New to me M1

[2 clicks low]

Got a call from CMP and my M1 (SA) will arrive next week.

I can use a lesson on care and feeding, I have never taken one apart nor aside from you-tube, seen it done. I don't know where to oil and where to grease. Heck I don't even know what kind of grease to use.

Also I am looking to buy an extra Gas Tube, preferable SA. I live in an evil place where the bayonet lug is outlawed. I want to buy another and cut off the lug (anyone help with that).

[Boston]

2 clicks, bring it to the shoot in Sept. I can bring mine and give you a quick once over. Will also bring you some grease in some little containers.

Don't forget the ammo! 

[George Hacker]

Also I am looking to buy an extra Gas Tube, preferable SA. I live in an evil place where the bayonet lug is outlawed. I want to buy another and cut off the lug (anyone help with that).

Does the law exempt antique rifles that have historical value?

[brianheeter]

Lots of great info here:  http://www.garandgear.com/

[2 clicks low]

2 clicks, bring it to the shoot in Sept. I can bring mine and give you a quick once over. Will also bring you some grease in some little containers.

Don't forget the ammo! 

Will do.

[2 clicks low]

Also I am looking to buy an extra Gas Tube, preferable SA. I live in an evil place where the bayonet lug is outlawed. I want to buy another and cut off the lug (anyone help with that).

Does the law exempt antique rifles that have historical value?

In the Peoples Republic of Illinois, no.  That makes it an assault rifle.

[fisherdawg]

Excellent info here:
http://www.fulton-armory.com/
The manual CMP sends will show most points to (lightly) grease.  After some use, anywhere you see shiny metal from rubbing add grease.  There's a world of excellent greases to choose from -- remember the military ran it very reliably with LubriPlate which is zinc oxide based -- that's right the stuff in old fashion sun screen!  Boston T. Party in his Gun Bible loves high temperature wheel bearing grease and I've found it's good, but tends to trap dirt somewhat and it stinks.

I've been using Tetra Grease this year and I really like it.  Give it a try, Fulton has it as does Brownells and many (better) gun shops.  The trigger group does NOT get grease -- light oil.  Again, I'm getting very good results with Tetra Lube.  I had the my M1 ('Irene' btw) out as the Demo rifle at our Aug. 10 & 11 Event in Chugiak, AK. It poured rain most of both days and the inside of my CMP hard case also got soaked.  Immediate rust! -- bolt handle, stacking swivel, hand guard metal! Those older steels need more attention than more modern ones!! Of course I cleaned it thoroughly and hit the rusty spots with Tetra Lube.  The Tetra Lube appears to have completely arrested the rust.

I also have very strong recommendations for EEZ-OX for similiar applications from my fellow instructor vaquero.  I did not have any on hand so used the Tetra. I dry fire regularly, so I am keeping an eye on it.

I highly recommend the  SLED clip, 2 round clip & 5 round clip form Fulton.  I use them all the time.  I found it worthwile, though expensive, to get 10 snap caps to practice loading for AQT's in dry fire.  That will take away any fear of M1 thumb -- which is ALWAYS due to operator error/ inattention.  Fulton also has a Dry Fire block, very very handy.

The idea of these accessories are for the M1 as a shooter, less so as a collectible. My M1 is a CMP Special in .308.  As for accuracy, it's way better than me.  Those sights are so repeatable, so useful.  That's why Patton thought so much of the rifle, in addition to 8 rounds of .30 06 goodness! With practice, I think, just my opinion, in semi auto fire M1 is at no disavantage to to M14.  Reload with the en bloc is fast!

I guess you can tell I like my U.S. Rifle Cal. .30 M1 (Garand)

[fisherdawg]

Also, rather than snap caps for reload practice you might use modified brass -- crimped in around the neck.

Excellent info here:
http://www.fulton-armory.com/
The manual CMP sends will show most points to (lightly) grease.  After some use, anywhere you see shiny metal from rubbing add grease.  There's a world of excellent greases to choose from -- remember the military ran it very reliably with LubriPlate which is zinc oxide based -- that's right the stuff in old fashion sun screen!  Boston T. Party in his Gun Bible loves high temperature wheel bearing grease and I've found it's good, but tends to trap dirt somewhat and it stinks.

