well i was in apple speak tonight chatting with a few guys and we got talking about sight picture and cheek weld and i own a Remington 597 and i was looking at the sight's and found the cheek was a 1/4 inch maybe 3/8 inch's low when i get a good sight picture now i know I've had days when I've shot really well and some when i didn't do so well and i noticed when i was teaching a friend to shoot she was all over the place even when she was steady as a rock she is smaller then i am so she might even of had a larger issue. this might explain some an off hand issue's when fooling around doing IPSC style shooting with it
now one of the thing's i am wishing was available for my little rifle are tech sight's cause to be honest i don't like the stock one's on the 597 i was looking at the the one's for the Marilin which in the pics have a soprt of similar sight set up looked to be an maybe a half inch higher then the stock rear sight which means if tech sight where available they'd be guaranteed to be nearly an inch high of the comb of the stock
any one know the best way to raise cheek weld I'm considering using auto body two part high strength epoxy on two of my rifles which pisses me off cause they both have a really nice dipped camo stocks.
My other rifle which is a scoped Savage .223 Model 10 predator hunter is easily an inch to high i might fit it with an adjustable comb or something but wow was i amazed to notice that
You may wish to find a USGI leather cheek pad as used on the M1 Garand sniper rifles.
Only about $25 the last I checked and it is not a permanent modification to your rifle.
HTH
Doug
The M1 leather cheek pad moves the eye up and left. This offset to the left was because the scope for the M1 was mounted to the left of the receiver. This offset may make this item unsuitable for appleseed use.
"cheek pad moves the eye up and left"
This is true. However, the check pad can be moved to place the padding on top of the comb. Almost every raised comb I have noted is machined to the left of center.
For $25 it may be worth a try.
DR, if you don't have the money for the pad, find an old pocketbook or something similar made of leather and cut a big piece out of it. Experiment by folding it until you get the correct thickness for a proper cheek weld. You can use Velcro straps or old leather shoelaces to secure it temporarily, then when the final thickness is determined, sew the Velcro to the leather or punch holes and use the laces. This won't damage your finish and is a cheap, effective alternative.
BTW, as per our discussion on AppleSpeak last night, I don't see how anyone is getting a cheek weld--as described by eaglescouter--using tech sights or a scope on a factory 10/22 or Marlin 795, due to the increased height of the sights. Eaglescouter is looking for the type of weld where the bottom of the cheekbone is sitting firmly on top of the comb.
@the machine... or i could just go to my leather supplier and buy the leather i want for that on the savage the cheek pad is much more suitable an option i have the money to take 1 gun and a gun stock to a gun smith and say Duracoat these for me the JB weld is like 5 bucks a an auto body store
i might goes as far to get carbon fiber or like... kydex and make an adjustable comb on my bolt action rifle cause it's ridiculously high up... and the thing doesn't even have an option for iron sight's that comb should be.. much flipping higher...
@Douglass34474 has said on my Remington it really would not be i could likely buy mole skin and use that for cheaper and a better solution but for the is the epoxy weld sand and then DuraCoat... it's more expensive... but i'd rather the stock be like OD green to be honest and have a perfect cheek weld JBweld epoxy is like... 96% identical to green stuff epoxy so i'll likely have a friend who is a mad sculptor add stippling to the rifle while i am at it for like... the left over's from the putty...
the wonderful thing about this friend... She likes gun i think i found another canuckistani appleseed recruit i has a three man team woot. if i can get my cousin to go for his permit... i'll have a 4 man team with him his bro to update his.. 5 visit the cottage and talk to my west side of the river french neighbor's... i think i have a 12 man squad just with them guys
What you said! I think you have a gas leak on your mask, don't you? **)
I'm frugal, so I believe in reusing and recycling, thus the suggestion I made. In the end, just do whatever it takes to score Rifleman consistently. Good luck!
whats the one above rifle man expert right... i wanna score that constantly
Quote from: DruidicRifleman on April 28, 2009, 05:10:54 AM
whats the one above rifle man expert right... i wanna score that constantly
On the AQT Expert = Rifleman. This is the highest rating.
Quote from: DruidicRifleman on April 28, 2009, 02:34:59 AM
@the machine... or i could just go to my leather supplier and buy the leather i want for that on the savage the cheek pad is much more suitable an option i have the money to take 1 gun and a gun stock to a gun smith and say Duracoat these for me the JB weld is like 5 bucks a an auto body store
i might goes as far to get carbon fiber or like... kydex and make an adjustable comb on my bolt action rifle cause it's ridiculously high up... and the thing doesn't even have an option for iron sight's that comb should be.. much flipping higher...
@Douglass34474 has said on my Remington it really would not be i could likely buy mole skin and use that for cheaper and a better solution but for the is the epoxy weld sand and then DuraCoat... it's more expensive... but i'd rather the stock be like OD green to be honest and have a perfect cheek weld JBweld epoxy is like... 96% identical to green stuff epoxy so i'll likely have a friend who is a mad sculptor add stippling to the rifle while i am at it for like... the left over's from the putty...
the wonderful thing about this friend... She likes gun i think i found another canuckistani appleseed recruit i has a three man team woot. if i can get my cousin to go for his permit... i'll have a 4 man team with him his bro to update his.. 5 visit the cottage and talk to my west side of the river french neighbor's... i think i have a 12 man squad just with them guys
Just a thought, but you can borrow one of them "Maxi-pads" from your friend, place it in the right place on the stock, and wrap it with those CAMO patterned ace bandage type gun wraps. Just don't tell anyone what you used for a riser under the wrap. ^-^
Sounds funny at first, but it works, and is removable... AND adjustable... need a little more height? use a MINI and add to the other one until you get the right height for a proper cheek weld. <:)
Or you could try different scope mounts, your choice.... >:D
This will get the forum rolling in the aisles, for sure.... **) **)
super absorbant, for centerfire, light-days for the 10/22?
