got my tech sights installed

[Red Alder Ranch]

I'm getting ready for a February AS shoot, and so I took my 10/22 all apart last night, and cleaned everything, changed out the bolt release for the improved version, and replaced the old beater scope with the tech sights.

I never really liked the factory sights on this, and have always felt like i was kind of a mediocre shot with open sights, so a few years back my brother loaned me a scope that I put on this, but it was not a rimfire scope, and I never really liked that either.

So I took the rifle out in back today with the new sights, and played around getting them dialed in. After some adjusting and fooling around, this is what I got at 50 feet, on a small mouth canning lid. I was kneeling behind my big truck tool box that was sitting on the ground, and then resting my elbows on the top of the box, no sling. I was trying to get it so that the 6 o clock position on the canning jar lid was resting right on top of the post, and then trying to take one shot per breath, although I don't quite understand that whole process yet.

Anyway, I got all ten on the lid, and it was much easier to use these sights than the original ones, and especially easier to adjust. I like these sights a LOT better!

[Miller]

Small caning lid....fifty feet...no sling......kneeling......

:looks at pic, looks off into space and mumbles a bit:

Yeah....
I think you'll like what you see by the end of the day on Sunday.

But an Appleseed weekend is a lot more than just shooting tiny groups.

A lot more.

[Regulator]

Where'd you get the bolt release? How difficult is it to change out? My only gripe with my 10/22 by the end of the day was the fact that the bolt didn't lock back on the last round.

[Red Alder Ranch]

This doesn't hold the bolt open after the last round, you need to buy the special part AND the special magazines that work with it to get that feature. What I got was an improved bolt release, so when the bolt IS locked open, you only have to pull it back and let it go for it to close, unlike the annoying stock release that takes fiddling with both hands to get it to release. I paid about $11 for the Volquartsen part from Brownell's and it was an easy installation. You can also just modify your stock part with a dremel.

[Miller]

That stock bolt release has been the source of most of the frustration I've seen in 10/22 shooters on the line.

[Red Alder Ranch]

That stock bolt release has been the source of most of the frustration I've seen in 10/22 shooters on the line.

Yeah, I've always hated the way that worked. I just didn't realize it was so easy to fix. I changed out the magazine release for the Volquartsen part tonight, now all I need to do is to put sling studs in this synthetic stock somehow.

[George Hacker]

That stock bolt release has been the source of most of the frustration I've seen in 10/22 shooters on the line.

Yeah, I've always hated the way that worked. I just didn't realize it was so easy to fix. I changed out the magazine release for the Volquartsen part tonight, now all I need to do is to put sling studs in this synthetic stock somehow.

There is a stud you can get that attaches via the front barrel band.  It requires a little filing/sanding of the band to install but you don't have to drill the stock.  The rear stud is more of a challenge.  I would like to know of a good way to build up material in a synthetic Ruger 10/22 stock to allow for the rear stud to be firmly attached.

ShadowMan

[Miller]

I've never messed with one of the Ruger factory synthetic stocks so bear with me....

Any reason that you can't drill the stock and epoxy a threaded insert?  Then it would be a simple matter of getting a quick detach swivel base and spinning it in with a dab of thread locker.

Or, just drill like a wood stock, squirt a bit of epoxy in the hole, and spin the stud in like normal?

[Red Alder Ranch]

Maybe I'm going overboard, but here's what my plan is. I have two wood screw threaded studs from Brownell's. For the front I was going to drill a hole, screw the stud in, and then build up some JB weld around the exposed threads on the inside of the barrel channel for good measure. For the rear, I was planning on drilling the hole, then filling the inside of the stock with expanding foam and letting it cure. Then I was going to drill out a hole in the foam the depth of the screw, and scrape it out a little with an awl or something to be a larger diameter hole in the foam than the first hole that is in the plastic. They fill that hole with JB weld, and screw the screw in before it sets up completely. I'll let you know how it goes.

[technoronin]

I used the Uncle Mike's studs made for the 10/22.  The front attaches to the barrel band and the rear I installed installed just like it was a wooden stock.  There was plenty of material to hold the rear stud on my synthetic stock.  I tried to overthink it as well, but the sling works fine and I didn't have to go to any extremes to install on a synthetic stock.

