I have done a good bit of loading for accuracy in bolt guns, going as far as turning necks, annealing cases, forming primer pockets, deburring flashholes, matching case volumes/weight, etc.
Now I am about to start loading for a CrazyHorse M14/S, which is chambered for M118 LR. This will be my first time loading for a semi-auto with maximum accuracy in mind.
I have the sinclair tool for seating bullets to length by the ogive and not OAL, plenty of 175 SMKBTHPs, primers and a few hundred pieces of once-fired M118 LR marked brass. I also have a decent amount of IMR 4895 that I would like to use.
I see the TM specs for M118 LR says 44gr of WC750. Anyone have any loads for IMR 4895?
Also, recommendations on crimp/no crimp? In my accurate minded bolt gun loads I do not crimp. In a semi I should probably use a collet die for a very slight crimp or what?
Thanks in advance for any shared experiences/advice.
Bama
Never loaded 175's, just 168's and 180's (Sierra Matchking Hollow Points). I never had any luck with IMR4895 but these days I believe it was rifle issues (1978 M1A with a NM barrel in the surplus M14 walnut stock it came in).
As you've been reloading (for accuracy) in your bolt rifles you probably read that while you don't want a bullet to contact the rifling when chambered you do want it pretty close to touching. If I were working up longer range loads for my M1A today I'd seat the bullets out like that (as long as they fit in the magazine :))).
I've never crimped my reloads for a semi-auto (M1A, M1's, Rem. 742, mini14 or the ARs) and never had any issues.
Based on that experience years ago, if I were attempting serious long range accuracy loads in my M1A or M1 I'd be buying an adjustable gas plug for them and going to a much slower burning powder than usually recommended for these rifles.
Good luck with the IMR 4895. Some rifles like it.
Thanks Old Dog
I don't have my notes in front of me, but IIRC when I talked to Ron Smith about loading some 168s (all I had on the shelf at the time) he pointed out that in gas guns you need to be about 0.010" off the lands. Thanks for the reminder.
Ok, no crimp.
I've had good luck with IMR 4895 & 4064 in my boltguns. The main advantage on starting with IMR-4895 is I don't have to buy anything to start loading, which is important considering I just bought a house and am jumping through flaming hoops of contractors who are bleeding me dry :( and not doing what they tell me they will do !@#)
But I can buy more powder in the future (God willing) so any & all do share your experiences with loading 175 SMKHPBTs in a semi, especially a M1A/M14.
I might eventually go to an adjustable plug, but for now I'll be more conventional and see what I can get out of it.
Thanks again!
wcmartin1 has a good post about this here (bottom of first page).
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?topic=277.0
I've used a LOT of 4895 in the past, usually H4895 or surplus 4895. Best all around powder, as far as I'm concerned. Even good at -25 below zero. I used to shoot Bench Rest competition, and this was always my first choice, with Win 748 second.
The standard M118 load was 42 gr of 4895 and a 173 grain FMJBT (M72) bullet. Used the same with 168 Sierras, still do. That's M852 Match, by military specs.
If I were to use 4895 with 175's, I'd start somewhere around 40 gr and work up, watching pressure. Be careful with 4895, as when it's starts to climb in pressure, it can go up pretty quick.
Hornady's Load Notes for Service Rifles lists the maximum charge of IMR 4895 to be 40.1 grains for their 178 grain AMAX bullet. 2400 fps. Very conservative load.....
I get 2600 fps + for my 175 loads in the M1A for the 1000 yard line. I use IMR 4064 and a charge weight out of a old manual. I won't list the powder weight, but it is a lightly compressed load. No pressure problems even at Perry.
It seems that loads get more conservative every year inthe manuals.
Zediker press has a downloadable article about loading for the M1A that I think everyone should look at. It is on their website. www.zediker.com Look for a tab for handloading that will take you to an article about loading for the match M1A.
For the folks new at reloading...its never a good idea to read someone else's load and figure its safe in your rifle. Always reduce the powder charge (the books usually say 10%) and start working it back up while watching the brass/primers for signs of high pressure.
There are a lot of "little" things that affect pressure.
primers - changing primer brand, or standard to magnum can raise pressure
brass - internal volume affects pressure (one reason some folks weigh brass)
bullet seating depth - too long or too short can raise pressures
case size/length from the resizing process
neck tension on the bullet - this one is small compared to some of the others, but still a factor
powder lot (batch) - when the powder was made, one batch may not be exactly the same as the next
the chamber dimensions of your rifle may be different enough to cause high pressure issues
ambient temperature at the range - some powders are affected by higher/colder temps.
One factor alone may not hurt you. Just like an accident isn't usually caused by one single thing, but a string of "things" that all meet in the same place at the same time and push an event/action into a danger zone.
Reloading is fun and for many rifles you can work up a load that makes if shoot like a target rifle costing several times what you really paid for it....just be careful and go slow when developing new loads. Any time you change the components (type of primer, lot of powder, type of bullet, brand of brass) you are developing a new load.
Have fun.
Inside the 600 yard line the 175s rule. Out beyond that much and you'll want the faster twist 1 in 10 barrel. If you have that, start with the 4895 at about 38-39 grains with a chronometer and work your way up till you get them leaving the muzzle at 2600 feet per second. Look at your groups at the 100 yard line too as this will tell you a lot. Wait 3 to 5 minutes between each shot for optimum cold barrel shots. My favorite load for that bullet is Reloader 15, 40.2 grains with the CCI large rifle benchrest primers in Lake city M118 match brass. The brass without the knurling around the bottom of the case is my favorite. The knurling is on the M852 brass made for the 168s.
4895 will be a good place to start, I usually do about 40.5 gr.. but I have seen a good many folks...Including myself go to RL-15..It is my go- to powder ,now..as usual, start low and work up for your own rifle...D-451