10/22 Liberty Training Rifles -- Good for Appleseed AND for your budget!

[Spyvie]

FWIW, I ordered Tech-Sights on a Friday afternoon and received them the following Monday. I was impressed with the very quick shipping.

[Steelheart]

Has anyone had a chance to try out one of the extended front sight posts?  I got my sights installed last week and took it out today for a rough zero session (no sling/mounts yet and table was still under a snowdrift).  Its close but I don't want to raise that front sight anymore and the rear is maxed.

Here's the sight post at Midway:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=810857
DPMS has it cheaper but it looks like it will take them longer to ship and I don't want to wait. Figures, I just received a Midway order too, guess I'll have to find some more stuff there to order...

Steelheart

I just got back from Searsboro and felt that since I had answered my own question I should share it with anyone who was wondering.

The taller front sight post does give enough adjustment.  However, after thinking about it I'd suggest getting the T100 rear sight and calling it good.  Its cheaper and you can still adjust the elevation with the front.

I also suggest (and will be ordering in the near future) one of those automatic bolt releases.  It is a real pain in the rear end trying to unlock your bolt from the rear on the firing line.  I hadn't realized this previously as I don't normally practice from a locked back bolt.

Steelheart

[dwarven1]

I'd like to just point out one thing... when folks say to LocTite the sights down...

DO IT!!!!

They may not work loose for your average range trip, but over the course of a 2 day Appleseed, ESPECIALLY if you're shooting with Nickle and doing 40-round, 4 minute (rapid fire) AQT after AQT, they WILL work loose over the course of 500 rounds.

Please do not ask me how I know this.

[MCKNBRD]

I also suggest (and will be ordering in the near future) one of those automatic bolt releases.  It is a real pain in the rear end trying to unlock your bolt from the rear on the firing line.  I hadn't realized this previously as I don't normally practice from a locked back bolt.

Steelheart

Please don't waste your money.  I'll post pics (if I can figure out how, or I can email them to you) of the only difference between the stock bolt release and the auto...you just need to cut less than 1/8" of metal off.

Its easy, and I don't want you to have to spend any money on it you don't have to!

Lemme tear my 10/22 down and get the pics.

Byrdman

[Nickle]

The info on the Bolt Release is on RimfireCentral.com forum.

[Steelheart]

I'd like to just point out one thing... when folks say to LocTite the sights down...

DO IT!!!!

They may not work loose for your average range trip, but over the course of a 2 day Appleseed, ESPECIALLY if you're shooting with Nickle and doing 40-round, 4 minute (rapid fire) AQT after AQT, they WILL work loose over the course of 500 rounds.

Please do not ask me how I know this.

I might have a real good understanding about this... I only used my LTR the first day (ran my AR the 2nd).  I got home and the front sight was loose in the case....

MCKNBRD & Nickle, I did some digging and found the info (that I had seen previously and forgotten about) on Rimfirecentral.com.  IF I screw mine up then I'll order the Vol. part.  Here's the link for anyone else who's thinking about this:
http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30867

Steelheart

[cj]

LTR report from Canon City

My LTR that I put together in the past month or so is my first rifle I've seriously tried to shoot (prior to this, I've had a plinking AR-7 variant and a lever action...barely used), so I'm NOT a serious rifle shooter and never have been.

SO, I put together my LRT, broke it in with a stack of rounds, and headed to my first Appleseed before bad habits could set in.

After a couple rounds of shooting, the front Tech-sight fell off (so THAT'S why the rear sight was all the way to the left!). Back on with a small shim and more loctite, this newbie...remember, carbine with stock trigger and barrel, and only the suggestions in this thread...managed a 197...while not getting 2 rounds off during the sitting stage.

LTR is a great learning tool, and despite what I read elsewhere (where everyone is telling people to get expensive barrels and trigger assemblies), is perfectly capable. Thanks to Funfaler and all the others who answered my questions along the way!

[dwarven1]

LTR is a great learning tool, and despite what I read elsewhere (where everyone is telling people to get expensive barrels and trigger assemblies), is perfectly capable.

Hear, hear! What he said. 

My LTR has a trigger job (by Nickle), a Weaver K7 scope, an extended mag release, an auto bolt release and a sling. That's it. About the only things I want to do to it still are to replace the takedown screw with an Allen head version (and buy a small torque wrench to tighten it with, so I can make it the same tightness each time) and get a new scope base so I can mount the scope a little farther forward (I need more eye relief to be comfortable). Barrel, springs, trigger & hammer... they're all fine the way they are.

[GMB74]

A drop of Loctite on the takedown screw is a good idea too. Use the low-strength variants (purple or blue) NOT the high-strength red or green. That way you can take it apart to clean it when needed without it loosening up during use.

