Setting up a scoped 10-22

[douglas34474]

I've seen a lot of people put a scope on their 10-22. Most scopes are set to far back to allow a proper 'turkey neck' and being able to get proper eye relief. Also the OEM stock does not allow you to use a proper cheek weld, rather it requires a 'jaw weld' to get a proper view through the scope.

With this set up I can sling up, get into position with a good turkey neck and cheek weld with my eyes closed and when I open my eyes I'm looking right down the center of the scope with a sharp scope ring edge.

This rig uses an EGW cantilevered scope rail, Leupold 2x7-28 scope with low rings and a Triple K 3/4" comb riser.

[henschman]

Looks good -- you solved the problems well.  On mine, I have a smaller, shorter scope, so I can get proper eye relief with the factory picatinny mount by putting the scope about as far forward as it will go.  This also lets me keep it very low in low rings.  Just a layer of pipe insulation held on with vet wrap gives me great cheek weld.

[kenjo]

The strap on cheek piece is not only necessary for proper eye/sight alignment with a scope, but with tech sights as well. I made a cheek pad with materials from the fabric store and hardware store; heavy duty, waterproof nylon material, nylon webbing, velcro and plastic buckles. The hardware store provided the pipe insulation--for me, one thickness provides just the right height for a perfect sight picture.
It wasn't very expensive for the materials. The time factor mostly involved learning how to use my mother's old sewing machine 




Hogue stock.

Modified a commercial cheek piece to provide a true cheek weld (rather than thumb weld, jaw weld, etc) on my M-1:

[jmdavis]

Guys, not everyone needs or wants a cheekpiece. I use one on some rifles, but not most. If someone does he should use one. But again, not everyone does. For me a reasonable length of pull is far more important for aperature sights or scopes than a cheek piece.

[douglas34474]

9 times out of 10 I see people mount the scope using the OEM rail provided by Ruger. They have to move their head back and forth to find a proper eye relief for the scope of their choosing. Then they wonder why they get flyers. The OEM setup may work for shooting off a bench but is sorely lacking for the style of shooting Appleseed teaches, IMHO.

If you can mount your scope, sling up and get into position and you're looking right down the center of the scope with out moving your head then don't use a comb riser. However, if you have to move your head around and rest your jaw on the stock rather than you cheek bone than IMHO you need a riser.

If you can't "turkey neck" and get a clear, sharp outer edge of the scope picture than you don't have a proper eye relief for your scope. I've watched too many shooters fight their rifles to try to get good shot placement. If your setup works for you, than don't change it; why would you? If you have to fight finding a good head placement behind your scope, either up or down, front or back, than consider doing the mods suggested in this thread. Just don't assume that the maker has sold you a setup that works for the way Appleseed teaches you how to shoot.

[Caliper]

I really like the EGW rails.  Have two on my 597's.  Honestly, with the factory stock and scope I still kinda like a 1" buttpad on the back of the stock for a good turkey neck.  I have a long/flexible neck though. 

For those who like a cheek riser, search for an "accu-riser" it is a good product that finally got me a solid cheek weld.  I put some spacers under the rear so the new comb is level and doesn't affect my cheek weld as my head position moves between sitting and standing positions. 

[olefido]

I got the 20 MOA EGW rail from Midway for my 10/22 on the advice of dond.

[RODGE]

I was once told that your rifle is a tool and for that tool to best do the intended job you must first make it work for you.  Or 'fit' you.  In this photo is my original Ruger 1022.  I cut off 2" from the front end of the stock to remove the barrel band, (floated the barrel).  I then cut off 3/4" from the butt of the stock, (to get rid of the slick plastic butt plate), and then added 2 3/4" back on to the stock to get the proper length of pull.  I then imbedded 2 treaded inserts into the top of the stock where your cheek bone belongs and cut, carved and sanded the adjustable cheek piece that you see in the photo.  This Ruger will shoot 1" squares all day long if you do your part.  When I drop from standing to sitting or standing to prone and look down range through the scope, the target is there, right where you want it.  Perfect eye relief and cheek weld every time.  The rifle fits me.