identification of berdan vs. boxer to reload

[ax238]

Can someone point to a link, or give me some pics of berdan primed stuff so I know what I am working with as I start my reloading (first time) project of brass?  I have a bunch of stuff I have fired and it seems there are 2 or 3 different types of flash ports down at the bottom of this ammo (flashlight).  I am trying to determine if I need to order/buy (if available) some reloadable or unfired brass. 

[wcmartin1]

I don't have a picture, but if there isn't ONE flash hole directly in the center it's not boxer.  Berdan has TWO opposing flash holes.

[ax238]

Oh Dear.... I may not have any brass with which to start with then.  And there does not seem to be any for sale anywhere online either. 

[cannonman61]

Ax,

What caliber do you need?

I may be able to help with a bit of brass.

I can ship it.

CM61

[ax238]

I am sure everyone here has done this, saving all the brass that you have shot for future reloading.  Only to find it is berdan primed.  Disappointing to say the least.  I shall surf the web some more for some brass.  For what I have read, Winchester may be the better buy for milspec reloading? 

Cannon,  thank you for the offer.  You are very nice to offer but I will not accept handouts.  That previous post wasn't a 'me-o-my' post to bait someone.  I can pay, and will.  Let me first see if the brass is simply dried up before I buy from someone who needs it as well.  Thank you though!

Ax

[Francis Marion]

Get a berdan casing and hacksaw it in half so you can easily see the features of the berdan system.
When resizing/decapping your boxer brass, you'll get a particular tactile feedback in the handle of the ram as you pop out the boxer primer. That is, at the point in the stroke that the decapping pin dislodges the primer, the handle has a certain feel every time which you'll learn to recognize with repetition.  Berdan primers, however, give a totally different feel: the handle stops abruptly as though it's hit a wall.  Which it has- the decapping pin is pressing against the bottom of the casing.  If you keep forcing the decapping pin further, you'll damage the pin and/or punch through the casing.  The point is, though, when decapping/resizing, constantly monitor for the distinct, abrupt cessation of motion which tells you, by feel, that you've got a berdan case in the press.  Just pull the casing back out of the die, and discard. 
You will become familiar as you go with the headstamps which are always boxer, and which are always berdan.  Bore light or small flashlight are good to inspect the casing interior for the small, twin opposed flash holes of the berdan system. 
It's worth a visit to your local gun shop to see if they have some bags of boxer brass in your caliber for sale; people sometimes sell these to gun shops.
Online you can try Midway for deals on bulk once-fired brass, brand new brass a bit more expensive.  It's abundant online, you should have no trouble finding boxer. 
Edit- So much for 'abundant'; best I found after a bit of looking was a Cabela's 2-3week backorder.  Wideners has good prices, but no stock.  Midway, no stock.  Pricing ranged from $0.10 to $0.26 apiece for bulk 308.   
Pat's has some stock for $0.29 apiece,
http://www.patsreloading.com/patsrel/whatsnew.htm

[wcmartin1]

I am sure everyone here has done this, saving all the brass that you have shot for future reloading.  Only to find it is berdan primed.  Disappointing to say the least.  I shall surf the web some more for some brass.  For what I have read, Winchester may be the better buy for milspec reloading? 

Cannon,  thank you for the offer.  You are very nice to offer but I will not accept handouts.  That previous post wasn't a 'me-o-my' post to bait someone.  I can pay, and will.  Let me first see if the brass is simply dried up before I buy from someone who needs it as well.  Thank you though!

Ax

Ax,

Since you have gone to the trouble of saving it, don't trash it - sell it.  Commodity prices are high and the recyclers don't care if it's berdan primed or not.

[Old Dog]

Don't know if the prices are good or not:

http://www.gibrass.com/brass.html  $150/1000

http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=2317389&showprevnext=1    $160/1000

http://wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=6959&dir=278|282|291|390    $92/1000 (this is commercial)

all are used, supposed to be once fired.

[MrBill]

The first time I found out that some cases were Berdan primed was a broken decapping pin and bent decapping rod    DOH!

That is not the way I recommend checking.

[Oohrah]

Only two ways to decap that I know of Mr. Bill.   Hydraulic and with a little
tool that hooks into the primer from the outside.   Sizes run larger than
the boxer.   Also for example there many be more than one size for each
catagory.   Not easy to find these primers, and was shakey kneed at first
as I used an under sized primer punch to reprime (boxer is only two sizes,
large and small).   Also with Berdan primed cases there is a little center post
between the twin flash holes.   I had a difficult time not to break them using
the hook type decaper.   No experience with any caliber except British .303
Made it work, but way too much time and trouble compared to boxer cases.
Really did love that heavier military brass    The boxer was good for five
loadings before I started looking for case separation starts.   The SMLEs
have a couple o different reasons for short case life  

[MrBill]

Thanks Oohrah,

My solution was to buy a new decapping rod and pin and give the Berdan stuff for scrap.  I am now a LOT more careful and don't pick up range brass unless I saw what rifle chucked it out, and then only commercial or LC or IMI cases.


Cheers

[Nickle]

I HIGHLY suggest geting a Lee Decapping tool. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=136543

It's a stand alone item, does nothing more than remove the primer, and rarely breaks. The decapping assembly is held in by friction, and should you accidently run a Berdan primed case through it, it just needs to be reset.

Also, some heavily crimped in Boxer primers have been known to bend decapping rods and break pins. Another good reason to buy the Lee tool.

[biathlon]

Try Pats reloading in the back of Shotgun News. They usually have most everything you'll need. Re-sizing the Lake City brass is a stunt as it's tougher than woodpecker lips. You'll want the carbide dies and re-size to MINIMUM saami specs for gas guns to feed reliably. You should begin a serious aquisition of all the stuff the communists are gonna outlaw or tax into oblivion after the election. Brass, powder, primers, projectiles,,,       "It's for the children".

[ashrn03]

I decap Lake City 308, 30-06 and 5.56 GI (crimped) cases with a separate decapping rod and a mallet (the Lee decapper Nickle referenced looks like a better idea - I started doing this 30+ years ago).  After decapping, you'll need to remove the primer crimp: I use an RCBS prmer pocket swager.  It works better for me than the various primer pocket reamers.  Clean (tumble) the cases to get the crud off.  Brush the inside of the case neck with an old 38 bore brush to make expanding the case neck easier.  I resize-lube using Imperial Sizing Wax - a little goes a long way.  No problem sizing Lake City brass.  I did have trouble with some of the lubes I'd used before.  I full-length resize with standard dies.  Never had a problem with a GI or SAAMI spec chamber and it's a whole lot easier on the brass than small-base dies.  The only people I knew who had to use small base dies were guys with 'tight' match chambers on their M1A's shooting Hi-power.  I'd try the standard dies first before spending a lot of money.