Project Appleseed

Road to Rifleman => Rifle / Ammo / Gear => Topic started by: navybowhunter on May 15, 2017, 08:49:54 AM

Title: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on May 15, 2017, 08:49:54 AM
OK....
I am an NRA HP service rifle shooter.  I have a phenomenal Dillon 650 press, and it is set up pretty much like John Whidden's.

I purchased a Magneto Speed V3 chrono a few months ago.....finally got a chance to test it out yesterday.

I took 6 shots with my standard 200/300 yard line load, 77 Sierra Match King, 24.0 of RL15, Wolf primed brass (NO prep to brass), COAL: 2.260".

I do not weigh these charges.   I throw them on the Hornady powder drop mounted to my 650.

Ok, that is my recipe.  I also took 5 shots with Federal Gold Medal Match 77 grain commercial ammo for a comparison.  I think we can all agree that Fed GMM is one of the finest commercial offerings for ammo.

My load:

MAX: 2669
Min:  2640
Avg: 2652
SD: 10.5

FED GMM:
MAX: 2613
MIN: 2583
Avg: 2596
SD: 13.3

What does the above tell me?  My loads are a bit zippier than the Fed GMM, and tighter in the SD.  THAT is a good thing.

To anyone that shoots Appleseed KD or NRA HP with the AR15.....you can definitely handload better than the best commercial offerings.  I attribute it to my press, and reputable seating die (Whidden) with the free floating toolheads.

And...that wolf brass is excellent stuff!  Like I said...absolutely zero prep (no resize/trim anything).

This has proven something I kind of already knew.  But it is now "out of my head".  It will NEVER be (or only in a rare circumstance) be my ammo that causes me to move from X ring to 7 ring. 

That is a great thing to know.

R/
Chris
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: Matt8531 on May 17, 2017, 08:35:37 PM
Just a note on statistics: 30 trials (in your case, rounds recorded) is generally the smallest sample of statistical significance. The more data points sample, the more reliable the statistics become.

You may find that with a larger sample size, the two loads may be more similar than you now believe.
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on May 18, 2017, 09:59:56 AM
Matt,

Totally agree with you.  I actually did the Lean/Six Sigma black belt training my last tour in the Navy prior to retiring.

Were this a "new" load I was working up, I would have done a lot more testing.

The point being....the AR15, 20" barrel 1:7/1:7.7/1:8 twist match barrels have been around a LONG time, and the loads are pretty much standard for what all the competitors are using.

This load is actually Hollinger's from White Oak.  It is a very popular load in the HP community.  I simply wanted to verify it on the chrono, and it is a new chrono....first time using.

24.0 of Varget or RL15 under a 77SMK is a standard load.

24.4 of RL15 with an 80SMK set .010" off the lands is what I use at 600.  The COAL on the 80s vary, as it all depends on that barrel.

But...., for 1.5MOA shooting, the 24.0 will get it done, as will the FED GMM. 

LOTS of people start in NRA HP or CMP service rifle and go down several rabbit holes regarding reloading.  I am guilty of it as well.  Bought a neck turner, concentricity gage....all that stuff.  I NEVER EVER use it anymore.  Not for mid range (600 and in).

It is just not necessary.  99.99% of the posts I have followed on reloading regarding HP....EVERYONE eventually gets to where my head is at now.  Truly not needed to do all that prep work.

Aggrivere's posts on reloading in here...are a great example of that.  Scott started his HP journey a little before me, and he helped me a LOT regarding the rabbit holes one can get into with reloading, because he had been there himself.

For Long Range...., that is a whole nother story.  That is where uniforming primer pockets, deburring flash holes, neck turning and concentricity definitely do make a difference.

R/
Chris
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: Matt8531 on May 18, 2017, 11:03:54 AM
Chris, I understand your pain. My OCD gets the best of me sometimesl. Last year I did a bunch of ammo testing on a PRI Mk12, and found that CBC 77gr OTM shot just as well as the Black Hills Mk262 loading. You can get the CBC/Magtech ammo for under $.60/rd. You can barely reload for that cost.
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on May 18, 2017, 11:35:54 AM
Yeah....but I am significantly invested in the reloading equipment I currently have.  I cringe to even think how much money is wrapped up in that tooling!