[dwarven1]

Actually, I just discovered something interesting. I'd posted on rimfirecentral.com about my takedown screw loosening up in the middle of what would have been a VERY good AQT, and they mentioned that frequently the takedown screw is just a bit too long, and it hits the barrel when it's screwed in, and the constant pounding loosens it up. Just looked at one of my LTRs, and sonova#$%^& if they're not right!!

So, put it in a vise (in between a couple of pieces of wood) and took 1/16th" or so off of it. Should be interesting next time I take it out to a shoot.

If you have issues with the takedown screw loosening up, check that out next time you have it apart.

[cj]

Interesting note, Dwarven1. I had at least one crummy AQT (although somehow my target ended up with 13 holes on one stage, so I wasn't the only one!) with a loose takedown screw (I'll claim credit for all my other crummy ones though ), so I started whipping out my multitool during each prep phase and doing a tightening up. I had been considering an o-ring or teflon tape to try to hold things together a bit, but I'll need to see if it's tapping the barrel.

Any suggestions on the easiest way to check that?

[dwarven1]

Oops... thought I posted that.

Take the action out of the stock and shine a flashlight down the screwhole - it's right near where the barrel is attached to the receiver. If the screw is touching the barrel, you'll see bare metal where the bluing has rubbed off from the screw hitting it. Looked like a faint ring on mine.

It's amazing how I could find out that info so fast. One post on an internet forum and I learned something new...

[muxtek]

I don't understand what the auto bolt release solves. My 10/22 is a 1991 std carbine. I insert a mag, pull back the handle and let go. Ready to shoot. What's to automate?

[dwarven1]

Muxtek, with a the stock 10/22, when the bolt is latched open (like when the chamber flag is in and your gun is down on your shooting mat between stages), you need two hands to unlatch it. The modified bolt release allows you to simply pull back on the bolt when the bolt is open and let go - no need to manipulate the bolt release while you're doing it.

[Nishnabotna]

I only need one hand.  Trigger finger works the release, thumb works the bolt.

[didactic]

Showoff!  Realistically, most Newbies/kids don't have the hand strength and dexterity to do that.

[muxtek]

Thanks, that makes sense. It was the only accessory I bought that I wasn't totally sure what it did. I'll be retrofitting in the next week or two. All I'm waiting on is a stock.

Mux

[Nishnabotna]

Showoff!  Realistically, most Newbies/kids don't have the hand strength and dexterity to do that.

Disagree.  I've got about half the mobility in my hands that I used to, and it shouldn't be that long of a reach even for kids.  Someone just needs to show em.

[Old Dog]

I've seen a lot of folks have problems with that bolt release.  I guess it's a little tricky till you get the hang of pulling back on the bolt handle while pushing upwards on the top forward edge of the release.  Once you get the hang of it then it's no big deal.

[Rhandhali]

I just put the TSR200 sights on my Wal-Mart 22" 10/22 and added a Volquartsen extended magazine release and automatic bolt release.  Now all I'm waiting for is some swivel studs to come in and I'm ready to go.  I picked up a saddle ridge "super sling 2" to put on it when the studs get in, I've had pretty good luck with it on other rifles.

First off, who thought it would be a good idea to spraypaint the receiver?  That seems dumb to me.

Secondly does anyone have any suggestions for making the elevation adjustment on the rear sight a bit easier?  Mine seems to be very, very stiff.

[Nishnabotna]

It is stiff, but also realize that it, too, has a detent - push the dial in towards the end of the barrel.  Perhaps use the nose of a .22 HP to help you push it in.

[Flash]

Hi there!
Having attended my first Appleseed on the 19th I am somewhat stoked about leaving cook status and becoming a rifleman.  To further that goal I immediately began shopping for a 10/22 to build into an LTR - something I can afford to shoot a whole lot.  The disturbing thread(s) I found on the Internet last week indicate that Ruger is going (has gone) to a plastic trigger assembly (along with plastic barrel bands on those models that have bands).

The link that provides the most evidence (based on my limited surfing) is:
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=23311

Having seen these reports, I scampered down to Wally World last Saturday to get that 22" stainless they're selling for $238 - the picture on their website shows a stainless (i.e. silvery) trigger assembly.  Well, the trigger assembly was definitely plastic, black plastic.

In this neck of the woods (AZ), Big 5 Sports has a sale this week on 10/22's - $219.99 for the standard RB model.  I went to my local Big 5 this afternoon and their rifles (2 in stock) both had metal trigger assemblies.

