Does anyone know of a diagram that shows the lube points for the 10/22? That's a hole in the Ruger instructions and I haven't seen a diagram yet.
Thanks!
Bob
If it's shiny, lube it! ;)
Not much to lube on the 10/22 as it has so few moving parts. In most Appleseed situations, the dryer, the better. You'll note that the bolt runs along the "roof" of the receiver, so a dab there, and maybe a drop on the bolt return spring guide. The trigger group has the most moving parts and a drop on the face of the hammer helps, but don't over do it. All that dirt and dust collects in the trigger group on lubed surfaces. The areas where dirt can't really get take a little, such as the hammer pin/ bushings. Otherwise, keep it wiped down and dry.
I run the LTR almost completely dry and have never had a malf due to crud at an Appleseed event. I apply a drop on the roof of the receiver and that's it.
You'll get as many opinions on this as there are shooters, so try something and see how it works for you and your conditions. Then don't sweat the small stuff, just keep shooting byt the 6 steps! JB
Thanks! Is it like a Garand: Never oil, alway grease?
Thanks again...
Bob
I run mine completely dry. No oil, no grease in the bolt slide areas. Grease and oil simply become a dirt attractor and quickly become a sticky goo. Sticky is not good in this case.
I used a hone to remove the paint overspray from the roof of the receiver in the bolt contact area. No oil is needed.
Edited: don't use graphite on aluminum - it can apparently cause corrosion.
I lube the charge handle/spring guide, the top of the bolt where it contacts the reciever top, and put a bit on the bottom where it's possible to contact the magazine. I then use rem oil on hammer pin - but actually only once in a great while.
I've also removed the paint from inside the reciever - someone mentioned the otherday that new 10/22 don't have the inside of the reciever painted. This flaking paint gunks you up - remove it and smooth out the receiver top.
Dry here also,
One of the three is a 1964 10-22 that had been badly abused by the time I picked it up in 1987. It still gets an average of 500 rounds a month run through it and the bolt (receiver roof) is the only place that gets a drop of lube once or twice a month.
I'm still running the experiment to find out how long it takes to break a 10-22.
I lube my 10/22's the same way I do all my automatics.
I use PG2000, hose down everything with it until it is saturated and then blow the excess off with compressed air. Doesn't collect dirt and fouling doesn't stick to it either. Makes cleaning a breeze.
A few years ago a machinist friend gave me a can to try, he said since he started using it his tooling stays sharp much longer. I also use it as a cutting oil and as lube for drilling steel. It really is good stuff.
Quote from: Bob Womack on June 26, 2009, 10:00:16 PM
Is it like a Garand: Never oil, alway grease?
Like it was said, everyone has a different idea. Personally, I am a firm believer in grease in a 10/22 (and most all other rifles). I use the light white gun grease that comes in the small tubes, and grease the top of the receiver and top of the bolt. I have noticed chatter marks whenever I inspect a 10/22 from someone who doesn't lube there. Even in rain and mud, my loaners have kept ticking away when others around them have begun to jam. I clean them each day of an Appleseed and relube.
I spray inside the receiver and the bolt with this stuff.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=960498
Goes on black, drys a light graphite color. I have 2500 rnds through my 10/22 since its last cleaning and it is still running strong. I think this is the perfect 10/22 lube for AS events because it is dry.
QuoteEdited: don't use graphite on aluminum - it can apparently cause corrosion.
I have not heard this. I never considered carbon to be very corrosive. Maybe the solvent used as a carrier for the carbon can damage the finish of aluminum receivers but I doubt it does anything to the metal itself.
Quote from: Aromatic on June 28, 2009, 01:47:50 AM
I have not heard this. I never considered carbon to be very corrosive. Maybe the solvent used as a carrier for the carbon can damage the finish of aluminum receivers but I doubt it does anything to the metal itself.
Graphite by itself does not corrode aluminum. Galvinic corrosion can occur in the presence of graphite and chloride or other corrosive ions an example of which is salt water or a marine atmosphere. In automatic weapons, just the presence of moisture and graphite can cause corrosion. It is banned for use on aircraft because of the effects on aluminum in the presence of moisture.
Quote from: Aromatic on June 28, 2009, 01:47:50 AM
I have 2500 rnds through my 10/22 since its last cleaning and it is still running strong.
You must not shoot at Appleseeds in the rain.... 8)
QuoteYou must not shoot at Appleseeds in the rain.... Cool
Not yet, just the heat and wind.
QuoteGraphite by itself does not corrode aluminum. Galvinic corrosion can occur in the presence of graphite and chloride or other corrosive ions an example of which is salt water or a marine atmosphere. In automatic weapons, just the presence of moisture and graphite can cause corrosion. It is banned for use on aircraft because of the effects on aluminum in the presence of moisture.
Very interesting. I learn something everyday.
Perhaps I will give this stuff a try.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=454666
Aromatic, IIRC, moly is hydrophilic, which is why some shooters have reported pitting in barrels after firing molycoated bullets. The humidity is the culprit...
I like Mystic JT-6 bearing grease. It's very 'slimy' feeling, and stays put. Works well on pistols for me, and other firearms where I want the lubrication to stay where I put it.
Aromatic,
You've apparently forgotten the Apr 19th AS at College Station (torrential rain & ankle deep mud). If your LTR kept up through that and the high round count, dust and heat at the May C.S. AS without cleaning, you must be doing something right.
I cleaned mine after the flood just because of the moisture. I usually use the Smith & Wesson dri-lube (teflon in an alcohol based carrier) and it's usually good for 700 -800 rds w/ no problems. When it starts giving me trouble, a shot of aerosol Break Free through the ejection port straigtens it out for another couple of hundred rounds.
Guy
Thanks CaptG,
It made it through that weekend, the next shoot, and practice in between without many problems. The graphite seems to work well for keeping the rifle running but may have some negative consequences. Maybe I will re-evaluate my rifle maintenance plan... which is unfortunate since I thought I found the magic lube for hot and dusty TX. I will do some more research and see what I can find. If I cant find a suitable dry lube, I may just risk it and try to keep it moisture free.
Quote from: Aromatic on June 28, 2009, 11:02:03 PM
It made it through that weekend, the next shoot, and practice in between without many problems. The graphite seems to work well for keeping the rifle running but may have some negative consequences.
The big picture is that you should do what works for you. If it works and you have zero problems, there is no compelling reason to change. The rate of fire is awful slow and the heat buildup is pretty low with a 10/22 which may allow more tolerance to the graphite. My only strong advice is to clean more often so that you will catch any corrosion early. If you never see any, you are good to go.