Ruger 10/22 spares - what to carry ? where to obtain?

[Kosciusko]

Hi,

searched the rifle knowledge bank, didn't see any mention of this

what Ruger 10/22 spares would you recommend carrying along to an Appleseed?

where is the best place to get them ?

I'm thinking some spare trigger group pins,   a set of springs, extractor, ejector, stock take-down screw?

The parts where, if you lose/break it, you're done for the day.

BTW, while attempting to swap out a factory bolt release for a Volquartsen speed release, I lost one of the small trigger group  pins.  Hence this query.

[Charles McKinley]

Can the trigger group pins be replace with an appropriant roll pin so they just don't fall out?  I was also thinking a small bit of blu-goo (RTV silicon) to keep them in place.

Alot of the small parts can be ordered from Ruger.

[2 clicks low]

The only parts that I would bother with is an extractor with it's spring & plunger. Most Ruger parts just don't break. However extractors do get pulled out with chamber flags.

And no, do not use BLU GOO in your action, just asking for trouble. And no to the roll pins Most are pivits and the ones that aren't need to come out easly for cleaning.

Parts can be ordered from Brownells, Ruger, Midwayusa or Gunpartscorp.

2cl

[Wy Knott]

One of the first times we cleaned my used rifle after it was bought we noticed it was missing is buffer pin. My dad ordered a Tougher Buffer of the internet. They are supposedly better than normal metal buffer pins and, because they are made of rubber they fit very tightly and don't fall out! I've used it for about 10 AS and it is only showing slight wear. I usually don't take apart my trigger group at AS so at least for me I'm not to worried about having replacement parts. Hope this helps!
   Anna 

[Nero]

+1 no blue goop.  One of my student's 10/22s was seriously gunked up by being sloppy with Loctite on the sight mounting screws.  Took several cleanings of the action and bolt with nasty solvents to get it out of there, and meanwhile it was a jam-o-matic.   

The other thing I'd mention is that if you are using an aftermarket mag release that's made of plastic, carry a spare or the original as well.  I've seen one of the softer plastic ones get so worn after a weekend of frantic mag changes that it bound up the action and there was no replacement available.   

[dwarven1]

I've never actually seen a 10/22 fail at a shoot. Unless you count my wearing out my firing pin (which took 26 years and probably 30K rounds to do!), that is.

Now, parts to sell BEFORE the shoot? That's different. I'd start the list with an extended mag release, an auto bolt release and a Volquartsen Exact-Edge Extractor. I'm not totally sanguine about the Volquartsen replacement hammer kits, though - at least not for the new polymer trigger groups. My admittedly limited experience (three kits, three rifles... three rifles that wouldn't RESET the !@#$^@% triggers!!!) has NOT been good.

Other than that... Um. Spare magazines?

[Edheler]

At the last two Appleseeds I went to I replaced student stock Ruger bolt releases with Volquartsen Auto Bolt releases. The modification takes about 5 minutes and I just charge my raw cost. If you're handy with a dremel you can just modify the stock one but I am just not that confident with my abilities.

Having some spare pins isn't a bad idea but I just make sure I don't lose any. You can replace the bolt release without pulling the pins all of the way out of the assembly.

The parts I have been carrying around in my range bag are: USGI Web Slings, Uncle Mike's 1.25" Swivel Sets, Uncle Mike's 115b Stud Sets, Volquartsen Auto Bolt Releases and a spare Volquartsen Recoil Buffer. I would carry a set of Tech Sights but you really need a vise to get the front sight out and I am not going to carry a vise with me.

I plan on adding a couple of extractors to the set of parts, but I need to learn how to do it before I would even try that sort of repair at an Appleseed. I am mildly intimidated by disassembling the bolt assembly. It would seem that carrying a spare mag release would be a good idea too for the reasons that Nero mentions.

It seems that the stock Ruger trigger was vastly improved between my first 10/22 purchase and my loaner purchase a month ago. I haven't seen any 2012 Ruger 10/22 triggers where I would want to swap out the hammer or sear immediately.

[Edheler]

I didn't mean to ignore the second part of the question. I buy all of my parts from MidwayUSA and do so in reasonable quantities to make the shipping charges as small as possible.