I've been using Tetra Grease this year and I really like it.  Give it a try, Fulton has it as does Brownells and many (better) gun shops.  The trigger group does NOT get grease -- light oil.  Again, I'm getting very good results with Tetra Lube.  I had the my M1 ('Irene' btw) out as the Demo rifle at our Aug. 10 & 11 Event in Chugiak, AK. It poured rain most of both days and the inside of my CMP hard case also got soaked.  Immediate rust! -- bolt handle, stacking swivel, hand guard metal! Those older steels need more attention than more modern ones!! Of course I cleaned it thoroughly and hit the rusty spots with Tetra Lube.  The Tetra Lube appears to have completely arrested the rust.

I also have very strong recommendations for EEZ-OX for similiar applications from my fellow instructor vaquero.  I did not have any on hand so used the Tetra. I dry fire regularly, so I am keeping an eye on it.

I highly recommend the  SLED clip, 2 round clip & 5 round clip form Fulton.  I use them all the time.  I found it worthwile, though expensive, to get 10 snap caps to practice loading for AQT's in dry fire.  That will take away any fear of M1 thumb -- which is ALWAYS due to operator error/ inattention.  Fulton also has a Dry Fire block, very very handy.

The idea of these accessories are for the M1 as a shooter, less so as a collectible. My M1 is a CMP Special in .308.  As for accuracy, it's way better than me.  Those sights are so repeatable, so useful.  That's why Patton thought so much of the rifle, in addition to 8 rounds of .30 06 goodness! With practice, I think, just my opinion, in semi auto fire M1 is at no disavantage to to M14.  Reload with the en bloc is fast!

I guess you can tell I like my U.S. Rifle Cal. .30 M1 (Garand)

[fisherdawg]

As for "Field Strip" instructions, those you tube videos are handy.  I found 'iamjackofalltrades' very handy to watch on my iPhone for reference the first few times, but there are many good ones.  Just rember, the op rod is supposed to be bent!

Also, rather than snap caps for reload practice you might use modified brass -- crimped in around the neck.

Excellent info here:
http://www.fulton-armory.com/
The manual CMP sends will show most points to (lightly) grease.  After some use, anywhere you see shiny metal from rubbing add grease.  There's a world of excellent greases to choose from -- remember the military ran it very reliably with LubriPlate which is zinc oxide based -- that's right the stuff in old fashion sun screen!  Boston T. Party in his Gun Bible loves high temperature wheel bearing grease and I've found it's good, but tends to trap dirt somewhat and it stinks.

I've been using Tetra Grease this year and I really like it.  Give it a try, Fulton has it as does Brownells and many (better) gun shops.  The trigger group does NOT get grease -- light oil.  Again, I'm getting very good results with Tetra Lube.  I had the my M1 ('Irene' btw) out as the Demo rifle at our Aug. 10 & 11 Event in Chugiak, AK. It poured rain most of both days and the inside of my CMP hard case also got soaked.  Immediate rust! -- bolt handle, stacking swivel, hand guard metal! Those older steels need more attention than more modern ones!! Of course I cleaned it thoroughly and hit the rusty spots with Tetra Lube.  The Tetra Lube appears to have completely arrested the rust.

I also have very strong recommendations for EEZ-OX for similiar applications from my fellow instructor vaquero.  I did not have any on hand so used the Tetra. I dry fire regularly, so I am keeping an eye on it.

I highly recommend the  SLED clip, 2 round clip & 5 round clip form Fulton.  I use them all the time.  I found it worthwile, though expensive, to get 10 snap caps to practice loading for AQT's in dry fire.  That will take away any fear of M1 thumb -- which is ALWAYS due to operator error/ inattention.  Fulton also has a Dry Fire block, very very handy.

The idea of these accessories are for the M1 as a shooter, less so as a collectible. My M1 is a CMP Special in .308.  As for accuracy, it's way better than me.  Those sights are so repeatable, so useful.  That's why Patton thought so much of the rifle, in addition to 8 rounds of .30 06 goodness! With practice, I think, just my opinion, in semi auto fire M1 is at no disavantage to to M14.  Reload with the en bloc is fast!

I guess you can tell I like my U.S. Rifle Cal. .30 M1 (Garand)

[douglas34474]

CMP will include a pamphlet titled "Read this First" along with the rifle. Do just what it says, read it before you do anything.  The pamphlet tells you everything a new owner of the M1 needs to know. After you've had your rifle a while you should be able to field strip and assemble it with your eyes closed. 

As to the Gas Cylinder, check the B/S/T section of the CMP Forum.

As for grease, either Lubriplate 130A of Plastilube were USGI issue and made specifically for the M1. Both can be found at Brownells.

SLEDs are a waste of time. Load the rifle by dropping a round in the chamber, hold the slide back with the heel of the pal and depress the follower while pushing back on the op rod to release the rod. Let the op rod go forward about 1/2" then let it go home on it's own.