[Red Alder Ranch]

I guess I was over thinking it after all... 

I drilled holes directly into the stock with the specified drill bit, and screwed the studs right into the plastic. I put the forward one about an inch and a little bit back from the back of the band. It seems that the plastic was thick enough to hold well. If I need to, I can go back later and hit it with epoxy or JB weld.

I used TOC studs that I got from Brownell's. I put my biothane 1907 pattern sling on there and I'll try it out tomorrow if this nice weather holds.

It's all ready for AS now. Volquartsen bolt and magazine releases, Tech Sights 200, urethane bolt stop pin, and a sling.

[Regulator]

Did you have trouble getting your stock front sight off the 10-22? I beat on mine and never got it to budge!

[Miller]

The last couple of Ruger front sights I removed required a Dremel with a cut off wheel.

And a steady hand.

[Green Bean]

The last couple of Ruger front sights I removed required a Dremel with a cut off wheel.

And a steady hand.

I had to Dremel mine also. 

[Red Alder Ranch]

Did you have trouble getting your stock front sight off the 10-22? I beat on mine and never got it to budge!

I beat on mine pretty good, too, and ended up with the bronze drift slipping, breaking the old sight and cutting the side of my hand open on the now broken, jagged sight all in one smooth movement. 

Then I flipped the rifle over and tried driving it out in the opposite direction than what was recommended, and it came right out, easy as pie. 

[Regulator]

Everything I've read says to tap them out left to right, but you ended up going right to left?

[Red Alder Ranch]

Everything I've read says to tap them out left to right, but you ended up going right to left?

Yep. After trying pretty dang hard to do it the "right way"...   

[BZLuck]

Did you have trouble getting your stock front sight off the 10-22? I beat on mine and never got it to budge!

Mine was a bear too. NO DREMEL! Dremel + Firearms = Bad news!

I'll give you a couple of pointers though, as I just installed Tech-Sights on both my mine and my wife's 10/22 Carbines to get ready for our first AS. I was at my wits end until the light bulb came on...

First and most important, you NEED a solid table vice. It's just not gonna happen without one.

Second take the stock off, (you can leave the receiver attached, just tape up the pins so they don't fall out when you get down to business) and clamp your barrel in the vice (I used two wooden Home Depot paint stirrer sticks, one on each side to keep the vice from damaging the barrel, but also being able to really clamp it down nice and tight) with the sight facing to the side.

Then give it a little squirt of WD-40 where you can see the dovetail. Let it soak for a few minutes.

Get a punch. It doesn't HAVE to be a brass punch, I used a steel one. Then again I didn't care that much about the shape of the old sight.

Give it a few sissy taps until you feel confident in (A) the vice holding firm, and there is no slippage and (B) your aim and placement of the punch is true.

Once you've gotten those taps out of your system, give it a good solid WHACK or three. The sight WILL budge if you hit it with the right force in the correct spot. Once it moves even the slightest amount, then you can go back to somewhat harder sissy taps again to make it break free millimeter by millimeter. It's ALL about that first "break free" hit. You will know it when it happens.

Upon inspection I found NO discerning difference in the stock sight needing to slide off to the left or to the right. It was all about applied force. And using a vice.

Once off, installing the Tech-Sight is easy. Clean up the residual WD-40 with some alcohol, and make sure you have some Loc-Tite on hand to ensure it stays on once installed.

Good luck!

[Regulator]

I took it to a buddy's machine shop and with the right punch (aka a big brass punch, not a little one) and with the right hammer (aka a bigger one than my ball peen hammer) and the right platform it came right out. Its all in having the right tools 

[N0YZE]

Just did mine the other day as well, mine came out pretty easy. I covered it with 2-3 layers of masking tape and whacked it with a heavy hammer and steel punch (did 0 damage). Took a few solid hits, but came out easy enough.

Just a note on the barrel band adapter, mine wouldn't tighten enough to keep the barrel band snug after install, so I ended up drilling the fore end as well, but in the end I'm glad I did it that way.