10/22 Liberty Training Rifles -- Good for Appleseed AND for your budget!

[Nickle]

A good mag release fixes that, though you may have to clean some casting flashing from the factory mags.

Mine all drop free, and I use the Bell and Carson releases.

[Old Dog]

Seems there's some pictures farther back in this thread where someone (Jr. Birdman???) glued some square wood blocks to the bottom of his 10/22 mags, painted them black and now they stick down about 2" further and are both easier to remove and insert.  Page back through this thread and have a look, I've seen that somewhere and seen the mags. on the range at Ramseur.

[dwarven1]

A good mag release fixes that, though you may have to clean some casting flashing from the factory mags.

Roger is correct - on the forward side there are 4 dimples that usually have flashing around them. Scrape this flashing off and you will usually have a drop free magazine. I do that to all my mags.

[indyjoe]

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/SearchResults.aspx?site=All+Products&num=10&q=22+recoil+buffer

would anyone reccommend this kit?  anyone used it?

I've used 10/22 LTRs with that type of extended mag release and a more flat paddle (instead of the rod).  I highly prefer the paddle.  It is more comfortable for me to use.

I was impressed with putting in a recoil buffer.  It really reduced the noise of the action.  I have yet to put in that auto mag release.  I find myself dry firing during prep, so I insert a mag and just cycle the bolt.  On 2 and 8 stages, I always drop a mag after the first shot so I don't have to manually cycle the action after a mag change.  Counting shots is still ingrained in my mind from action pistol shooting courses.

[johniim]

I never thought of the one shot mag change but it makes sense thanks for the tip.

[Big Papa]

I started doing the one shot mag change at the last Appleseed and found it really helped on the time element. Before, I would forget and fire the third shot without changing mags and have a dry fire. Great practice, bad in timed shoots! I can usually count to one.

[slim]

No matter how you do it.... verify your NPOA!

[redman1]

im in the process of gettin my LTR back in order..took it to the range today with 2 AQTS and about a hundred and fifty rnds of federal ammo 40grns.ball.

it jammed up alot wouldnt eject.

what should i get?
as far as upgrade kits or something and where should i go?thanks

[DaveD]

If it isn't kicking the fired brass out (stove piping), then the federal isn't providing enough pressure to reliably cycle the action
Try a different ammo. Buy several brands and get more trigger time    testing them until you find one that will cycle reliably in you wpn.  Remember every gun is different, they don't all operate well with the same ammo.  Some will work well with the bulk box ammo, others have more expensive tastes. Mine only likes CCI Mini Mag.

usafe7ret

[Scout]

Did you make sure the bolt face, extractor and chamber were free of carbon? A good cleaning? 10/22s are great, but I have seen about 50% of them with some kind of function like this. Getting the right ammo is good, but just shooting through it is sometimes good too.

Fred once wrote about buying a bad lot of ammo and wishing he had a chance to get some more of it, because it was ready made ball and dummy. It can be aggravating, but I tell my guys on the line, don't get frustrated with it, think about how much more training you are getting for the money.

When you are firing a COF and you have two misfires or jams and you clear them and still make the COF with enough points, then you really are a candidate for Rifleman. When you fire the mag change COFs, just make sure you have a third loaded mag there in case you have some misfires.

[redman1]

ive run remington target through it some months back we both hated that stuff and now the federal im gonna try the mini mags..

happened in all my magazines..eagle,ramline,and even ruger factory 10rnd mags.

so you guys dont think maybe its a shell extracter,ejector and spring thing??

thanks for the quik reply
tom

[B9]

Did you make sure the bolt face, extractor and chamber were free of carbon? A good cleaning? 10/22s are great, but I have seen about 50% of them with some kind of function like this. Getting the right ammo is good, but just shooting through it is sometimes good too.

Fred once wrote about buying a bad lot of ammo and wishing he had a chance to get some more of it, because it was ready made ball and dummy. It can be aggravating, but I tell my guys on the line, don't get frustrated with it, think about how much more training you are getting for the money.

When you are firing a COF and you have two misfires or jams and you clear them and still make the COF with enough points, then you really are a candidate for Rifleman. When you fire the mag change COFs, just make sure you have a third loaded mag there in case you have some misfires.

I have found my best scores were from COF with several missfires or jams. When I am behind and in a hurry it seems my mind becomes clear and I can just shoot. One of my better scores was when first round jamed in one of the mags on a rapid AQT, and I had to reload a complete 10 round mag during the AQT.

[slim]

When I first started shooting my LTR I had the same problems.

Wal-Mart ammo just doesn't do the trick in some of the LTRs. I now use only the Winchester Target HP (bought at Dick's Sporting Goods for about $20) and they cycle like they were custom made for my rifle.

I use the tacticalinc.com mags and they too would not work worth a darn when I first started. After making some minor adjustments to them (they're fully adjustable) they work extremely well in both of my LTRs. Ruger factory mags have always worked pretty good too.

And lastly, as said above, carbon buildup is a problem for some LTRs. (Some work better when dirty... go figure.) Whenver I shoot mine I dab the inside of the receiver and action with a lubed patch, run the boresnake through the barrel a couple times, and then give it a couple extra drops of oil right in the action on the "rails" and manually cycle it about 20 times. Works just fine after that.