Currently, I am using WOLF primed brass.  When it is available, it is something I try to stock up on.  Makes the task a lot easier...as the stuff is already primed.

I was using LAPUA!  Ughhhh, what a waste of money for High Power.  But.....it is great brass!

I've got 4000 pieces of the Wolf....likely this winter I will prep that stuff, and continue to use it.

I am in the market for an Aneealer.  That will likely be the last thing I buy, and should get me a few more reloads out of the Wolf brass.

R/
Chris
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: jmdavis on May 19, 2017, 01:27:35 PM
If you have the brass you can relaid for WAY under .60/ round. as a matter if fact you can reload for around half of that amount.

Example:

Sierra 77 match king in quantity if 500 $115= .23/round
Remington 7-1/2 primer at )34/100= .034/ round
Reloader 15 at $23/lb and 24 grains=.079/round

The total for the above is less than .35/round for premium components.

I used to buy match ammo for that price, but not for a Long time.

I reload most rifle ammo on a Redding t7 turret or a rock Chucker.

I process brass in batches if 1000 and I get at least four firings out of my load. Beginning with 1x fired LC, I process and the first firing is match use at 600, the next two are shortline for match, the final is practice. I buy all the .223 LC 1x fired brass that I can get. I prefer the early 80s-early 90s head stamps but it all works.

Processing is deprime, wet tumble, deswage, resize, trim if necessary to minimum, and put in plastic tubs for priming. Over the winter, I hand prime a couple of evenings a week and store the primed brass in .50 ammo cans.

Missed out on th primed Wolf for $119/1000. That was a good deal.

Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: d2331 on May 21, 2017, 09:35:37 AM
And it's even cheaper if you like nosler custom competition bullets.  They shoot better then I do and a while back I picked up a bunch of 77's  for 12 or 13 cents each.  Right now shooters pro shop has overruns on sale for I think $140 per thousand for the 77 grain bullets. 

I didn't get an ar until after sandy hook and so I had to use what I could find powder wise.  I was looking at Hollinger's data on White Oak's website and saw AA 2460 listed.  I found some shortly thereafter, and have been using it since.  I've never run it across my chrono but it shoots well for me.
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on May 23, 2017, 01:58:52 PM
Update 5/23:

So....my Dillon 650 is "tooled up" for LR Palma, but...I am a service rifle shooter.

How critical is it 600 yards and in?

Hmmm, well...first off, I cannot HOLD 1/2 MOA, it is just where I am. Doubtful that many shooters can HOLD 1/2 MOA.

First loads with the free floating Whidden toolhead for .223.  I was getting frustrated.

COAL I set die to was 2.258".  Just under mag length to ensure no malfunction in rapid strings.

I was getting anywhere from 2.24(ish) to 2.269!

The stuff over 2.260 is NOT a good thing. 

I measured each round, and took the ones close enough to 2.258 to the matches.  NO issues whatsoever on those.

Called John Whidden this morning, to inquire "why" my COAL was varying.

Here is his response.

They have been testing 6.5 Creedmoor and some 7mm dies....and have found that a batch that was cleaned and "lubed with one shot"
produced consistent OAL's.  The ones that they loaded on new brass without lube...those had some variation.  So they recommended lubing prior to seating and see what that does.

I'm not ecstatic about this...but will give it a shot.  I have never had an issue with these Whidden dies till recent.  Loaded all my Eastern Games ammo (30-06) on the Whidden setup with no issues.

It could also be the die...., they said to test a batch with the lube...if it is inconsistent, ship die back for testing/replacement.

Anyone else use Whidden dies?

R/
Chris
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: airplanejoe on May 24, 2017, 05:03:54 PM
Well Chris,

I need to begin by self incriminating myself: I'm a rookie reloader who uses a single stage press.

