I have a used 10 22 that I bought recently. It has ejection problems, stove piping I call it. So far I have tried 3 or 4 different types of ammo, replaced the ejector with a Power Custom ejector,the ejector is in the middle of the slot in the barrel, tried several different mags, and have cleaned it, and even polished the chamber, still jams every 10 or 15 shots. Think I might have to buy the armours DVD from AGI and see if that has anything on it. Any ideas? Thanks
Might want to check the 10/22 section on rimfirecentral.com; they have a LOT of expertise with the 10/22.
Off the top of my head, I'd say make sure your bolt is polished and not hanging up; Also polish where the bolt handle rides up and down the guide rod.
Also, if you haven't yet, try CCI Mini-Mags - that's good stuff that very rarely hangs up.
When you are troubleshooting a 10/22, use only new factory 10 rd mags. None of the high capacity mags or plastic lipped aftermarket standard capacity are 100% reliable. Make sure that you are not putting pressure on the mag when you are firing. What you replaced was the extractor. The extractor is attached to the bolt and is like a little claw which fits in the barrel slot when the bolt is forward. Check your ejector also. Your ejector is in your trigger group and ejects your spent case when the bolt comes back.
Make sure your guide rod is smooth and lubed so that your recoil spring and bolt handle are not getting hung up. I am a firm believer in grease for the guide rod and the inside top of the receiver and top of the bolt.
So far I have personally found Federal Automatch to be the most reliable ammo. Multiple rifles in multiple Appleseeds with zero issues.
Quote from: Beowolf_357 on July 02, 2009, 10:36:56 AM
I have a used 10 22 that I bought recently. It has ejection problems, stove piping I call it. So far I have tried 3 or 4 different types of ammo, replaced the ejector with a Power Custom ejector,the ejector is in the middle of the slot in the barrel, tried several different mags, and have cleaned it, and even polished the chamber, still jams every 10 or 15 shots. Think I might have to buy the armours DVD from AGI and see if that has anything on it. Any ideas? Thanks
OK..First...the ejector is in the trigger group and rides in a slot in the bottom of the bolt. The extractor is what is on the side of the bolt and fits in a slot in the barrel.
If the empty is being extracted from the chamber the extractor is likely OK...since you replaced it with an aftermarket part it's probably OK as well. Check to make sure it holds a case to the bolt......
First thing I'd check is to make sure the bolt cycles all the way to the rear, make sure the recoil spring and bolt handle are not binding on the rod. Make sure the bolt goes all the way back and makes contact with the bolt stop. If there is a recoil buffer installed make sure it isn't interfering with the bolt. Make sure the ejector extends far enough to kick the empty clear of the action.
fepowered was faster on the keyboard....what he said
You are correct, I replaced the extractor. I was using new Ruger mags. I will try your suggestions on grease and check the guide rod etc. I am just about to swap the parts from my other 10 22 and see what makes the rifle not jam. It is extracting, the empty casing gets hung in the breach, next I will try a new ejector. I am a clockmaker-watchmaker so this isnt hard swapping parts. The bad thing is this is the rifle my wife shoots and dosent want to go to another Appleseed till I get it fixed..and I want to know why this thing wont shoot correctly. Thanks all.
I had the same problem for a long time, and I thought it was just the way things worked until other folks around me were putting 800+ rounds through with zero stovepipes. While trying to run the AQT in 4 minutes I was easily spending 40 seconds or more clearing the chamber. Forty shots usually turned into around 36 by the end of 4 minutes.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220 (http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220) for starters. I polished the bolt, cleaned all the paint and rough edges out of the chamber, polished the guide rod, and did just about everything they suggested but I still had a few stovepipes every 50 or so rounds.
Someone said that the extractor is only used when the cartridge misfires, since the blow-back of the explosion is what really sends the bolt and spent cartridge rearward. With that info I put the least importance on the extractor itself. FINALLY I broke down and installed a Volquartsen extractor.
End of problem... done... fini.
I have probably run 3,000 rounds since then and I haven't had a single stovepipe. I run Federal high velocity one day then CCI subsonic the next without a single hitch. Running the AQT in 4 minutes is now a breeze.
I also run the bolt and chamber bone dry - no lube at all. I also clean the rifle thoroughly after every shoot.
This is my story and I'm stickin' to it. ^-^
Aftermarket extractor's solved my stove piping problems too. I usually shoot Federal Bulk Pack ammo, which many people complain causes Failure to Eject issues.
I also second the recommendation to shoot factory mags for reliability. They need some maintenance too every now and again.
Here is a video to show you how. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek4_iFVoKdo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek4_iFVoKdo)
Many rounds down range and no issues.
If you look at the aftermarket extractors in comparison to the stock extractor you will notice that the aftermarkets have a sharper angle which grabs better. And that makes all the difference.
Here is how to replace it.
http://www.rugerfan.com/extractor.html (http://www.rugerfan.com/extractor.html)
If clean mags and an aftermarket extractor don't sure the problem, visit Rimfire Central to check for more suggestions.
You do not need to replace the extractor, just sharpen the point. O0
As long as you work the sloped edge you change nothing in the geometry of the bolt/extractor.
