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Question for Garand Guru's

Started by VTMountaineer, May 27, 2011, 10:58:41 PM

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VTMountaineer

May 27, 2011, 10:58:41 PM
I just picked up my second service grade Garand from the CMP.

My first is an HRA that I picked up a while back and probably have 500 rounds through.

The new one is an SA that is for my son when he gets older. The first thing I did when it arrived was to break it down. I noticed the trigger guard offered a bit more resistance to opening when breaking it down. After I broke it down I noticed that the HRA had a SA trigger group and Op Rod and the SA had a HRA trigger group and Op Rod so I started to think about swapping some parts around to match up manufacturer wise.

I test fit the trigger group from the new SA in the HRA and noticed it offered more resistance locking in. After seeing it offer more resistance coming out of the SA rifle and going into the HRA rifle I started comparing the two trigger groups side by side. What I found was that the trigger group from my original rifle is missing one of the ears that locks into the receiver which is why it was locking in and coming out easier than the new rifles trigger group. Don't get me wrong the original trigger group locks in and once in there is not any noticable play, there just is not as much closing or opening force needed on the trigger guard.

Since the original rifle was my first Garand I really did not have  point of reference on how much resistance it should have locking in. I have never had a problem in all the rounds I have put in it but wonder if it is something to be concerned about before using it in live fire again?

Has anyone ever run into this? If so is there a reletively easy way to replace the ear or should I replace the whole trigger guard?

I would appreciate input from any of you Garand experts out there!

Thanks,

John

hawkeye

#1
May 27, 2011, 11:53:27 PM
If your trigger guard is missing a locking lug go ahead and replace it. The correct one for an HRA is the stamped one. You will start to fill resistance to closing the trigger guard about the time the rear of the guard starts to pass the bottom of the trigger. The more tight the lock up the better, lose lock up the more the receiver moves in the stock. When the Garands were made they used mallets at the factory to close them. 
"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a piece of crap by the clean end." Texas A&M student

Wade

#2
May 28, 2011, 01:11:07 AM
Hawkeye is has it right , just for ref my Garand was loose in the trigger lock up and shot about 3 moa  JB worked it over abit (feild fix card board ammo box shim's) and it went to 1.7 moa  (as long as the nut behind the butt does his part)  Funny it works  so well,,there are better ways to fix it but I kinda like an ugly Rifle that shoots so well.

Wade
Got Tired of looking for a Rifle Range So we Dug one up!
WOOF!
4 box's #1 the soap box#2 the letter box #3 the ballot box #4 the cartridge box, The founding fathers picked up the Cartridge box so that WE could use the first 3,,IMO If you don't use those 3 then you dishonour the founding Fathers !

06en

#3
May 28, 2011, 01:22:01 AM
Quotethere are better ways to fix it but I kinda like an ugly Rifle that shoots so well.

I'd rather have that
than a pretty rifle that shoots worse any day

Old Dog

#4
May 28, 2011, 08:32:13 AM Last Edit: May 28, 2011, 08:35:04 AM by Old Dog
The trigger assembly parts, sights, bullet feeding parts and springs can be switched around without much in the way of fit/function problems.

The operating rod and bolt are trickier.

If you're going to try to switch the operating rods do a "tilt test" to insure the bends in the rods (they are supposed to be bent) allow each to function correctly in the other rifle.  Sometimes the operating rods will rub in one rilfe even though they fit/work fine in the original rifle.

Tilt test http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIoxbtdPXY

Oh, not sure of the need to do it with the hammer removed from the trigger housing/assembly.
"The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil, and while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles."

—Jeff Cooper, The Art of the Rifle

Lakevillian

#5
May 29, 2011, 04:22:15 PM
Contact the CMP to see if they will replace the defective part.  From what I have heard they are pretty good about that.

John
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God"

How to resist, that's the rub.......
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