First off let me introduce myself, I'm polytech from KCMO. Unfortunately I had prior obligations this weekend when we had our first local appleseed :-[ Hopefully there will be another along soon. Now on to the questions....
I have a newer factory 1022 with the synthetic stock, without the removable butplate. Should I use the wood swivel studs and epoxy them in, or go another route? The forearm won't be too bad since I can access it, but the rear would be a little difficult. I was thinking of drilling a small hole in the butplate to shoot enough epoxy in to cover the rear stud. Do you guys think this is a good plan?
Polytech
I just got a pair of 1.5" uncle mikes for my wood stock and I noticed that they had instructions for synthetic stocks also. They said something like drill a small pilot hole and then put in epoxy before screwing the studs in.
Then I had to do something like that to get a front stud mounted on the bottom of my T6 stock. I just drilled the hole and then like you had access to the front end, so i filled it with epoxy. It's hard as a rock and I've had no problems with it so far(about 2 months).
As for the buttstock, it said to just add the epoxy to the threads before screwing them in.
This might be a question you want to ask Ruger, since their tech department will have access to the detailed construction documents of the synthetic stock. In lieu of that, I'd drill small pilot holes in the locations where I needed screws. If the stock is thick enough to support threading, I'd drill and tap the holes and forego the epoxy. If the stock is thin I'd probably epoxy in some of the threaded brass inserts where you want the holes to be. Surface area is going to be the key to keeping the extender on for good, while allowing you to change it out if necessary.
Other then for carrying the rifle, you only really need the front sling swivel stud. 8)
The plastics they are made of is rather strong compared to the actual load applied from the sling.
Myself, I would get the stud set that has the wood screw threads rather then the machine screw. Drill a pilot hole about 80% of the diameter of the threads and just screw it in.
HTH
Douglas
Polytech, this weekend was not our first KC area Appleseed, that was a few months back at Cameron, but you missed a heck of an event! Just FYI: Osage Beach is only 3 hours from KC, camping is free, and we'll be there this weekend!
I've put studs on that type of stock, the plastic in the rear is a little thin for my tastes. I used JBWeld, injecting about a tablespoon into the hole as well as coating the threading surface, and the wood screw version of Uncle Mike's studs. Let it cure in an upright position so that if the epoxy remains around the screw. Results were very good.
Quote from: douglas34474 on June 15, 2009, 01:47:57 PM...you only really need the front sling swivel stud...
Evidently not a proponent of the hasty sling... I would have to disagree with you on that one.
A little update, I installed a set of non-detatch 1 1/4" uncle mikes on my stock. I installed the rear (wood screw) and drilled a small hole in the side of the stock and filled it with epoxy, then intsalled the front (machine screw and nut) and epoxied the area in. The seem to be quite solid, we'll see if they last :~
Another question:
Should I take the time to float my barrel (stock) it touches the stock on both sides all the way. Is bedding worth it on an LTR? Or should I just buy ammo and shoot instead?
Polytech
Go shoot it!