You can find the FM at http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/m1.htm

Have fun.

[fisherdawg]

douglas34474,
That will definitely work, is it acceptable in NRA HP Slow Fire Prone? +1 on "Read this First" +1 on eyes closed.

CMP will include a pamphlet titled "Read this First" along with the rifle. Do just what it says, read it before you do anything.  The pamphlet tells you everything a new owner of the M1 needs to know. After you've had your rifle a while you should be able to field strip and assemble it with your eyes closed. 

As to the Gas Cylinder, check the B/S/T section of the CMP Forum.

As for grease, either Lubriplate 130A of Plastilube were USGI issue and made specifically for the M1. Both can be found at Brownells.

SLEDs are a waste of time. Load the rifle by dropping a round in the chamber, hold the slide back with the heel of the pal and depress the follower while pushing back on the op rod to release the rod. Let the op rod go forward about 1/2" then let it go home on it's own.

You can find the FM at http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/m1.htm

Have fun.

[fisherdawg]

Also regarding the SLED, I'd read Fulton's FAQ on 'Slam Fire'.  Just sayin....

CMP will include a pamphlet titled "Read this First" along with the rifle. Do just what it says, read it before you do anything.  The pamphlet tells you everything a new owner of the M1 needs to know. After you've had your rifle a while you should be able to field strip and assemble it with your eyes closed. 

As to the Gas Cylinder, check the B/S/T section of the CMP Forum.

As for grease, either Lubriplate 130A of Plastilube were USGI issue and made specifically for the M1. Both can be found at Brownells.

SLEDs are a waste of time. Load the rifle by dropping a round in the chamber, hold the slide back with the heel of the pal and depress the follower while pushing back on the op rod to release the rod. Let the op rod go forward about 1/2" then let it go home on it's own.

You can find the FM at http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/m1.htm

Have fun.

[jmdavis]

You can usually find lubriplate 130A at bearing dealers. A 14oz can (which used to be 16oz) will cost about the same as a couple of small plastic containers and will basically be a lifetime supply. I believe that I paid $8 for a can back in 2008. It is still 90% full.

Here is Brownells page for it as an example...

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/lubricant-protectant-oils/14-oz-lubriplate-130-a-sku311130014-6525-15705.aspx?mc_id=12000&ch=csh&gdftrk=gdfV21820_a_7c187_a_7c7313_a_7c311130014_d_311130014_d_10192

I have also used mobil 1 synthetic grease and Phil Wood bicycle bearing grease (purchased back in the 80's). They all work.

Field stripping the M1 is the essence of simplicity. First make sure that your rear sight is all the way down. Personally I ALWAYS run it back to zero when I finish shooting or even a stage of shooting. If you do not keep it down one day you will flip the rifle over to strip it and realize that you have bent your rear sight. They used to be plentiful but are becoming more rare.

Good luck and enjoy the rifle.

[douglas34474]

Dropping a round in the chamber is the method given in the FM. For some reason I think they know a little bit about the rifle. I always use this method and have never had a "SLAM FIRE" in over 30 years. But than the FM is not trying to sell you anything! I either run military ball or reloads using mil spec primers, CCI #34.

Not sure about NRA hi power, never shot one. 

Also regarding the SLED, I'd read Fulton's FAQ on 'Slam Fire'.  Just sayin....

CMP will include a pamphlet titled "Read this First" along with the rifle. Do just what it says, read it before you do anything.  The pamphlet tells you everything a new owner of the M1 needs to know. After you've had your rifle a while you should be able to field strip and assemble it with your eyes closed. 

As to the Gas Cylinder, check the B/S/T section of the CMP Forum.

As for grease, either Lubriplate 130A of Plastilube were USGI issue and made specifically for the M1. Both can be found at Brownells.

SLEDs are a waste of time. Load the rifle by dropping a round in the chamber, hold the slide back with the heel of the pal and depress the follower while pushing back on the op rod to release the rod. Let the op rod go forward about 1/2" then let it go home on it's own.

You can find the FM at http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/m1.htm

Have fun.

[jmdavis]

douglas34474,
That will definitely work, is it acceptable in NRA HP Slow Fire Prone? +1 on "Read this First" +1 on eyes closed.

It is absolutely acceptable for both NRA and CMP to NOT use a sled or 2 round clips. The method as I will describe it works and is safe. Where you get into trouble is fully seating a round in the chamber and then dropping the bolt from locked to engaged. What you want to do is place the round on top of the follower with the bullet just entering the chamber and then do as described. Release the bolt in a controlled manner for 1/2 and inch or so and then let it close on it's own. DO NOT ease the bolt closed.

