I've never mounted a scope and could use some advice.
I'm trying to put a Leupold 2-7x33 Rimfire scope on my 10/22, using low height Vortex Pro Series rings and an EGW offset rail.
I do understand about needing proper torque and blue locktite, and the need to positiion the rear of the scope at about the rear of the receiver.
But I'm wondering if the rings should be more in the middle of the scope's two tube sections, or more towards the outer ends of the tube sections as shown in the attached photo.
Thanks for any advice....Lyle
Hi Lyle. This is my personal opinion only and I'll explain why. I'm sure other folks will provide their feedback as well.
I prefer to have the rings near the middle of the tube for the reason that if the eye relief is wrong for either myself or a shooter that is using my rifle as a loaner, there is room to loosen the screws and slide the scope forward or backward to adjust for eye relief. The way you have it mounted currently, the scope rings are butted against the two extreme ends of the tube, not allowing any forward or backward adjustment, the same issue happens if you move the rings tight towards the middle (no forward or backward movement allowed to the scope to adjust for eye relief).
As for which way is more secure, I don't think that matters. As long as the rings are clamped snugly to the rail and the rings are clamped snugly onto the scope tube (get yourself a torque wrench here to make sure you don't over torque the screws as the 10/22 receiver rail screws can easily strip the threads in the aluminum receiver), you should be good to go.
I tried Leupold low rings but to get the scope far enough forward I had to switch to medium rings as the rear bell was touching the rail with the lows. The photo shows the ring caps not installed; but when you tighten them (to 13-in/lbs, no more) the scope will settle into the ring bases and be closer to the rail, probably enough to touch.
Before fully tightening the caps, test the position of your scope in prone and in sitting. In the photo, your scope would be .5-.75 inch too far back for me.
If you have one available to buy or borrow, I'd suggest getting a scope leveling kit. It's just a couple of levels that attach to the gun and scope while you're mounting it. They are a life-saver when it comes to scope adjustments when you're sighting in. If not, set up a plumb-bob to get the vertical reticle line straight up and down.
Lyle, I don't recall where I read it, but I distinctly remember a rule of thumb with regards to ring placement on a scope: not closer than 1/4" to either end of the tube. So, no closer than 1/4" to the turret housing, and no closer than 1/4" to either the ocular or objective bell.
The crux of it is that if you get any closer to those transitional areas, you run the risk of deforming the scope tube (by ham-handing the scope rings) in a location where any deformation is likely to cause a break in the seal which keeps dust and debris from entering, or in the case of nitrogen purged scopes, releasing the nitrogen.
Keep the rings centered on their respective tubes, as near as practicable. If you are forced into getting into that 1/4" 'danger zone', you need a different mounting arrangement.
In your picture, there is obviously enough room to adjust those rings towards the center of their tubes. As FiremanBob noted, I believe that if you tried to get behind that rifle, as it is set up now, and turned the magnification all the way up, you'd find it incredibly difficult to get the proper eye relief. Move the scope forward another half inch, and move the rear ring forward an inch, and you will very likely be in a good place to start.
Are you familiar with feeler gauges?
Do you have an inch-pound torque wrench that goes down to 15 in/lb?
Hey Lyle,
Another opinion here (we all have them) ;D The important thing is to get proper eye relief, getting the rings centered on the tubes (for me) is just a nice to have if it works out; it's not something I would spend any time worrying about. If you have them centered, you'll have a touch of adjustment available in the future.
To my thinking, the real important thing is getting that scope far enough forward that I can totally relax my neck and back muscles with that good check weld and have proper eye relief. On 10-22s and extended scope rail or cantilevered mount is almost a requirement to achieve that position. I put 20 MOA EGW Extended rails (https://www.opticsplanet.com/egw-ruger-10-22-picatinny-rail-scope-mount.html?_iv_code=KK-T8-RUG10-46102) on my 10-22s and loaners. This will also come in handy if you shoot your 10-22 at longer ranges (like at a Rimfire Known Distance!! O0 )
Post a picture of that rig after you git'er set up!
If you don't need additional elevation for longer distances, this is a good option for more eye relief:
https://shopruger.com/Tactical-Scout-Rail-For-Ruger-10_22-Rifle/productinfo/18083/
Thanks for all the great info.
@FiremanBob: yes, higher rings will be needed to move the scope forward more.
I also have a Leupold FX-I 4x28 rimfire scope, and that might be a better place to start. It's shorter, so should be easier to get the rear eyepiece forward more. And it's smaller diameter, so maybe the lower rings will work and I'll need less of a cheek riser
I'm away from the rifle until the end of the month, but will report back. Again, my thanks to all....Lyle
You'll be well served with that Leupold fixed 4x scope. It's a fantastic optic.
Finally revisiting this project a year after I opened the thread. No "haste makes waste" here ;D
I put a 0-MOA EWG rail on it, and low Vortex Pro rings. No clearance problems with the Leopold FX-1 4x28 scope. Plenty of eye relief.
Now to do a bunch of position practice to get ready for an Appleseed next Spring.
Thanks to all for the help and advice....
I'd move that scope all the way forward. In prone you will want all the help you can.
Getting proper eye relief in prone is important/key. Set the rings in the middle of the tube body based on location after eye relief is determined. Leveling the scope to the rifle is important. Wheelers makes a nice two piece level bubble kit. Ryan Cleckner levels scopes using the flat on the bottom of the scope and the flat of the top of the rail.