Step 1 of fundamentally firing a shot is Sight Alignment.
I heard this at Appleseed events (AS) and even instructed it. Sounds so simple, show a few pictures of what it looks like when properly done with some pictures/handouts, then discuss "Equal height and equal light" and move on to the next step of fundamentally firing a shot.
I've written this a lot, every step in the 6 fundamental steps of firing a shot must be done correctly, and any error in a step prior to step 6, will result in a shot that is not going to impact where you are aiming.
I never paid a lot of attention to sight alignment. Until I took up high power rifle shooting with the CMP/NRA.
It was at a Small Arms Firing School (SAFS) where at this one particular event the instructor SFC Brandon Green spent over 30 minutes harping on how critical sight alignment is.
The light bulb was lit!
You can have a perfect position (steady hold factors) and steps 2-6 of fundamentally firing a shot can be superb, but if there is the slightest error in sight alignment, that shot will not be where you are aiming it after step 6 of firing the shot fundamentally is executed.
There are math formulas that discuss this and you can calculate the error, and it is significant. I want to focus on proper sight alignment, as it is a given that any error will result in an errant shot.
This is precisely where "It is NEVER GOOD ENOUGH", this is precisely where you must go for perfection. The statement "Don't let perfect become the enemy of good enough" does not apply here at all.
I used to think it was "good enough" and my scores reflected such.
Equal Height Equal Light is a good analogy, if the competitor is actually inspecting for that on step 1.
You want that front sight post to be perfectly centered inside the rear aperture.
How do we achieve this?
We achieve this with a consistent and repeatable stock placement in the shoulder. That stock placement fosters a repeatable cheek weld pressure.
I mentioned this when I was "navybowhunter" in here, but did not truly grasp it's importance at that time. But it is a true statement.
Sight Alignment is achieved by a good cheek weld.
That is it, it sounds simple but it really is not. This is the segue of where the steady hold factors for the position meet the 6 steps of fundamentally firing a shot.
With scopes, I used to teach/say "Sight Alignment with the scope is automatic, the crosshairs are already aligned".
That is also a true statement, but I personally missed the part on how the steady hold factors compliment and help to achieve sight alignment.
Inconsistent cheek pressure and inconsistent stock placement with a scope will also give sight alignment errors on the target. This is very tough to grasp, I know it was for me, and I have seen it with many others.
Enter the Magical Golden scope device (I have a post on that in the gear section). The rear plexiglass insert on my scope gives me the appearance of a rear peep aperture. If I am not consistent in cheek weld pressure, I will not have a perfectly aligned circle. That will absolutely cause me to have errant shots on the target.
Here is a link to that post:
https://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?topic=56873.0
With iron sighted rifles there are smaller apertures you can buy for your particular rifle. I even hear there are some available for tech sights. A smaller aperture does rob some lighting, but....what one gains in accuracy via a much smaller error in sight alignment makes it well worth the loss of a little lighting.
On my wood rifles, I occasionally shoot the CMP games matches, maybe once or twice a year. It was not until I really started paying attention to sight alignment that I started to earn medals in these events. For me, I swapped to smaller apertures and my first wood rifle games matches after that I earned medals with all of my wood rifles. Smaller apertures invite a more perfect sight alignment by design.
Here is a link to a post about smaller apertures for the wood rifles:
https://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?topic=56687.0
What about scoped rifles?
One does not need a magical golden scope device, but it helps. Some dry fire and live fire so much that the stock placement and cheek pressure is accomplished via the subconscious and muscle memory. I still choose to use one, because I can inspect/check if it is correct. Most times it is, but there have been times it has saved me when it was not aligned properly.
Step 1 of fundamentally firing the shot must be maintained thru step 6 of fundamentally firing the shot. If sight alignment is lost on recoil, that is absolutely an indicator of:
- Loose sling
- Stock Placement error
- Muscling the rifle
When my rifle recoils, I am looking for the same perfect sight alignment I had prior to squeezing the trigger. Yes, I am focused on the front sight, but after recoil occurs, I also can see if my sights are still aligned. I can also see if my NPA is on as well, if my reticle or front sight comes back to the X or V ring on my target (there have been times it has come back to the X or V ring on another target LOL).