I use a Whidden full sizing die. After measuring a batch of fire formed cases I determined that headspace on my rifle's barrel (.223 rem/wylde chamber) is about 1.46085". So I wanted to bump the shoulder back to 1.45585" (I use 1.456"). The Whidden full size die was the only one I could find that allowed me to do this.

For seating the bullet I use a Forster micrometer die. I found that if tried to seat to a COAL (case overall length) I was having similar results to what you describe. Reading and asking many questions I began to seat the bullet to a CBTO (case base to ogive). The "explanation" was that bullets overall length varies (meplat trimming), but bullet ogive is more constant. Anyway, after loading batches to several CBTO's and checking the footprint of the holes in the paper. I arrived at the number I use CBTO: 1.805.  This has been fairly constant. By the way, I use SMK's 69 gr.

I think paragraph 3 best addresses your inquiry, but like I said earlier, I'm a rookie reloader. This "lube" thing is beyond me.

aj


Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: maxwell on May 24, 2017, 05:38:50 PM
You guys are kidding about measuring to the nearest 0.001 or 0.0001", right? I admit to having an RCBS freebore gage and micrometer die for seating 80 SMK bullets (in hopes of shooting full distance this summer).

For 69 gr loads at 100 yards, though, I full-length size and seat to 2.26" with Lee dies in a Lee turret, and group size to date is determined by my hold (same with the few times I've shot at 200 & 300, also). When I can consistently hold <1 MOA, I'll spend more time on ammo, but I'm shooting an AR with irons, not a bolt gun.
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on May 25, 2017, 07:31:58 AM
Maxwell (Adam),

I'm totally not kidding about measuring to .001. 

This is more for rapid fire than anything else.  I had been loading everything (200/300) yard line ammo to mag length 2.260.  What I found with the new toolhead (Whidden free floating) was that the COAL varied from 2.24ish, to 2.26ish.

Anything over 2.260 and one is inviting a malfunction in rapid fire.

Significantly under and we can run into pressure issues.

AJ:  Yes, for 80 SMK's or AMAX's I load those to .010" off the lands.  This is where it is somewhat critical to get seating depth correct. 

I took die apart yesterday, nothing glaring defect wise.  Will attempt another batch this evening. 

It could also be....since the die is free floating (supposed to move a little) the die lock ring could have had some slag on the drilled hole that allows the lock ring to raise and lower on the free floating toolhead.  I will ensure to debur that this evening as well.

I'll report back tomorrow on how it goes.

R/
Chris

Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: jmdavis on May 25, 2017, 09:10:20 AM
Chris,

Didn't you install an upgrade to lock the tool head down?
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on May 25, 2017, 10:47:43 AM
Yes Mike I did.  The toolhead is clamped.

However, google Whidden's free floating toolheads. The toolhead is clamped, but the seating die lock ring sets on the toolhead in a vertical pin.  There is some upward/downward movement of the die on the clamped toolhead "by design".

I re-tooled all my 650 heads to this system with exception of .30 Carbine.

30-06 worked great!

I think it may be some slag/extra material causing the die lock ring to bind.

Could also be my Hornady case activated powder drop was set too deep as well, that was causing a rise on the powder measure, but not enough to deform the brass.

I re-adjusted the powder measure, and this afternoon I will get on loading .223 for the weekend matches.

I'll update later on how it goes.

R/
Chris
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: maxwell on May 25, 2017, 12:13:18 PM
Quote from: navybowhunter on May 25, 2017, 07:31:58 AM
I'm totally not kidding about measuring to .001. 

