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10/22 Accuracy/Reliability/Aesthetics/Ergonomics

Started by USNAVYCHIEF(Ret), September 05, 2019, 08:57:24 AM

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USNAVYCHIEF(Ret)

I'll offer this....

In the Ruger 10/22 platform....there are MANY upgrades/accessories. Out of everything I can imagine that can and has been done to these rifles only 5 things will add any accuracy (PROVIDED THE TRIGGER SQUEEZER HAS THE POTENTIAL FOR SUCH ACCURACY)

Those are and in order:

ACCURACY:

1. Sights:
The standard Ruger sighting system (rear sight on the barrel) is a very short sighting radius. Replace that with either a scope, or tech sights and you will see an accuracy increase.

2. Trigger:

Replace the trigger with a KIDD (or anything else) and your groups will shrink, that is undeniable.

3. AMMO: Cannot overlook this. No need for Lapua priced ammo, but Remington Golden Box O Bullets is not going to help the accuracy cause at all. CCI SV is reasonably priced and shoots very well.

4. Stock:

Modify/Free float or purchase a free floating, or as close to free floating as one can get with the stock 10/22 and you potentially will see an accuracy increase.

5. Barrel:

Replace the barrel and you may see an accuracy increase. IF you have the potential to shoot well. I have a standard RUGER pencil barrel that shoots MOA from the unsupported prone position with a sling. Rare, but....test the barrel before you go and spend the money on an aftermarket one.

RELIABILITY: (in no particular order)

1. Extractor: Replacing with an aftermarket extractor may help with issues with some ammo

2. Firing pin: Performing the mod (listed in Rimfire Central) to prevent firing pin hop is an excellent reliability upgrade

3. Bolt Face: Having this squared, and the headspace corrected will result in more reliability

Ergonomics/Aesthetics:

1. Aftermarket Op Rod/Charging handles: Makes life easier, looks cool

2. Bolt Buffer: Replacing with a polyurethane, or any of the rubberized/plastics available will quiet the noise some, and MAY (I doubt this) reduce felt recoil (this is a .22, LOL), which could result in better recovery on the target.

3. Bolt: Having the edges radiused does in fact help immensely with bolt removal and installation

4. Cleaning Rod hole modification: You can do a modification to the rear of the receiver to allow a cleaning rod to be pushed thru from chamber to muzzle. This is a great mod to do in my opinion.
I do not believe I have missed anything here. Hope it helps, one can save themselves a LOT of $$ by simply testing what is already on the rifle before replacing stuff (like a barrel).

Knowing one's accuracy level is a BIG deal...For Example:

Someone with say 4 MOA accuracy (that would be 1 inch at 25 yards or 4 inches at 100 yards).....cannot expect a rifle to shoot 1MOA (1/4 inch at 25 yards, or 1 inch at 100 yards) if they themselves are not capable of that accuracy.
But.....if someone with 4 MOA accuracy starts with an out of the box 10/22 and it is shooting 6 MOA.....then it only stands to reason that testing/performing some of the accuracy upgrades above will yield some measurable improvement in group sizes (MOA).



R/

Chris

pblanc

Not all  Ruger 10/22s see an accuracy improvement by free-floating the barrel.  This has been well borne out by many threads on rimfire central.  Some see an accuracy improvement, others go the other way. 

Because of the way that the Ruger 10/22 barrel mounts to the receiver using the V-block, rifles with heavy bull barrels will often need some support at the forward end of the barrel to prevent "barrel droop".  Some owners of Ruger 10/22s with tapered carbine barrels see an accuracy improvement by making sure that the barrel floats free of the stock out to the end, and then adding a thin strip of something like a bicycle inner tube as a barrel support at the forward end of the stock. 

Some 10/22 owners see a big improvement by bedding the receiver in the stock and others have not.

I have a standard 10/22 carbine model with stock barrel mounted in a Magpul Hunter X-22 stock.  The Magpul stock has a small barrel support bracket at the front of the fore-end.  This bracket can be adjusted upward and downward to increase or relieve pressure on the barrel, or it can be left out altogether.  I have found that my rifle shoots best with a moderate amount of front end barrel support.

USNAVYCHIEF(Ret)

Quote from: pblanc on October 02, 2019, 10:44:20 AM
Not all  Ruger 10/22s see an accuracy improvement by free-floating the barrel.  This has been well borne out by many threads on rimfire central.  Some see an accuracy improvement, others go the other way. 

Because of the way that the Ruger 10/22 barrel mounts to the receiver using the V-block, rifles with heavy bull barrels will often need some support at the forward end of the barrel to prevent "barrel droop".  Some owners of Ruger 10/22s with tapered carbine barrels see an accuracy improvement by making sure that the barrel floats free of the stock out to the end, and then adding a thin strip of something like a bicycle inner tube as a barrel support at the forward end of the stock. 

Some 10/22 owners see a big improvement by bedding the receiver in the stock and others have not.

I have a standard 10/22 carbine model with stock barrel mounted in a Magpul Hunter X-22 stock.  The Magpul stock has a small barrel support bracket at the front of the fore-end.  This bracket can be adjusted upward and downward to increase or relieve pressure on the barrel, or it can be left out altogether.  I have found that my rifle shoots best with a moderate amount of front end barrel support.

Agreed, and that is why I used the word "Potentially", none of the above is a guarantee, some rifles like pressure, some do not.

Key is, if one desires to squeeze the most accuracy out of their 10/22, they need to experiment.  Case in point with my stock pencil Ruger Barrel (the Unicorn) that shoots/performs as well as some of the more expensive aftermarket barrels.

Experimenting with this stuff is fun, and interesting as some aftermarket stuff may or may not work at all for an accuracy improvement.

R/
Chris

stoneknives

Of course you could just build your own.
A Brownell receiver with the picatinny mount on it and clean-out hole in the back and bull barrel is $125.
Add a Ruger BX trigger group for around $50 and a regular Ruger bolt assembly for about $35 and you've got the complete reciprocating group for 10/22.
Follow that up with the stock assembly of your choice, in this case it was a Magpul which I believe was right around $89 on sale.
A UGT shotgun front and picatinny peep rear sight assembly $22 and the front was 18$.
One last thing a cheap scope mil mil and mount from Walmart was $69 on sale.
Plus AR-15 flash hider which was rattling around in the bottom of my spares box.

If you were wanting to do more of a LTR style substitute a Blackhawk Axiom stock and order a tapered barrel with the action.
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Captain

Now that's a nice looking 10/22 stoneknives! I also need to check out the Blackhawk Axiom stock as I've seen that mentioned before (by USNAVYCHIEF(Ret) I believe).

And overcoming difficult sights and poor ammo in a 22LR makes the Rifleman's work much more difficult . . . and probably impossible for a beginner. I have always felt that the most accurate rifle/ammo is actually most beneficial to a beginner since they need feedback for changes and improvements to their fundamentals. A good arrow leaves no doubt that the problem lies with the Indian. It would seem to be experts can still get benefit from a less accurate platform because they are already solid on the fundamentals and can call their shots with confidence.
There's things that gnaw on a man worse than dyin'. - Open Range