M1A Questions

[Gunslinger]

I found a deal on a Springfield M1A for $1100 that I think I am going to buy. I have a few questions for those M1A shooters out there. What accessories do I need besides a sling, ammo, and extra mags? I am buying a sling from the RWVA store, and springfield 10 rd and 20 rd mags from Midway. Other than ammo to train with are there other things I should put on the list?

Thanks,
David

[Aromatic]

Hi David,

I would skip the Springfield mags from Midway and get some CMI mags from 44mag.  Same mags, better price. 

http://www.44mag.com/category/m1a_m14_magazines_usgi

A USGI stock (wood or synthetic) and buttstock cleaning kit from Fred are nice additions, but not needed.

I have only used surplus ammo in  mine but I hear if you use some of the heavier bullets, you may want an adjustable gas plug and Tubb op-rod spring.

[Gunslinger]

That is good to know. And it brought up another question: is any non corrosive ammo ok to shoot? Or does the cheap steel case stuff wear the rifle out faster?

[wcmartin1]

Essential accessories from this link - http://fulton-armory.com/M14-/-M1A-Accessories.aspx

Bolt Roller Greaser - part number FA-A146-M
Cleaning Kit, M14 - part number FA-A178-M
Gas Cylinder Wrench, Sadlak - part number FA-A213-M
Gas System Cleaning Drill Set, Sadlak - part number FA-A216-M

Optional - Bolt Assembly/Disassembly Tool - part number FA-A142-GM

Essential Spare Parts from this link - http://fulton-armory.com/M14-/-M1A-Parts.aspx

Ejector with Spring - part number FA-M-032
Extractor - part number FA-G-027-M
Extractor Spring w/Plunger - part number FA-G-028-M

Optional - Firing Pin - part number A-M-033

Additional FAQ here - http://fulton-armory.com/m14faqs.aspx

I fired ~2,000 rounds through my first M1A (Standard, Loaded, Stainless, Synthetic) before the soft Springfield factory extractor became unreliable and I replaced it with a USGI that hasn't failed, yet (5,000 rounds).  This rifle still holds 1.5-2.0 MOA with match ammo and will consistently ring steel at 500 meters even though the TE gauges 5.  My other Super Match holds 1.0-1.5 MOA.

Don't fire just any .308 ammo through your rifle - you need to fire an M80 ball or M852 match equivalent to prevent excessive battering of your gas system/operating rod.  These rifles need specific powder burn rate/bullet weight/gas port pressure combinations.  Most surplus ammo will work as it's comparable to M80 ball and Federal makes an M852 equivalent load as well.  If you're a reloader there's lots of good information in the attachments.

Good luck, Sir.

Edited to add an agreement to the recommendation of CMI mags from 44mag.com and the Superior Shooting Systems (Tubb) operating rod spring (both of my rifles have these CS springs - they're rated for ~500,000 cycles).

[Gunslinger]

That is alot of good stuff there wcmartin1. Thank you.

[wcmartin1]

No problem.

Come to Midland sometime and I'll show you how these rifles can consistently ring steel at 500 meters, open sighted, slung-up in prone.

Git-R-Done! 

[Old Dog]

I've had my M1A since 1978.  It was my "go to" rifle until I got my second M1 Garand and found the fit and balance "fit" me better.

Over the years I added a scope mount/scope to my rifle (early on really as I deer hunted in the brush/mountains with it).  I found out years later that for shooting multiple targets at varying ranges a good addition to a scoped rifle is a good cheekpiece on the stock to allow you to get a consistent cheekweld which is necessary if you want small groups in the same place on multiple targets with that scope (or iron sights).

I finally put mine in a GI synthetic stock (and then used some krylon camo paint to makeover the stock and handguard).

I use a GI cleaning kit to clean the rifle and to remove the gas plug/reinstall the gas plug and have had no issues (just like they taught me in the US Army over 30 years ago).

I've only had my bolt apart one time in all these years (I wanted to check the headspace when I got my new set of gages a couple of years ago.)  I use the 30.06 case method for M1A bolt disassembly and reassembly. 

The GI sling is a good thing.  Some folks like leather but for me leather is a real pain in the summer time when you get to sweating.  My sweaty arms seem to glue that leather sling to my upper arm before it gets into the right place and then I fight to get it back off again after shooting.  GI cotton or nylon web for me.

You want to make sure your rifle fits you stock good and snug.  When you close the trigger guard it should get stiff/harder to close when the rear tip of the guard gets about 3/4" to 1/2" from locking into place.  If it gets stiff/hard to move an inch or more before contact the receiver/trigger guard don't quite fit that stock and you may need to slightly modify the stock (I've not seen this on an M1A but I've seen it on M1 Garands - which lock up very similar to the M1A's).

My rilfe if pretty old so it must have GI parts on it as I've never broken a small part (broke the op rod twice many years ago with slow burning powder and heavy bullets - the reason they sell adjustable gas plugs these days).

I actually used 3n1 oil to lube my entire rifle for right at 30 years - because that's what I was taught to use in the US Army, oil, LSA, PSL, etc.  I did not start using grease till I got my M1 Garands and began using grease on them.  Now I recommend grease - oh, I use Marine grade wheel bearing grease as it has increased resistance to moisture over standard greases.

I clean my gas system with old bore brushes (30 caliber for the gas plug and piston and 45 caliber for the gas cylinder.  I almost never clean them.  Once or twice prior to the Feb. 2007 RBC at Ramseur.  During the RBC I cleaned the entire rifle (disassembly, scrubbed (with a corrosive powder/primer solvent), sprayed (carb. cleaner to remove the loose stuff from the scrubbing), sprayed (Rem-Oil to get some oil back on the metal surfaces stripped by the carb. cleaner), and then the excess oil wiped off and then greased and put back into the case for the next day).

Most folks don't recommend shooting steel cased ammo in M1A's.  The corrosive stuff I was shooting was made by S&B and had brass cases.  If you choose to shoot corrosive ammo be sure you clean it well and clean it soon after you're done shooting.  Sometimes you see no evidence of corrosive ammo being fired and sometimes the rust comes on very quickly so don't take a chance - clean it quickly and well.

If you feel the need for a bolt roller greasing tool a lot of folks use a shortened .45 acp cartridge case.

If you start reloading (some surplus ammo has boxer primers and can be reloaded but a lot of it berdan primed and therefor most folks don't try to reload it) use powders close to IMR4895, Win 748, IMR 4320, etc. as these have a burn rate that creates the correct pressures for the M1A gas system.  There are other powders as well but I'm still stuck in the 70's/80's when it comes to reloading.

Good luck with it.

There's a good forum to join called the M14 Firing Line Public Forum that is pretty much dedicated to the M1A (M14) type rifles.

[nmmi9100]

You'll get a better deal on mags from www.44mag.com rather than MidwayUSA.

Get the Checkmate Industries mags.  They're the best...used them for years in my LRB M14SA.  Springfield Armory mags are simply CMI mags with a monogrammed floorplate.

I'd suggest getting about twenty 20-rounders.  And a dead minimum of 10.

-David
Edgewood, NM

[Gunslinger]

Thanks everyone. That is a lot of help in a short amount of time. You guys rock!

[Gunslinger]

Woohoo I got my M1A! It is used but in good shape. From what I can tell doing research on the M14 Firing Line (thank you Old Dog) It is an early 90's Springfield Armory M1A with a USGI bolt marked 7790186 TRW ZJ. I will get the essentials for it, and plenty of ammo. Hope to see some of you on the trail to help me master this beauty.