[fisherdawg]

douglas34474,
Thanks! I've one year on my M1, so I always look to learn from those who've had more experience. +1 on the FM not selling anything

Dropping a round in the chamber is the method given in the FM. For some reason I think they know a little bit about the rifle. I always use this method and have never had a "SLAM FIRE" in over 30 years. But than the FM is not trying to sell you anything! I either run military ball or reloads using mil spec primers, CCI #34.

Not sure about NRA hi power, never shot one. 

Also regarding the SLED, I'd read Fulton's FAQ on 'Slam Fire'.  Just sayin....

CMP will include a pamphlet titled "Read this First" along with the rifle. Do just what it says, read it before you do anything.  The pamphlet tells you everything a new owner of the M1 needs to know. After you've had your rifle a while you should be able to field strip and assemble it with your eyes closed. 

As to the Gas Cylinder, check the B/S/T section of the CMP Forum.

As for grease, either Lubriplate 130A of Plastilube were USGI issue and made specifically for the M1. Both can be found at Brownells.

SLEDs are a waste of time. Load the rifle by dropping a round in the chamber, hold the slide back with the heel of the pal and depress the follower while pushing back on the op rod to release the rod. Let the op rod go forward about 1/2" then let it go home on it's own.

You can find the FM at http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/m1.htm

Have fun.

[fisherdawg]

jmdavis,
Thank you for the distinction on the single load.  Seems kind of important given floating firing pin etc.  I appreciate the benefit of your knowledge & hope to be on the line with you, douglas 34474 & 2 clicks low all behing Mr. Garand's masterpiece.  Wouldn't that be fun sometime on the Appleseed trail?

douglas34474,
That will definitely work, is it acceptable in NRA HP Slow Fire Prone? +1 on "Read this First" +1 on eyes closed.

It is absolutely acceptable for both NRA and CMP to NOT use a sled or 2 round clips. The method as I will describe it works and is safe. Where you get into trouble is fully seating a round in the chamber and then dropping the bolt from locked to engaged. What you want to do is place the round on top of the follower with the bullet just entering the chamber and then do as described. Release the bolt in a controlled manner for 1/2 and inch or so and then let it close on it's own. DO NOT ease the bolt closed.

[douglas34474]

jmdavis,
Thank you for the distinction on the single load.  Seems kind of important given floating firing pin etc.

The floating firing pin is stopped from full impact on the primer by design. The "tail" of the firing pin hits the receiver bridge before the bolt is completely at battery. You will find a small firing pin hit on the primer every time you load a round. Hence the military spec for less sensitive primers for military ammo.

Even if the firing pin tail fails, if the rifle is pointed down range when you load it (as it should be, but you knew that) any slam fire is a non issue. I don't know of anyone having a slam fire loading as the FM instructs.

[hawkeye]

I've had one slam fire in 35 years and that was more than likely a high primer ,no big deal other that being that guy for the day. Learn to load with two crossed rounds and never have to keep up with a 2 round clip again. There's plenty on youtube about that. your Garand has been cold wet and muddy before , you will not hurt its feelings shooting it in the rain. Have fun with your Garand , they are like potato chips bet you buy more than one. Steve

[2 clicks low]

thanks everyone.

A buddy has 2 that need to be fully stripped & cleaned, so I'm getting a lesson tomorrow.

2cl

[2 clicks low]

I think I won the M1 lottery. Springfield sn# 277xxxx (where can I look up how old)
New wood. If I'm reading it right 65 barrel. muzzle 1, throat 3

Off to find some grease, gotta clean & lub so I can go shoot it.
KD here I come.

Thanks CMP.

[Mutti]

http://myplace.frontier.com/~aleccorapinski/id11.html

Here is where I started to find out about my piece of History. Cool stuff.

[douglas34474]

You done good! 

According to Duff's "Red Book", 272XXXX was built March 1944. Yours was likely built March or early April 1944. My Springer is number 2479xxx built January 1944.

I'll bet that if you look at the muzzle end of the bore you can still see the drilling marks left on the lands of the rifling from the making of the barrel. I picked up four rifles at the South story a coupe of years ago. They still have the tooling marks inside the barrel and show the original 80 grit sanding marks on the stocks.

Enjoy.

I think I won the M1 lottery. Springfield sn# 277xxxx (where can I look up how old)
New wood. If I'm reading it right 65 barrel. muzzle 1, throat 3

Off to find some grease, gotta clean & lub so I can go shoot it.
KD here I come.

Thanks CMP.