OK, I deserve the clownbat for that.
I use the field expedient duct tape and cardboard at Appleseeds to fix this issue when found.
If you have a stock that is fiberglass or synthetic, use bondo to create a riser, then sand to fit. Paint to match.
We've got some local intructors that bring cut up ieces of closed cell foam mat that can be taped on and left.
More permanent than the cardboard, still cheap.
Those super-absorbent cheekpads are also handy inside the front brim of a Drill Sergeant hat.
now you "prior service" guys are thinking about your old !@#) D.I.'s in a different manner, aren't you?
;D **)
My method is to use pipe foam insulation, cut to the proper length. The adhesive on the edges of the tube will keep it from sliding. then I cover this up with one of those elastic rifle butt cartridge sleeves.
Instead of pipe foam an alternative is using old mouse pads underneath the elastic sleeve. mouse pads come in different thicknesses, mix and match to the proper height.
http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tips/archive_tips.htm/97 (http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tips/archive_tips.htm/97)
braindoc
I'm gonna put a bunch of old mouse pads on the airtank of my super-duper .22 air rifle. (there's a small company in Fort Worth that makes air rifles w/Lothar Walther barrels, powered by little tiny scuba-tank reservoirs. I get it reloaded @ a scuba shop because I need 2-3000 psi, and, I ain't pumpin' that by hand. I've got one. Prior to today, I'd only put 2 rounds thru it, and into a possum that my dogs found in our little yard, followed by just enough trigger-time to realize how thoroughly I detest the Tru-Glo setup that came with it. So now it's got a red-dot, and, I need a taller cheekweld.
I recommend this product:
http://www.beartooth-products.com/shop/vmchk/comb-raising-kits.html
Cabela's sells them for about $20:
http://www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0010018223766a.shtml
HI, I make lace on leather high combs for most of my shooting friends. The right leather has,IMHO, the best balance of "softness/padding vs firmness". Some foam is so soft that , in a center fire rifle, you get "cheek slap' under recoil.
Other foam is fine so if it works for you go for it.
I like the firm cheek weld & I cant 'turkey neck ' too much, since I am a little "beat up" :)
I'll post some pics if anyone is interested. You can see what I do & make one if you like.
Or, if you're interested I can make one for you. I'm not in business so this is not a "sales pitch".
Hope this was OK to post here
Santa Dave
Santa Dave, we are always willing to learn something new, especially if it improves marksmanship!
Stiff cell foam sold as pool noodles is soft enough to not hurt and firm enough to be consistent. Cut a piece to fit and wrap with "Vet Wrap" a self securing ace bandage, you can find it at Tractor Supply and such places. Leaves no adhesive behind, needs no hooks and other sharp things, absorbs the sweat, and comes in colors.
Worked great on my sons Mossberg.
DAve
I've started using one of the larger circular car wax pads wrapped around the top of the stock and held in place with clear wrapping tape.
HI all, I'll get some pics over the weekend
Check your rear swivel if you make /use something like I will show.
In most cases, if it's a Uncle Mikes QD type it's hard to get the swivel on & off since the lacing gets in the way.
Though it seems like just loosening the stud a couple turns would cure this , most are the short stud & will likely pull loose.
I replace these with the longer stud & place the plastic washer/s as needed to clear the lacing.
usually this tales 2 washers & the black plastic ones look best, IMO.
To 'fit ' the washer place a piece of fine sand paper upside down on the stock on the area where the stud mounts.
The gtit shound be away from the stock. Now rub the washer length ways on the sand paper & it'll fit nicly against the stock when you're done.
Lastly if you use a bit of "white glue" on the washer under the QD stud it'll fill in any tiny gap left & since it dries almost clear it will sorta "reflect" the color the the washers & blend in well.
Installed this way yo have the QD swivel higher over the lacing & accessable for removel in sitting & prone.
the "gap ' from the bottom is covered by the washer/s that come with the swivels & the stud has enough threads in the stock fo carry & a hasty sling.
hope that helps someone
I also have the cheekweld problem. The used 10/22 came with a scope and see through rings. A neck killer especially shooting prone. Here is what I did, use quarters under the scope to see what the height from the top of the reciever to the bottom of the scope tube is, so the bell clears the barrel. I needed 7 quarters, or .480 This is as low as the scope will go. I got a picatinney mount 100-003-819from Brownells.com it is .344 thick, so .480-.344=.136 So my scope rings should be close to that. The Weaver rings 955-000-007 are .164 So that should do it. If this is still to high for a proper cheek weld my next purchase I think will be the Legacy Thumbhole Target Stock http://www.eabco.com/cgi-bin/shopper.exe?preadd=action&key=201-548656 Anyone ever use this stock? With this stock I would think it can be adjusted for most anyone if I need to loan it to someone for a Appleseed.