[VAshooter]

I have a couple LTR's that I use as loaners. One likes high velocity ammo and the other likes standard velocity ammo. The brand doesn't seem as important as matching the velocity to what the rifle likes.

VAshooter

[Nickle]

As to Federal ammo, it depends on which ammo.

I've had horrible results from Auto Match (325 rd box), while the 550 round box of regular stuff has been fine in my 10/22's (all 6 of them). That being said, when they get dirty enough, they start malfunctioning, and these rifles get USED a LOT. The rifles are loaners, for the most part, though 2 of them get used less (and maintained more) than the rest of them.

[Will]

One thing that seems to make a big difference and it is counter intuitive is the extractor.

If I have a 10/22 that is problematic I switch out the extractor for a Volquartsen. People say, it's a blowback it doesn't even need an extractor...True...but the extractor holding the casing tightly makes sure that the EJECTOR gets a get clean, hard hit on it- thereby helping to throw it completely clear of the gun.

It took me quite awhile to figure out how important that was....hope it saves someone else some trouble.

[Puff-TMD]

On 10/22 with ejection problems:  A decent gunsmith can stone the extractor.  This helps and, if done properly, gives good function (as, some  have said, does the extractor from Volquartsen).

Also, some ammo is just plain dirty.  For a range expedient, keep handy an old toothbrush, swabs or cleaning patches*, and a solvent/lubricant like Breakfree CLP.  When ejection problems start up, apply a few drops of CLP to the toothbrush and scrub the bolt face, extractor and the matching groove in the face of the barrel.  Wipe away the loosened grime with a swab or cleaning patch.  Place a small drop of CLP right on the extractor where it joins the bolt.  This scrubbing can be done through the ejection port without any disassembly and will normally get you through another couple hundred rounds.  Good to know, because even if your 10/22 is fine, somebody else may have this trouble.

*Real cotton cleaning patches are best.  Avoid the synthetic ones because they are usually not good at soaking up wet stuff and grime.  If you can't find anything else, just cut up an old cotton t-shirt.  As for toothbrushes, get a very plain one.  It seems that all they sell is those big bulky ones.  If you can, get the green, double-ended, "Army" toothbrushes.  Brownells and others sell them at a fairly good price, and they are very handy.

[dond]

I've had trouble before with the barrel slot for the extractor getting filled with crud. And it's hard to see inside it to make that determination.

[Bill 3]

After experiencing problems with a number of brands(in 10/22's and more specifically in my marlin 60), I have settled on CCI.  Doesn't seem to matter if it is mini mags or standard velocity stuff.  Just pick one to be consistent.

[MCKNBRD]

Toothbrushes are OK, but I've found the best method is to have a dental pick on hand and scrape the corners of the boltface that hold the rim of the round.  I also use synthetic motor oil (the castrol gunlube stuff...I just found out its their synthetic motor oil, marketed with Hoppes and sold in a little can...no more little cans for me!) on the extractor, plunger, and mainspring guide rod (above the bolt with it retracted).  I use it SPARINGLY...my 10/22s run fine fairly dry.  Makes scraping off the crap easier, too.

Anyone that is ever at an Appleseed with me, I'll gladly give a 'tips and tricks' class after the range day is through.  I work with a guy that used to build 10/22s for the Chevy Truck Challenge and has forgotten more about them than most folks will ever know, and I'm going to pick his brain dry...

[double_action]

Just thought I'd share . . .



I started with a 10/22 carbine and added:

Green Mountain barrel
Hogue stock
Tech Sights
VQ hammer and auto bolt release
Ranch mag release
Buffer

[JohnCBobcat]

How's it balance? Seems like it'd be a little muzzle-heavy, but that just reflects my preference for the CG to be closer to my body

[double_action]

It's not all that nose heavy, much less than I thought it would be. When I ordered the bull barrel I had a hard time choosing between the fluted and non-fluted because I was worried about the weight. If it was a 20" barrel it might not be so great, but at 18", I find it really comfortable and I like the balance. The balance point is a half inch forward of the take down screw.

[smle]

While I'm not really up to date on the latest gizmos for the 10/22. I do know that most bull barrels are not set up for iron sights.

So, how did you set up the front site?

It definitely looks good.

smle

[double_action]

Tech Sights makes a bull barrel adapter. It's glued on with thread locker (as per their instructions). So far so good, I've only run about 300 rounds through it, but it seems pretty solid.

[fepowered]

Looks like a close cousin to mine....



I really like the extra weight.  The regular thread locker wouldn't work for me, so I used the bushing holder style loctite which is made for larger gaps.   I have tried a couple of stocks and the Hogue is the most comfortable for me.  I was amazed at the difference the VQ hammer makes.  I built a couple of rifles this way so far. 

[ACPjunkie]

Nice Rifle.   looks like mine. I splurged when i got my rifle , I had the local 'smith pin the adapter in place, got some real odd looks the day I picked it up. shoots like a dream though.

[double_action]

I was amazed at the difference the VQ hammer makes. 

I agree, it makes a huge difference and so easy to do. Did you change the springs or use the factory ones?

[fepowered]

I agree, it makes a huge difference and so easy to do. Did you change the springs or use the factory ones?

I changed the hammer spring only.  I read somewhere about issues with the trigger spring so I left the factory spring in place. 

[double_action]

I didn't change any springs, just the hammer. I must have read the same thing as you