I just grabbed ten SMK 69s out of the box and found the max length difference (base to meplat) to be 0.006" (i.e., the valve clearance on a VW). To me, this is really tight, so I'm wondering what the tolerance in COAL should be, given that the AR-15 mag is a pretty crude affair. Not trying to be a smartass here; I'm asking because I've only been reloading for a couple of years. Is it a limit of 2.260" ± 0.001, or 2.255 ± 0.005 or…I guess I could play with this tonight myself. :)

That variation you're getting with your current tooling seems way out of line, even if you were seating based on the tip vs. the ogive, so I think you're right to track that down. As someone who holds 1-2 MOA and is both cheap and butt lazy, I try to reject my scientist instincts and keep my reloading to a "good enough" standard.
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on May 25, 2017, 01:23:59 PM
Yeah...LOL

So at lunch I reassembled it all, and went at it.  It is better, but not correct.  Will get me thru this weekend.

I am setting to 2.258" for Rapid fire.

Getting 2.246 (one out of 100) and the average is 2.258 to 2.262

2.262 is not good, I will shoot em single load standing.  Out of 100, 80% are correct.

I'll ship die back next week, there is an issue.

I do have one more test (after work).  Gonna load my long line ammo using the 80 AMAX.  I have a COAL from Ogive and the Hornady COAL tool to check that. 

It MAY just be variation in the brass and bullet length of the 77SMK, but this is a first for me.

If the 80's come in nicely, then that is exactly what it is, as the 80s will be measured at the Ogive.

I'll update this evening.

R/
Chris

R/
Chris
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on May 30, 2017, 11:06:06 AM
Some may cringe at this...but it is what it is...

My short/long COAL rounds I shot single load standing, they held the 10 ring at 200 yards.  Shot a 92 in Offhand, a personal best.

The 77 SMK's that I measured to be below 2.260 and above 2.257 I segregated, and used them in rapid fire at 200 and 300 yards.

Shot a 196-6X (out of a possible 200) at 300 rapid prone.

My 80 AMAX loads I shot at 600 and put up a 197-4X (out of a possible 200).

TRULY, for us SLING shooters, one does not need to be that meticulous at all.

One does need to ensure that the COAL and powder charge are close (all my loads were thrown) and that they are resized correctly.

To put this in perspective, my 80 AMAX loads, I did a chrono session on for SD/ES a few months ago.  I never shot them to see how they group for accuracy, due to my leg injury.  Best SD/ES was a COAL of 1.970 as measured from Ogive (.010" off the lands), with 24.4 of R-15 powder.

Again...I NEVER shot them to see how they grouped for accuracy.

Put up a HIGH Master score at 600 with that load. 

NO need to do all that anal retentive stuff for SLING shooting, I know my ammo is not the issue if I throw a bad shot.

Other than that....Go CHOOT em!

R/
Chris
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: rscottb on June 06, 2017, 04:50:58 AM
Another nube reloader here with questions.  No need to be gentle, I used various forums and USENET a long time ago.  I know enough about reloading to be dangerous at this point.

I am starting with a Lee single stage press with Lee dies and I get the same length every time. I did the single stage press by design as I want to understand the details better before moving on or staying with a single stage process.

For my AR15 .223:

How do I measure the finished cartridge ogive?

For match bullets, what are your thoughts on Hornady 75 grain ELD versus 77 grain Sierra Match and others?

Not ready to try the 80 grain yet, I need to understand 75 gain magazine feed rounds first.

Are most .223 competition shooters using one powder or maybe a couple and what are they?

I do not understand by finished product length variances.   Are you using a higher output press that has a bit of wiggle in the process leaving the length differences? Can you take the excessively long cartridges and seat the bullet a bit deeper?

Does anyone shoot AR15 .223 beyond 600 yards and if so, how far?

What powder and bullets should I use for my Garand?  I learned about the CMP Garands and even attended a CMP Advanced Maintenance Class that an Appleseeder told me about.

I came from a 20 year Army background and using what 62 grain ammunition we had  and left > 300 meters targets to crew served weapons and sniper 7.62mm M24s.  :snipersmi

I am finding that I have to reload to get the longer distances results that do not break the bank.  I failed in avoiding reloading thanks to chatting with Appleseeders.  You may take that as a combined compliment/complaint   ;D




Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on June 06, 2017, 08:20:11 AM
Broken Scout,

Regarding Single Stage versus progressive:  You can't go wrong learning the fundamentals on a single stage.  It is a slower yet safer process.  But the fundamentals are the same for either, so if you decide to go progressive at a later date, you will be ready.

