need help with 10/22 mags

[Kodo2003]

I have a problem with my 10/22 mags they get stuck and do not feed. I took them apart and cleaned them set the spring and it worked for about 17 rounds then started again. Any advise?

Kodo2003

[Francis Marion]

Exact nature of the problem is?... paint a picture.
Rounds don't feed?  or the rifle doesn't cycle properly? need more details to zero in on a fix. 
Might not be the mag.  Brand of ammo, mag? Are there any ammo, mags that do work?   
Condition of rifle?  Did it ever work properly?

[Kodo2003]

Standard 10/22 mag. I have used about 6 types of ammo all the same out come. The mag stops short of the feed lips. I put 8 turns in the spring and have nice feel on it. But part way through the 2nd reload the mag stops moving the next round into the feed area of the mag. Its not the rifle, I used a new mag and it works as it should.

Thank you all for your input and help!

Kodo2003

[Old Dog]

While I admit to an uncontrolled need to tear every rifle, pistol and shotgun down to the smallest part, look it over, clean it up, lube it and put it back together, I have never surrendered to that need when it comes to 10/22 magazines.  I turn mine upside down, stick the little red tube on the brake cleaner nozzle, spray till the crud stops coming out, let it dry and then spray some rem-oil in it.  No issues so far.  One of my mags came with the (used rifle) and the other was bought a couple/three years ago when I bought the rifle.

Might not work for others, but its working for me.

[Kodo2003]

Standard auto brake cleaner?

[Old Dog]

Yeah, so far I've not had any damage to any plastic parts from the spray brake cleaner.

Carb. cleaner will melt, or soften some plastics, so I try to stay away from the carb. cleaner unless its only getting on metal.

[Kodo2003]

I will give that a try in the morning. Thanks


Kodo2003

[mycrstuff]

The problem is not with your mags but it is your bolt. If your clean your rifle from the muzzle all of the grime will go into the bolt unless you remove it first. The firing pin will then stick slightly forward and cause the round to be picked up at an angle. This will cause a FTF (failure to feed) and jam the rifle. I had this problem for about a year and even had the guys who worked at the range try to fix it. Nothing worked until I finally disassembled every single part of the rifle. When I disassembled the bolt I found so much crud jammed in there that the firing pin would not move. Just spraying the bolt assembly with gun scrubber or brake cleaner would not get rid of all of the crud. The bolt had to be completely disassembled and each individual piece cleaned. The rifle has worked fine ever since. If you don't know how to completely disassemble or put back together your rifle then get the AGI 10/22 video. Midway has them or you can order from AGI direct.

Regarding using brake cleaner on your rifle don't use it on the 10/22 receiver. The receiver is painted, not blued and the paint will melt. It will also dissolve the finish on the stock if you get any on it. Ask me how I know. You can use brake cleaner on any blued or parkerized part. I use it on all of my rifles except for the 10/22 due to the paint.

Another trick to cleaning the 10/22 is after you are done cleaning the rifle run a patch with Kroil Oil through the barrel. The wetter you get it the better. The next day run a brush through the barrel and the lead will come out in clumps. Kroils is a penetrating oil and gets up under the lead to loosen it. Unfortunately it does not remove copper. If you are using coated bullets then you will still need to use a copper solvent.

Hope this helps you.

Dan

[FiremanBill]

Kodo -

I had the same "failure to feed" with my 10/22 with less than 200 rounds through it.

The firing pin got stuck, slightly extended from the fce of the bolt.  Upon disassembly at seller's shop - using hammer and punch, we found the firing pin spring jammed itself in along the side of the pin, Since the pin would not retract, it prevented the extractor claw from getting the proper grip on the round and it wasn't getting fed.

When I disassembled the bolt, I found crusted up receiver paint chips as well.  Had to scrape it out with a knife.  I am stripping ruger's paint wherever practical.

Ruger was good to me, and sent new pin and spring.  I googled for this website for pretty good explanation with pix of teardown and re-assembly.

http://ruger22.com/
(First time I had ever torn down a bolt.  A great site.)

FB 

Works like a champ now!

[Junior Birdman]

  You get 8 turns on a mag spring?     Holy cow, I get 2 1/2 and it works just fine!  I don't think I could get more than 3 if I tried anyway.   

   Appleseeds bring out the failures. Dust and grit and usually folks aren't exactly religious about cleaning things so they show up pretty crudded up. Bolts get enough crud on the face to change the headspace and it will not fire or worse, fire without being fully seated. Mags get grit that keeps the round from going all the way to the feed lips. I try to keep mine as dry as possible, no lube. After all, it's all plastic on plastic. The brake cleaner should do the trick as it will flush all the crud and then evaporate.

   One thing we learn from the events....clean your equipment! 

   

[Mark Davis]

Some 10-22 mags work better after removing a small amout of plastic on the lip of the rotor.
Disassemble the magazine. (Easy)
The rotor of the mag has a raised lip that the first round lays against. On gritty dirty mags there is sometimes a wire edge of plastic on the outer edge of the lip remove the wire edge with a file or sandpaper. Taking off a small amount extra will not hurt.
Clean all the parts and re-assemble. (difficult)
If anybody has figured out an easy way to put 10-22 mags back together, let all of us know. We could use some of our perservence where it is more effictive.

[mycrstuff]

Here is a link to 10/22 mag disassembly website. I have never disassembled mine so I don't know how much this will help you.

www.heypete.com/pete/shooting/rugermag.html

Dan

[Junior Birdman]

   OK, I see now. Y'all are turning the thing 8 FLATS! Not 8 turns.  I turn mine 2 1/2 turns, that way if it slips a flat or so, it's no big deal. I hold the "axle" in place with a driver, mag on top of that, and with everything in place I rotate the MAGAZINE CCW 2 1/2 turns while holding the nut stationary. Then I sorta lift the mag slightly as I push the nut down into place. Once in place, tighten the axle.  (I'm not sure that 8 flats is enough spring pressure to overcome the usual grit you see at an Appleseed, and I think.....it's been years now.....that when I tore down an original mag I counted the turns, carefully, and I seem to remember 2 1/2, which is why I do it that way now)
  At any rate, tearing down the mag and putting it back together builds character. And Lord knows we need more of those around here! 

[PJEVANS]

Great link Dan, loaded with much useful information

One of my 10-22 mags crudded up after years of neglect at RBC.  I sprayed it out with gun scrubber and all is well...

I have always been taught NEVER to put oil into any magazine, box or tube, as it will hold onto crud and grit.

I am ASSUMING the original question was about factory 10-22 mags.  The only extended variety I have found that
actually work are the single stack versions, usually 25 rounders.