[Kosciusko]

save the old Ruger bolt releases, they can be modded w/ a file or dremel

I trade shooters a modded release for their factory one




removing the stock front sight is easy:

put the rifle on a flat surface, floor, table, counter, etc.

either have someone hold it flat for you, or put it flat between your knees

put the barrel on a paperback book to support it, leave the front 2 inches over the edge

use a punch (brass is best, but I'm never re-installing the factory sight, so I'll use steel in a pinch)  drive the front sight out left to right (as seen from the rear)

if it's been in there a long time, you might have to whack it pretty hard

replace w/ tech sights




they've been making 10/22s for 48 years now, quality of materials and workmanship goes down, price goes up.  trigger groups and barrel bands that used to be steel are now plastic



re: triggers--from my experience,  fall into 3 groups,  by serial number

pre-100 series, straight SNs 5 and 6 digit

excellent, the way ALL Ruger 10/22 triggers SHOULD be from the FACTORY,don't mess with them  - as a bonus, these rifles  have nice  Walnut  stocks.  I have found 3 of them at pawn shops/estate sales.  People usually don't know what they have, I recommend buying one if you can get your hands on one.

100 series--all of mine have been nice, almost as good as the pre-100 rifles-- leave these alone as well, steel barrel bands and trigger groups

200/300 series -- usually crap, like dragging a concrete block over a pile of concrete blocks using a log chain -VQ or Power Custom springs will help get them 1/2 way to a decent trigger for very little money.  To get the trigger to approach  the level of a pre-100 series, it's time to replace hammer/trigger/sear.  I'm not sure if the plastic trigger group contributes to this as well.  I wouldn't be surprised.


here's a list I found at:

http://www.thesurvivalistblog.net/rugar-1022-parts-stocks-and-accessories/


Recommended Parts

A basic spare parts kit for the Ruger 10/22, should include; firing pin, firing pin rebound spring, extractor, extractor plunger, extractor spring, hammer spring, sear spring, magazine latch, recoil spring assembly, ejector, sear, magazine latch plunger spring, front and rear sight. Other parts can be included expanding on the basic list, but those listed are the ones which will most likely be needed.




The 10/22 is frustrating to deal with.  If the S&W M&P 15-22s hold up to regular Appleseed use, I'd go with them. 

base Ruger:  call it $200

tech sights $70

springs   $20

QD mount points $5

total $295

instructor pricing on a S&W was  $360,and you get the advantage of it fitting shooters from 6 to 60.  When the new instructor pricing sheet comes out,    I'm buying one to torture test.  Loan it out at every shoot and see if they can break it.

k

[Edheler]

I trade shooters a modded release for their factory one

Good idea, since I have two lying around at home.

removing the stock front sight is easy:

The stock front sight seems to have a small burr of metal on the bottom of recent serial numbered Ruger 10/22s which makes getting the sight off a real pain in the behind.

200/300 series -- usually crap, like dragging a concrete block over a pile of concrete blocks using a log chain -VQ or Power Custom springs will help get them 1/2 way to a decent trigger for very little money.  To get the trigger to approach  the level of a pre-100 series, it's time to replace hammer/trigger/sear.  I'm not sure if the plastic trigger group contributes to this as well.  I wouldn't be surprised.

Next time you see a stock 10/22 with an unmodified trigger group with a 359-75xxx or later serial number try out the trigger. Ruger has made a change somewhere between 352-xxxxx and now and the stock trigger has been significantly improved. I am going to start keeping track of serial numbers to try and figure out when it changed.

[Nero]

The stock front sight seems to have a small burr of metal on the bottom of recent serial numbered Ruger 10/22s which makes getting the sight off a real pain in the behind.

After bending one of my brass punches on the front sight of an LTR Ruger purchased last October, I gave up and chopped it out with a Dremel.  Another one purchased at the same time may also be that tight, but I've got a scope on it anyway.  OTOH, the front sight on a compact 10/22 purchased at the same time popped right out.

[oladcock]

I've never actually seen a 10/22 fail at a shoot. Unless you count my wearing out my firing pin (which took 26 years and probably 30K rounds to do!), that is.