I use a progressive press for everything.  As does several time National Champion John Whidden.  Some modifications to my Dillon 650 were made in order to facilitate making match grade ammo.

On the AR specific questions below, I am referring to my setup, of which is a .223 Wylde chamber, 20 inch match barrel 1:7 or 1:7.7 twist rate.  This is important when we get into using 77 and 80 grain bullets.
**Note on 77 grain and 80+ grain bullets:  Ensure the twist rate of your barrel will stabilize the bullet, I believe at least a 1:9 is required for the 77's, but that info is readily available online, and on the box of bullets when you buy em**

Your specific questions:
1.  How do I measure the finished cartridge ogive?

Well...., several ways to accomplish this.  Might I suggest what I use, and that is a Hornady bullet comprator.  I think the set (with bushings for most calibers) cost me like $40.  It attaches to the caliper, and will give you a good ogive COAL.  In addition to this tool, I would HIGHLY recommend the Hornady sizing comprator as well.  It will measure the shoulders of your brass consistently, and allow you to set the sizing die to bump the shoulders back .003" which in turn will also prolong the life of your brass.
**** SIDE NOTE ON SIZING****:

IF your case trimmer measures off of the shoulder....you will definitely want the Hornady sizing die comprator.  I ran into a big issue last year, where I sized some brass (using MFGR directions....screw down to shellplate, back off a dimes width....etc) and did like 100 pieces one setting, removed die/toolhead, and a week or so later did another 200.  Went to trim (I use a Giraud that measures off the shoulder) and 1 out of 3 were varying in case length.  Same process for the World Finest Trimmers and any trimmer that measures off the shoulder.  Mike Davis turned me onto this cheap tool awhile back and it has been a god send!  I am surprised that the major press manufacturers do not include one of these in their press kits.  It is really a MUST HAVE for precision reloading.

2.  For match bullets, what are your thoughts on Hornady 75 grain ELD versus 77 grain Sierra Match and others?
I know some competitors that like the ELD's.  I have no experience with them, I am strictly 77 SMK at 200/300 yards and an 80SMK or AMAX at 600 yards.  The 77s will do 600 yards as well, but the better BC on the 80 helps to buck the wind a bit.

3.  Not ready to try the 80 grain yet, I need to understand 75 gain magazine feed rounds first.
Comment:  Any bullet 77 grain or less will load to magazine COAL.  80's are another beast.  We only single load at 600 yards, so it is not a big deal.  The 80's will not feed from a magazine.  I was amazed at my score growth when I switched to the 80s.  You will definitely want that OGIVE comprator mentioned in #1 above, and I actually seat my bullets to .010" off the lands.  My current barrels seem to like that for both the 80 SMK and AMAX.  In order to properly get a measurement to the lands, you will want an Overall Length Tool, Hornady sells 2 models, one that is straight and one that is curved (for AR type actions).  I am not impressed with the tool....it takes some finesse to get a repeatable measurement, but I only need to use it for a new barrel and I am done with it for a year or so.

4.  Are most .223 competition shooters using one powder or maybe a couple and what are they?
Yes....most use only 1 powder for across the course loads.  Those powders (one I am using are):  Reloader 15, Varget, H4895, Ramshot TAC.  Try to buy in bulk, same lot #.  4 or 8 lb jugs.  I am now in the process of burning down my powders and streamlining my logistics.  Ideally, when I buy a new barrel (they last anywhere from 1500-2500 rounds) I will buy 8-16 lbs of powder at that time as well.