If you're looking to build an LTR, and you don't like plastic, you might want to move quickly or buy used.  Wally World is into that just-in-time inventory thing, i.e. they don't renew stock until they're out/almost out of stock so they're probably not the source for an LTR these days.  A real gun shop probably still has all-metal Rugers, but it looks like they're going away quickly.

Lastly, based on what I saw, Ruger's plastic doesn't seem to be the same stuff Glock uses, they're using real plastic.

[Nishnabotna]

I wonder if only Walmart is getting the plastic rifle.  That would be pretty usual for them, to demand an even cheaper item.  Hopefully Ruger will continue to make metal rifles for the real gun shops.

[B9]

I just put the TSR200 sights on my Wal-Mart 22" 10/22 and added a Volquartsen extended magazine release and automatic bolt release.  Now all I'm waiting for is some swivel studs to come in and I'm ready to go.  I picked up a saddle ridge "super sling 2" to put on it when the studs get in, I've had pretty good luck with it on other rifles.

First off, who thought it would be a good idea to spraypaint the receiver?  That seems dumb to me.

Secondly does anyone have any suggestions for making the elevation adjustment on the rear sight a bit easier?  Mine seems to be very, very stiff.

My elevation adjustment is stiff also. After turning it a few times it seems to have gotten easier.
I striped all the silver paint from my receiver and polished it untill it looked like stainless. It looked great but I ended up repainting it (exterior only) with satin black ceramic engine paint. Looks better than the sliver and matches the trigger now.
The auto bolt release in mandatory, should be that way from the factory.

[rawhide]

I wonder if only Walmart is getting the plastic rifle.  That would be pretty usual for them, to demand an even cheaper item.  Hopefully Ruger will continue to make metal rifles for the real gun shops.

Basspro recently had a sale on the 10/22 for $159.88.  The ad showed the 20" barrel, no band model.  I went to the nearest Basspro and was told that "Ruger isn't making that model this year" and here's the replacement.  The carbine with barrel band and cheap stock.

It has a longer mag release but it is plastic.  The trigger housing is plastic.  The barrel band is plastic. Looks like plastic is the "new ruger 10/22."  All hte models Basspro had had plastic components.

Although, I did buy one because used one's are difficult to find and cost as much or more than the sale price.

[dwarven1]

Why are you getting excited over plastic barrel bands? I've taken the barrel bands off of all my LTRs - they don't do anything useful and can affect accuracy if you put a sling on them.

Now, plastic trigger assemblies is Not A Good Thing, I agree.

[jj-22]

I bought a carbine model a few days ago at Dick's Sporting Goods.  The 3 they had in the rack all had metal parts.  It's not just WalMart that has them with plastic parts.  All new 10/22s being shipped from the factory now have it.  If you hunt around, you may be able to find new old stock with the metal.

[Snake45]

Why are you getting excited over plastic barrel bands? I've taken the barrel bands off of all my LTRs - they don't do anything useful and can affect accuracy if you put a sling on them.

After reading a net article in which a guy took the band off his 10/22 and groups tightened, and then floated the barrel and groups tightened a good deal more, I tried the same thing with both my 10/22s.

After testing with several kinds of ammo, neither rifle shot more accurately with the band removed. One shot (slightly) better with the barrel full floated, the other shot best with the band in place. The lesson: Your Mileage May Vary. 

I now have the barrel floated on the one that liked that (and the band ground out to clear the barrel), and the band in place on the one that liked that.

Remember that the 10/22 has only a single action screw. On a stock rifle, the barrel's contact with the forend and the band's contact with the barrel are, essentially, the other "action screw" (or can be, if things are working properly). In working with other "single screw" rifles (ex: Remington 581, Winchester 69A), I've learned that they can be expected to deliver better accuracy with some foreend pressure providing a bit of consistent tension in the whole barrelled action.

Every gun and ammo combination is a law unto itself. You have to experiment and test to find out what works best for YOU. Don't take anyone else's word for it.

[Greg in MO]

I bought a stainless Walmart 10/22 a couple weeks ago and although the trigger group originally looked plastic to me it is actually painted/powdercoated metal, and works just fine.  A dremel with wire brush took care of the paint in the action.

A new Ruger from a gunshop had the plastic trigger group (complete with line from the mold). 

Greg

[Old Dog]

Snake45 knows what he's talking about.  Each rifle is a little different than the one right next to it in the rack.  Find out what works best for your rifle by experimenting before you start removing part and chucking them in the can.

My 10/22 still carries it's barrel band and if I do my part the groups are just larger than 1/2" at 25 yds.  Never tried it without the band because those groups are good enough.  That is only with the Remington Golden Bullets though.  Tried the Federal bulk boxes and Remington Thunderbolts but the Golden Bullets were the best.