Now, parts to sell BEFORE the shoot? That's different. I'd start the list with an extended mag release, an auto bolt release and a Volquartsen Exact-Edge Extractor. I'm not totally sanguine about the Volquartsen replacement hammer kits, though - at least not for the new polymer trigger groups. My admittedly limited experience (three kits, three rifles... three rifles that wouldn't RESET the !@#$^@% triggers!!!) has NOT been good.

Other than that... Um. Spare magazines?

I've never seen one fail either. I do keep barrel bolts and "V" blocks because I've busted them ("V" blocks)while cleaning and checking tightness. Got spare stock bolts because the heads strip out easy. Extractors, mag releases, etc..That's what spare loaners are for, never seen them fail however...O.L.

[mac66]

I don't recall seeing anyone lose or break a 10/22 part at an Appleseed. I have however swapped out problem rifles with loaners. That seems to be the quickest and easiest way to solve a problem.

[Edheler]

I don't recall seeing anyone lose or break a 10/22 part at an Appleseed. I have however swapped out problem rifles with loaners. That seems to be the quickest and easiest way to solve a problem.

Hi mac! Are you going to be in Muskegon in August? It would be great to see you again!

In my (limited) experience so far on the trail it seems like the most common problem by far with Ruger 10/22's and Marlin 795's are that they are bone dry on Sunday. I have lost track of how many that I have liberally applied gun oil to solve stove-piping issues. I really need to find an oil with a similar viscosity to the oil that came in my first guns cleaning kit as I am running out! (It was a Kleen Bore cleaning kit.)

[zamboni_driver]

We had a loaner 10/22 have problems this weekend where the bolt was getting stuck open.  The replacement bolt buffer was a white plastic and had become chewed up enough that it was hanging up the bolt.  It was so chewed up that we cut it out.  Put in a stock metal buffer and the rifle was fine.

[mac66]

I don't recall seeing anyone lose or break a 10/22 part at an Appleseed. I have however swapped out problem rifles with loaners. That seems to be the quickest and easiest way to solve a problem.

Hi mac! Are you going to be in Muskegon in August? It would be great to see you again!

In my (limited) experience so far on the trail it seems like the most common problem by far with Ruger 10/22's and Marlin 795's are that they are bone dry on Sunday. I have lost track of how many that I have liberally applied gun oil to solve stove-piping issues. I really need to find an oil with a similar viscosity to the oil that came in my first guns cleaning kit as I am running out! (It was a Kleen Bore cleaning kit.)

Hi Ed,  I may be in Muskegon but it is hard to say at this point. Good point with the lube. I have found that Breakfree CLP is good for everything. It Cleans, Lubricates and Protects (CLP)  It is the only thing I use for the last 20 years so. I even use it on bicycle chains, squeaky hinges, everything.

[Kosciusko]

re:  CLP   know of a source on-line that sells 1 gallon jugs for $31

is that a good price?  need any?

[martin]

I usually keep all the springs and pins in my parts box,,,,you can get all that stuff from Brownells or Midway
Brownells has almost every part but action listed for sale in their catalog ,,,,don't forget action screws and barrel retaining screws,,,I've replaced both,,,,,,
Martin

[mac66]

re:  CLP   know of a source on-line that sells 1 gallon jugs for $31

is that a good price?  need any?

I would be interested

[PHenry]

I'm not very prepared in this regard. Like most humans, I often fail to consider an issue until it rears its ugly head. My two loaners have seen more rounds than I could ever count and yet zero fails to date. Now watch - they'll both go south at next event. 

The greatest source of troubles I see are dirty chamber, dry action, wet action that attracted debris, and modifications. Box stock, well cleaned, touch of moly grease on shiny spots, and dependable ammo - good to go. TANSTAAFL!

Then agin, maybe Lady Liberty just smiles upon LTRs. 

In Liberty,
PHenry

[Kosciusko]

re:  CLP   know of a source on-line that sells 1 gallon jugs for $31

is that a good price?  need any?

I would be interested

This guy has been selling them since 2010


http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?195229-WTS-BreakFree-CLP-1-Gallon-Jugs-31&highlight=break-free

He's legit, or his post would have been locked and his ID banned.    gunboards doesn't  tolerate scammers