Again:
Sight Alignment is where we must use that "perfect" word (In fact, I suggest using that perfect word on all 6 steps of fundamentally firing the shot). Sight Alignment must be maintained and inspected all the way through step 6 of fundamentally firing the shot. I inspect it prior to my trigger squeeze and if it is not there, start over at step 1, which is sight alignment.
R/
Chris
I just wanted you to know that I enjoy reading these posts! Thank you!
Quote from: AJ Gonzales on October 09, 2019, 08:03:51 PM
I just wanted you to know that I enjoy reading these posts! Thank you!
:slap:
Quote from: USNAVYCHIEF(Ret) on October 09, 2019, 09:04:12 AM
With iron sighted rifles there are smaller apertures you can buy...I even hear there are some available for tech sights.
For anyone who doesn't know skip the Tech Sights aperture inserts.
(https://www.tech-sights.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/BACK-VIEW-1-SM.jpg)
All they are is a rubber grommet with a big flange on the back. The grommet fits into an oversized aperture. The problem is that they are never quite perfectly round and any contact from being in a case smashes and distorts them. Either way you end up looking through a not quite round hole.
I tried them for a while and went back to the standard steel aperture.
On that same note skip the TSR200 sights and just get the TSR100 sights. The elevation adjustment (which is just about useless) of the TSR200 adds extra wiggle in the rear aperture that doesn't help precision.
Thanks for the heads up Lomshek!
I have never used the inserts on the tech sights, and will not even consider using them now. I have the TSR200 sights, any tips on how to remove that wiggle room (aside from replacing with a TSR100)?
What I may do, is the JB weld thing. I know many that have done just that with the wood rifles to save some cost as the aftermarket apertures do cost a bit.
Just take some JB weld, and fill the hole (it will not look pretty at all), then when the JB sets, take a small drill bit and drill a centered hole. Take a look and see if that allows you to see the front sight and does not rob too much lighting. If it robbed too much lighting, go a size larger with the drill.
This solution should last for a long time. At some point I'm told, it will need to be done again, as the stuff loosens up. Maybe this is due to recoil on the .30 cals, the rimfire JB weld thing oughta last a long time.
R/
Chris
Quote from: Lomshek on October 10, 2019, 12:45:30 AM
Quote from: USNAVYCHIEF(Ret) on October 09, 2019, 09:04:12 AM
With iron sighted rifles there are smaller apertures you can buy...I even hear there are some available for tech sights.
For anyone who doesn't know skip the Tech Sights aperture inserts.
(https://www.tech-sights.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/BACK-VIEW-1-SM.jpg)
All they are is a rubber grommet with a big flange on the back. The grommet fits into an oversized aperture. The problem is that they are never quite perfectly round and any contact from being in a case smashes and distorts them. Either way you end up looking through a not quite round hole.
I tried them for a while and went back to the standard steel aperture.
On that same note skip the TSR200 sights and just get the TSR100 sights. The elevation adjustment (which is just about useless) of the TSR200 adds extra wiggle in the rear aperture that doesn't help precision.
Chris, your previous advice about reducing aperature size on the M1 was right on. I dropped it to a .052" and I think it helps alot with reducing error in sight alignment. It also makes front sight focus alot easier, and improves depth of field.
Tom
I'm glad to hear that worked out for you Tom!
Quote from: TomMPR on October 10, 2019, 09:44:30 AM
Chris, your previous advice about reducing aperature size on the M1 was right on. I dropped it to a .052" and I think it helps alot with reducing error in sight alignment. It also makes front sight focus alot easier, and improves depth of field.
Tom
Here's a visual aid I put together for my shooters. I never thought shooters really grasped the 3D aspect of sight alignment. Check weld pressure, Turkey Neck jutting the chin out to make your head level. Getting that sighting system DIRECTLY in line with your eye.
Kimber Custom.
WOW!!! I'm going to print and laminate on ledger paper (11x17) for my shooters.
Thank you.
Debbie
I like those training aids. Very useful.
The first time I heard the statement: "Sight alignment has nothing to do with the target" was at an IBC here in Alaska last February. ITSANSks had me repeat it and then when briefing the the six steps, he had me incorporate it into the instruction.
At first I was stunned and amazed with the concept. When I thought it through, it made sense.
Valuable lesson!
Gus
Sight ALIGNMENT establishes the proper relationship of the sights or scope to the EYE.
Sight PICTURE establishes the proper relationship of the scope and the eye to the TARGET.
This is a great post. Thank you!