second pic.  That's uncle mike's kit, outfitters world:  http://outfittersworld.com/uncle-mikes-sling-swivel-stud-base-screw-kit/ 

That'd give you a really strong attach point without worrying what sort of tension you're putting on  the plastic of the stock.   My hapenny worth. 
Jay

PS  How in the world do you put pics in the post? 
J

[Cmdr of Flying Saucer X-2]

Thank you all. I'll go with the QD. I just wasn't sure if the position would have been a problem for the hasty.


BrotherPilot; for images already on the web, get the address and put it between this [ i m g ] www.pic .com [ / i m g ] with no spaces. There is also a button (insert image) below the "B" for bold when typing a reply which creates the img tags. Just click that and insert your image address.

[Cmdr of Flying Saucer X-2]

I have that stock and I use the QD swivel for hasty sling. Seems to work well and actually helps rotate the sling to reduce the typical twist across the chest as compared to swivels located on the bottom of the stock. Should work for lefties too.
Just double check that the QD stud engages well. Sometimes it takes a little more effort to make sure it's seated.

Do you know which brand QD you have? It seems that a few manufacturers measure the 1.25 at the widest part of the swivel which isn't always at the bottom of the swivel. This would prevent the sling's "J" clip from being able to fit on the swivel.

[Nashville Stage]

It seems that a few manufacturers measure the 1.25 at the widest part of the swivel which isn't always at the bottom of the swivel. This would prevent the sling's "J" clip from being able to fit on the swivel.

To get around that problem (and to eliminate the unnecessary junk from the sling), I simply remove the J-hook & replace it with the sling swivel. I do that with all of my USGI slings, except for the ones which go to rifles with permanently attached swivels.

[maxwell]

It seems that a few manufacturers measure the 1.25 at the widest part of the swivel which isn't always at the bottom of the swivel. This would prevent the sling's "J" clip from being able to fit on the swivel.

To get around that problem (and to eliminate the unnecessary junk from the sling), I simply remove the J-hook & replace it with the sling swivel. I do that with all of my USGI slings, except for the ones which go to rifles with permanently attached swivels.

Same. I've had other instructors look at me as if I'm crazy for doing that, but using the J-hook with a floppy swivel (Uncle Mike's, any QD swivel, etc) is dumb, IMNSHO. The J-hook is great for the heavy, fixed swivel on the M1/M14/M16A1-A2, but don't belong on one that rotates or flops around.

[BD]

The J hook is the noisy part of the whole rig too.  Quiet is good.  Jingle is bad.
QD swivel right on the sling.