Need advice to add sling mounts to a synthetic stock Ruger 10/22

[marksmandowntown]

What sling mounts kit do I want for my synthetic stock Ruger 10/22? I want to buy an Appleseed USGI sling for it. My rifle has the integral lasermax laser in the forward barrel bands setup.

[DrRichP]

I personally like the GrovTec Sling Swivel Studs with 1-1/4" Locking Swivels Set with Machine Screw Forend Steel Black

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/696198/grovtec-sling-swivel-studs-with-1-1-4-locking-swivels-set-with-machine-screw-forend-steel-black

[Maximum Ordinate]

MMTD,

Thanks for posting. The Ruger 10/22 polymer stock is hollow inside. You can use Uncle Mike's sling swivel kit. However, drilling into the polymer is much different than drilling into wood. Wood is much more forgiving and you will have surface contact on your stud on the full length which gives you greater strength. Polymer is not as forgiving and you only have the comparatively thin wall of the stock to work with.  If you take off too much material or the threads are sloppy, you will pull the stud right out when you use it the first time.

Lots of people have done the job successfully. I can share what worked for me. 

Start by deciding where you want your sling to be mounted. Get down in the prone position and decide where your hand is comfortable and you still have a pronounced V with your support arm.  Mark that spot on your stock and and place the sling stud in front of it.

Remove the action from stock by using the takedown screw. Then, confirm exactly where you're going to drill your forward hole.

The instructions with the Uncle Mike's kit is going to have you choose a drill bit the diameter of the stud shaft, not the threads.  I recommend you start with a much smaller drill bit. Drill a pilot hole and get a feel for the plastic. Make sure that your drill bits are very sharp and drill slowly. If you drill too fast, the friction will cause the plastic to get soft.

Step up sizes and open the hole up  to the diameter you need.  Then, using an appropriate sized thread tap, tap the hole.  Run the stud in, but don't bottom it out.   It should be snug.  Don't gorilla down on the stud.  The stock is hollow and the wall isn't super thick.

Remove the stud.  Coat the threads inside the hole with plastic safe epoxy or double bubble.  Insert the stud to full depth and proper alignment. Let cure until completely dry.

Repeat for the rear stud.

I hope this helps and you can avoid some of the mistakes I have made.

[PHenry]

JB Weld is yer best friend here. 

[maxwell]

I like the GrovTec set with the machine screw on the foreend, too. For what it's worth, my brother-in-law pulled his studs out of a Ruger polymer stock, and even JB Weld wouldn't hold them back in after the holes were elongated. He ended up following my example and getting a Hogue nylon stock, which has factory studs. Might not work with the OP's laser setup, though.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/665112/hogue-nylon-overmolded-rifle-stock-ruger-10-22-920-barrel-channel-synthetic-black

[fotojake]

I have a 10/22 Take Down that I didn't really feel like drilling into the stock to attach swivels.

So, what I did was order this: www.vikingtactics.com/product-p/vtac-mk3.htm (Velcro butt-stock adapter) and then a set of Uncle Mike's swivels, one of which I attached to the barrel band. I added a piece of bicycle tire inner-tube to act as a shim for the barrel band to really keep it in place when I used the USGI sling that I got from Tech-sights (along with TSR100 iron sights). I got the 1" wide cotton webbing sling to use with the swivels that I got off of amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H6NJ7I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was more than adequate as I just got done shooting Rifleman at the recent Flagstaff event.

Good luck!

[goodoldfriend]

I used a Mike's sling mount that I was able to fit on my front barrel band screw and nut on the bottom. I know that is not ideal since it puts pressure on the top of the barrel, but it is a Ruger 10/22 not a highly tuned target rimfire monster.

Here is a kit that will give you the idea...
https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Mikes-Detachable-Carbines-Swivels/dp/B000H6NJ7I
The problem with that kit is it has 1 inch loops. If memory serves me correct I also had to get this...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IOANI

I had to file and sand the barrel band and the center of my stud that attached there.

I did what Rusty said and carefully drilled the rear hole.

They have been on the rifle for over 3 years with no problems.

You might also want to look at the forums dedicated to rimfire firearms. Search for rimfire central and you will find it. They are some of the most helpful people I have ever met on the 'net. Probably second only to those here at the Project Appleseed forums.

Let us know how you do with it.

[colonial shooter]

In WY we have been trying to use a bicycle chain link (side pieces ). Remove the screw from the barrel band and insert the link and replace the screw. then attach an Uncle Mikes 1 1/4 sling swivel to it. Works like a charm. That is the front, only way to fix the rear is to fill with epoxy and drill a swivel into it. Just my 2 cents worth.

[9mm4545]

In WY we have been trying to use a bicycle chain link (side pieces ). Remove the screw from the barrel band and insert the link and replace the screw. then attach an Uncle Mikes 1 1/4 sling swivel to it. Works like a charm. That is the front, only way to fix the rear is to fill with epoxy and drill a swivel into it. Just my 2 cents worth.

Pictures?

[colonial shooter]

I will check and see if we have pics.