You may want to look into to radiusing the bolt. It improves feeding and will reduce the stove pipe jams.
Stove pipes happen when the bolt speed is low; it does not move fast enough when in recoil to 'kick' the spent shell off the face of the bolt and out of the receiver.
I didn't have any problems for the first few hundred rounds, but then I started having the occasional stovepipe. I think I'll try giving that volquartsen extractor a try, they are fairly cheap.
This is a great thread on the R10/22
I purchased two more of these LTR frames back in April prior to the April 19 events. These were the wood stock basic models and they had this fake parkerizing crud all over the barrel and all inside the receiver. I'm still cleaning the inside of the receivers.
So, I installed tech sights, and the matched trigger / sear from EA Brown. One of the LTRs shoots fine, the other has never fired a round. I cannot get it to chamber. Guess I'll take it to the range with tools and work on it. One of my favorite tools is an 8lb. sledge that some of you have used in Davilla and Corpus Christi.
Anyway, this thread is one of the things I really like about the Forum. I will take some of this info such as making sure the bolt is polished and does not bind and work on that issue. It seems that with this fake parkerizing the bolt seems to be dragging.
Thanks for all the great tips.
See you on the trail,
POP
POP,
You can probably skip any polishing of the bolt if you get the paint crud out of the inside of the reciever. I think this should be the first thing you do - get it to the metal.
Some guys in rimfire have their bolts polished to shine, completely smooth, but that's just not necessary for reliable operation. If there are rough edges or spots clean them up.
The one that doesn't chamber - that should go back to Ruger.
This weekend at an Appleseed event I had a cartridge blowout(?) on the inside of the rim. At least that's what everyone thought happened from looking at the shell. No problem except my extractor, spring, and plunger came out of my bolt. I found the extractor but the spring and plunger are gone.
I found the Ruger replacement parts in my 10/22 manual but I was wondering if I should get a new extractor at this time also. The extractor looks fine, and I wasn't having any problems prior to this. Or would it be better to use this as a spare and get a Volquartsen extractor? The rifle only has 4000 rounds through it.
Also I was wondering when you order a Volquartsen extractor if it comes with a spring and plunger or would I still need to get that from Ruger?
I found some excellent instructions on installing the parts in a previous post (this forum has a wealth of knowledge), so I think I'll try it myself.
You must order the spring and plunger separate. IMHO, just use the stock springs.
I make it part of my cleaning routine to remove the extractor, spring and plunger and clean the drillings in the bolt every now and then. 22 ammo is dirty and the crud does get into the extractor space and can cause problems.
HTH
Douglas
The Volquartsen extractor that I received came with a spring but no plunger.
All of this stuff is available from Ruger on line. Check out http://shopruger.com/10_22-Online-Parts/products/66/ (http://shopruger.com/10_22-Online-Parts/products/66/)
Even if you go the Volquartsen route you will still need the plunger.
I opted to order about $40 dollars worth of spare parts that I carry along with my 10/22. Mostly simple and cheap stuff, but priceless when you are in a bind.
Of my family of six 10/22 shooters, three were consistently having ejection problems, one occasionally, and two never. I purchased Voltquartsen extractors from Midway for the four with problems. We tried them out at the range last week with about a 100 rounds each and then shot at the Gibsonburg AS this weekend. The four rifles with the new extractors didn't have the first stovepipe. One of the other rifles which hadn't had any previous problems, stovepiped 4 times the whole weekend. We used the factory plunger. I am sold on the Voltquartsen extractors. Cheap fix for a very annoying problem.
Thanks for the information. This helps a bunch!
Quote from: fepowered on July 02, 2009, 12:35:45 PM
When you are troubleshooting a 10/22, use only new factory 10 rd mags.
Make sure your guide rod is smooth and lubed so that your recoil spring and bolt handle are not getting hung up. I am a firm believer in grease for the guide rod and the inside top of the receiver and top of the bolt.
Aye.
What works for me:
Remove the paint (if present; the SS all-weather models are pretty much good-to-go) from the top of the receiver (on the inside of the receiver :), at least the forward half).
Remove paint (& smooth) the square pad (and the step next to it which rides on the receiver rail at the ejection port) on the charging handle.
Remove paint on the receiver rail at the ejection port (& smooth).
Grease these points.
Squeeze grease between the bolt rod and spring; compress the spring and remove the excess that oozes out of the spring.
Work the bolt a few times.
I don't know if all of these spots are vital; it is just a list of what I do.
For non-sandy conditions (I don't have data on winter shooting yet), I get two to four days of maintenance-free Appleseeding (as loaners) from my 10/22s, averaging about one stovepipe per weekend. Two have aftermarket extractors, and two have factory extractors... I haven't noticed much difference, even during the "break-in" periods for the rifles with the factory extractors. They shoot all standard (and above) velocity ammo.
The two rifles that now have aftermarket extractors had extremely bad FTE problems (with factory extractors, and continued to have FTE problems with new extractors) before I switched to grease. Undoubtedly my old lubing habits contributed to the problem.
just my $0.02.