I have a new 10/22 with a synthetic stock. The stock has molded in tabs with holes for sling swivel mounting. The front tab is at the very end of the stock front, and the rear tab is about 1/3 from the end of the butt end. My question is are these mounting locations good for using a sling with the program? I see other 10/22s with the front swivel closer in. Thanks
There isn't anything wrong with those locations. Some people like swivel studs at different locations. Try it. If you don't like the locations, put swivel studs elsewhere.
Agree. Those locations are fine, as you describe them.
That said, a picture would be helpful too.
Depending on your setup, it is possible to have your sling swivel too far forward - not typically seen in 10/22's though.
It is probably this one.
https://ruger.com/products/1022Carbine/specSheets/1278.html
The barrel band can be switched to one with a swivel, sling slot, or picatinny rail.
Also, both Uncle Mike's and Grovtec make swivel studs that go in the barrel band. Unfortunately, they come from the factory with 1" detachable swivels and some users have said the studs don't work well with synthetic stocks. YMMV. You may be able to find them separately (Google "10/22 barrel band swivel").
Quote from: Tennessee Beast on January 11, 2019, 05:26:43 PM
It is probably this one.
https://ruger.com/products/1022Carbine/specSheets/1278.html
The barrel band can be switched to one with a swivel, sling slot, or picatinny rail.
Also, both Uncle Mike's and Grovtec make swivel studs that go in the barrel band. Unfortunately, they come from the factory with 1" detachable swivels and some users have said the studs don't work well with synthetic stocks. YMMV. You may be able to find them separately (Google "10/22 barrel band swivel").
TB,
I imagine you're right.
I have a couple ATI adjustable stock 10/22s (Ruger branded) where the swivel stud can be mounted pretty close to muzzle.
If it's the standard vanilla synthetic stock, there shouldn't be any issues.
The factory locations would work fine for me. If you wanted to add one closer to you on the fore end just use the stud with the machine screw threads and nut. You can epoxy it as well but that is over kill.
Please do not put 1 inch swivels on it. The inch sling just do not compare to an 1 1/4" slings. They are flimsy and twist them selves into nots.
Just ask Invictus Maneo what his dummy rifle looks like after I demo for him. ;D
https://www.amazon.com/Swivel-Screws-Mounting-Hunting-Shotguns/dp/B01LXM86FJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1547264283&sr=8-1&keywords=sling+swivel+screw
This is just for an example of the stud and nut.
If it is the rifle in TB's link I wouldn't change the rear stud. I not fond of the sling swivels the attack to the plastic barrel band.
Thank you all for the help. I am going to order the black cotton strap and the swivel set from the Appleseed store.
My Appleseed store cotton sling and swivels arrived today. I have watched a few YouTube videos on the adjustment and use in the various shooting positions so I basic idea of the placement. I was amazed how the sling helped in a standing position. I will go back and watch the videos now that I am set up Appleseed style. Thanks again for all the input.
You may want to take the locking cam buckle off and flip it around so the flat side is against your wrist...it's really not comfortable the other way. Ask me how I know...
Quote from: cwcdl79 on January 18, 2019, 08:39:47 AM
You may want to take the locking cam buckle off and flip it around so the flat side is against your wrist...it's really not comfortable the other way. Ask me how I know...
Additionally, with a QD sling swivel on the rear, I pull that metal hook off all my slings and sling directly through the swivel like you have up front. I find it just makes for cleaner look and is more hassle free in use. The only time I keep that metal clip is if my rear sling attachment is fixed, such as on a standard, non-collapsible AR15 rifle stock.
Quote from: RedLeg on January 18, 2019, 09:44:38 AM
Quote from: cwcdl79 on January 18, 2019, 08:39:47 AM
You may want to take the locking cam buckle off and flip it around so the flat side is against your wrist...it's really not comfortable the other way. Ask me how I know...
Additionally, with a QD sling swivel on the rear, I pull that metal hook off all my slings and sling directly through the swivel like you have up front. I find it just makes for cleaner look and is more hassle free in use. The only time I keep that metal clip is if my rear sling attachment is fixed, such as on a standard, non-collapsible AR15 rifle stock.
I have a differing opinion... YMMV. I like to keep the J hook on whether I have detachable swivels or not. My reasoning is that it is easier to see that I have the "junk" on the outside of my bicep. In my experience, the J hook makes it easier and faster to change sling positions during the AQT. Additionally, this keeps my setup on my 10/22 the same as my AR-15. I will say that if I was going to take the 10/22 hunting, I would consider doing as RedLeg suggested to reduce noise as well as make a more secure connection.