Hey all,
Several of my friends have been using the TUBB buffer springs. If you "youtube" search for David Tubb, he has an excellent video on Buffer springs, and it is somewhat scientific, he uses strain gages, and stuff to prove/illustrate some points with the springs.
He sells a "flat wire" buffer spring. It will work for carbine, or rifle, and I think he said it is good for something like 50,000 cycles.
I use an UBR stock, and replaced the standard spring with the TUBB flat wire for a match this weekend. Not sure if it added points to my score, but recovery in rapids seemed smoother and the "ting" noise in the tube has all but gone away. I liked it very much.
I took the plastic tube cover off the buffer tube on the UBR. I cheek weld to the buffer tube itself. It was pleasurable.
So, this is a plug for the TUBB springs....give em a try, you may be impressed as well.
R/
Chris
I have one that started out in a rifle length stock and is now in a carbine stock.
A couple nitpicky points...
It's a much greater PITA than the normal round wire spring to feed in and especially pull out of the buffer tube past the buffer retainer because the square edges of the wire catch the retainer.
They say it'll fit in rifle and carbine buffer assemblies and it does but in the carbine buffer assembly it's significantly more compressed at rest and so offers a lot more resistance to the carrier. In the case of a Daniel Defense 16" mid-length gas system that usually spits empties out at 1:30 it led to short stroking. In Tubb's defense they do say it may need trimmed for proper function in carbines.
Now I need to build a spring weight measuring fixture so I can trim it to match the poundage of a normal spring. :sos:
In Tubbs Video he shows how much weight is on carrier at rest, and with bolt cocked. I agree......the flat wire spring required a little force, to get it to seat properly on the buffer, it was not at all difficult though.
No need to build a fixture Lomshek, watch Tubbs video, he has done all of that already.
R/
Chris
I've been running Tubb springs in both my AR-15 and AR-10 for several years and while I'm not sure if it makes them any more accurate, both rifles seem much more consistent with the flat wound springs. When fired from a bench rest, every case will land within a 12" circle with my handloads. I haven't altered either spring, the 5.56 is carbine length, the .308 is mid length gas tube but carbine length buffer, and as long as they ain't broke, I ain't fixin' em! :)
Dracomeister (Chief),
Yes, I did notice my brass landed in a small spot. I have tuned my ejector spring, but....I really noticed it in rapid and slow prone. Typically I set my cart up angled to my right side so the brass hits it and either goes inside the large cart bag or bounces off cart to fall in front of the cart.
Every piece of brass at 300 and 600 wound up going inside my cart bag! My scorekeeper was impressed!
Yes...every rifle I own (AR wise) will be getting these springs.
R/
Chris
Quote from: navybowhunter on September 12, 2017, 08:09:09 AM
In Tubbs Video he shows how much weight is on carrier at rest, and with bolt cocked. I agree......the flat wire spring required a little force, to get it to seat properly on the buffer, it was not at all difficult though.
No need to build a fixture Lomshek, watch Tubbs video, he has done all of that already.
R/
Chris
I found his video and realize I had seen it a year or more ago already. LOL What's old is new again!
I had forgotten it completely.
Here's the video link for anyone interested. https://youtu.be/8fMVZbrnvu8 (https://youtu.be/8fMVZbrnvu8)
Gonna have to go out and play some more and do some comparisons of spring and buffer combos. My H1 and normal carbine spring kicks the brass out at 1:30 which is "overgassed" by most accounts but makes brass pick up easier and is appreciated by whoever is beside me.
I did later on find a damaged gas ring (just one of the three) so I'm wondering if that was contributing to the short stroking I mentioned above more than the spring. Besides replacement normal rings I bought a JP McFarland style gas ring I want to test along with the springs and buffers.
That doesn't even touch tweaking the ejector springs! :wb: Need a hair ripping out emoji!
He also has a reduced power flatwire spring. This was the only thing that made my 6.8SPC reliable. And it gets rid of the SPROING. Great product!
No doubt Tubb's gear is good. I have a Sprinco enhanced power spring with a Spike's tactical T2 buffer; kicks empties between 3 and 4 o'clock. I have a mid-length gas tube (16" barrel) on my rifle. It does take more force to pull the charging handle, but the cycling is very smooth. Carbines with a short length gas tube might need a different setup. Trial and error. Sometimes you need to mix and match to reach what you like.
aj
Navy..., Yes, if your brass is ejecting at about the 1:30 position, your rifle is definitely overgassed.
aj
Quote from: airplanejoe on April 27, 2018, 11:23:27 AM
Navy..., Yes, if your brass is ejecting at about the 1:30 position, your rifle is definitely overgassed.
aj
Sometimes but not always. The ejection position is also affected the the strength of the ejector spring.
Gee, what does it mean when your rifle is chucking the brass (or, realistically the steel) 15 yards at 2 o'clock? It means you are shooting a Saiga! Makes an amazing pile of shells a long way from the shooter.
15 yards? That is nothing for a Mini-14. 30 yards is average.
It's almost as dangerous to be off to starboard as it is to be down range.
Back to the topic at hand, the Tubbs springs are a nice AR upgrade.
No spring noise from the buffer and much smoother functioning.
They are well worth the reasonable cost. His M14 springs are nice too.