I've had Tech-Sights on my SKS and due to them sitting back further on the receiver, even when fully turkey-necked the sight housing would still smack my shooting glasses.
So I borrowed my friend's ATI stock since it has the collapsible stock feature so I could pull it out and get further away from the rear sight.
Wellll there's a protruding shelf-type thing on the bottom of the Tech-sight that actually hits the ATI stock and prevents the action from being fully locked in.
Anyone else used this combo of parts?
I'm thinking just dremel out the stock to make clearance for the TS?
QuoteI'm thinking just dremel out the stock to make clearance for the TS?
That's what you have to do for the Tapco stocks.
On the Tapco stocks it isn't too much-so there isn't any worry about decreasing the rigidity.
I have that set up and a dremel is your friend.
Cool -- thanks!
(and p.s. I see now that this is a Tapco, not an ATI ... oops! :D)
CJ,
See " SKS based LTR" in Rifle Bank Of Knowledge. Complete instructions WITH photos for mounting Tech-Sights on Tapco-stocked SKS.
LS
I want to put a front swivel stud on my Yugo SKS, and am looking at the PDF for SKS LTR. Step 3 isn't clear ... did they fill in the bayonet cut on the Tapco stock, drill a hole, then install the front swivel? Would it hold in a hardened resin? Is the Tapco stock used one without the bayonet cut? It looks like the top part of the picture in Step 3 is a top view, and the bottom half is a bottom view, which would mean the stock doesn't have a bayonet cut.
Kratos,
You are seeing TWO stocks in the photo, one WITH and one WITHOUT bayonet cut. I purchased one of the stocks (with bayonet cut) BEFORE we decided to do the LTR project, therefore it had to be filled. The front of the stocks were filled partly with resin to provide extra rigidty for the swivel stud. We used M14 front swivels from Numrich gun parts as they have two mounting bolts. Oval-head allen bolts were used for their low head profile.
I suggest replacing the factory Tapco rear swivel with the M14 unit also. It is an easy replacement, requiring only a little filing of the slot in the stock. The Tapco swivel is plastic, and so thick as to make it difficult to attach a sling.
Longshot
Is the top part of the photo in Step 3 the Tapco bayonet cut stock from a top view? If so, how did you fill in the channel where the bayonet would go and keep the epoxy contained? Does it adhere to the Tapco stock well, or could it over time come loose and thus cause the entire epoxy part to fall out (being helped by gravity since it's facing down)?
Is a trigger job really worth it on a Yugo SKS? If so, any suggestions on who to hire for the work? Or is just replacing the spring all that is really need to drastically improve the SKS trigger?
Piece of duct tape to contain the resin, then thru-bolted and washered to attach the swivel. No chance of it falling out, and it sticks well, anyway.
I definately recommend trigger work, along with the springs. I do my own, but don't do it for pay because of liability.
I've heard of a guy in Texas that does it, and well, but don't know the name, offhand. Somewhere, in this vast forum, is an SKS-LTR discussion post, where the guy's name and particulars are mentioned.
KR
Quote from: Longshot on October 01, 2009, 01:13:27 AM
I've heard of a guy in Texas that does it, and well, but don't know the name, offhand. Somewhere, in this vast forum, is an SKS-LTR discussion post, where the guy's name and particulars are mentioned.
Here is an article on surplusrifleforum.com about Tom Prince and his SKS trigger jobs:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/skstriggermaster/index.asp
Here is the link to the SKS LTR.
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?topic=3305.0
Don't forget the bolt mod to keep it from slam-firing and the ability to load mags with the bolt closed. @$60 for both.
All this hoohaa about slam fires... jiminy cricket..
Grinding the bottom of the bolt to the same profile as that of an SKS-M or SKS-D is a great idea, and should be done on any SKS that utilizes detachable magazines. Very simple procedure, and can be done with a standard dremel tool.
I purchased the 'wonderful, amazing, super-duper spring-loaded firing pin" for the SKS, and notice ZERO reduction in the 'dimpling' of unfired primers. The bolt slams forward with enough force to overcome the weak spring used, leaving a light dimple on the primer. I suppose, given a worn bolt face, extremely sensitive primers, and an extremely stout recoil spring, that an SKS can be made to slam-fire, but I've tried EVERYTHING I can think of to get mine to slam-fire, with no success.
That said, buy the spring-loaded firing pin if it will make you feel better. It's made in the USA, and counts toward 922r compliance parts.
Tom Prince is THE MAN when it comes to SKS trigger groups. Had previously sent mine to a competitor, Bill Springfield, who is well known amongst H&K enthusiasts- less than 1,000 rounds into that trigger job (which was quite nice, btw) the trigger group started malfunctioning, creating light-strikes on the primer, and failing to reset properly. Sent the trigger group to Tom Prince ("Kivarri" on SKSBoards.com) and he advised that the previous trigger job had taken the tolerances too close, and several parts needed to be replaced (disconnector, sear, and hammer, all replaced with Made in USA parts). Paid the man his 40 pieces of silver, and have come to the conclusion that it would have been a deal at twice the price. Very smooth trigger pull, minimal slack, and the second stage breaks like a glass rod, at 4.5lbs.
One final note regarding the SKS:
DO NOT DRY FIRE THEM, EVEN WITH THE SPRING LOADED FIRING PIN!
That bears repeating:
DO NOT DRY FIRE THE SKS!
The reason for this is simple: the firing pin is conical shaped at the end. The hole that the FP protrudes from is not. Prolonged dry firing will eventually damage the bolt face, leaving what looks like (under very close examination) a volcano shape around the firing pin hole. This will cause problems later on, as it gets worse. First, the bolt face will grab the primer and rip small chunks out of it. You will likely not notice this, except, perhaps, for the small puff of smoke from the action. Beware! once the bolt face starts ripping those little chunks out of the primer, eventually, a little chunk is going to get caught IN the firing pin hole- once this happens, your rifle is down for the count. I actually had a piece of primer get caught IN the firing pin channel, INSIDE the bolt, and it bent the Murrays FP. Sent the whole bolt back to murrays for repair (they installed the firing pin) and they replaced the firing pin and stoned the bolt face back to flat; I was instructed at that time to NOT DRY FIRE THE SKS. If you would like to dry fire it, use a SNAP CAP.