5.  I do not understand by finished product length variances.   Are you using a higher output press that has a bit of wiggle in the process leaving the length differences? Can you take the excessively long cartridges and seat the bullet a bit deeper?
Short answer...Yes, you can take anything a bit long and reseat the bullet shorter.  My variation in OAL is coming from a press modification I made, where the die lock ring is actually free floating.  It has caused a little OAL variation.  I am working with Whidden about this issue now.  For my short line magazine fed loads, Rapid fire, I want to ensure my OAL is no longer than 2.258".  This helps to alleviate jams.  For 200 yard standing slow fire, I could care less about OAL variation, meaning 2.245 - 2.268 is way acceptable and will hold the 10 ring.  We single load at 200 yards slow fire standing, so the little variation in COAL is no big deal.  Kind of a pain for me now, as I need to measure ALL my loads (tip to tip COAL) to ensure they will feed in the rapids, but we are working on a cure for that issue.
Ideally, you want consistent OAL's.  This comes from a reputable/match grade seating die.  I like Whidden and Redding match dies.

6.  Does anyone shoot AR15 .223 beyond 600 yards and if so, how far?
Oh yes....I have not done it, but recently discovered that an 80 grain AMAX or SMK or 80.5Berger will most definitely hold the 10 ring at 1000 yards!  During some matches, after 600 is completed....those that score in the top 10 (or something) percent get to go to 1000 yards.  I may get to do this next weekend.  So....1000 yards it has and is being done on a regular basis.  Loads are a bit HOT....and you want an 80 grain bullet.

7.  What powder and bullets should I use for my Garand?  I learned about the CMP Garands and even attended a CMP Advanced Maintenance Class that an Appleseeder told me about.

Whole nother topic here...BUT....150/168/175 SMK and IMR 4064, IMR 4895 are good powders.  I plan to load for my 1903A4 this evening 175 SMK's over 46.5 of IMR 4895.  My Eastern Games wood BOLT rifle load was 46.0 of IMR 4895 under a 168 SMK.  The Garand load I used was 46.5 under a 168.

A good friend of mine (Keith Schachle) won the 3 gun aggregate at the Eastern Games.  Keith shoots 120 or 125 grain Noslers out of his Garand and wood rifles with great success.  When I burn out my surplus of 150 and 168 SMK's I will likely swap to his load for the Garand and wood rifles.  He puts up 1 MOA 10 shot groups at 200 yards consistently with his load.

My AR competition loads are as follows: 
200/300 yards:  24.0 RL15, Wolf already primed brass, 77 SMK set to 2.258"
600 yard ammo:  24.4 RL15, Wolf already primed brass, 80 AMAX or SMK set to .010" off lands.  COAL is from OGIVE and the only one I remember is my AMAX load....1.970" from Ogive.

Same 24.0 RL15 load will work for a 69SMK as well.  You can safely substitute the same load of RL15 with Varget and be good to go.

Hope the above helps.

R/
Chris

Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: airplanejoe on June 08, 2017, 01:56:14 PM
Quote from: navybowhunter on June 06, 2017, 08:20:11 AM
1.  How do I measure the finished cartridge ogive?

Well...., several ways to accomplish this.  Might I suggest what I use, and that is a Hornady bullet comprator.  I think the set (with bushings for most calibers) cost me like $40.  It attaches to the caliper, and will give you a good ogive COAL.  In addition to this tool, I would HIGHLY recommend the Hornady sizing comprator as well.  It will measure the shoulders of your brass consistently, and allow you to set the sizing die to bump the shoulders back .003" which in turn will also prolong the life of your brass.
**** SIDE NOTE ON SIZING****:

IF your case trimmer measures off of the shoulder....you will definitely want the Hornady sizing die comprator.  I ran into a big issue last year, where I sized some brass (using MFGR directions....screw down to shellplate, back off a dimes width....etc) and did like 100 pieces one setting, removed die/toolhead, and a week or so later did another 200.  Went to trim (I use a Giraud that measures off the shoulder) and 1 out of 3 were varying in case length.  Same process for the World Finest Trimmers and any trimmer that measures off the shoulder.  Mike Davis turned me onto this cheap tool awhile back and it has been a god send!  I am surprised that the major press manufacturers do not include one of these in their press kits.  It is really a MUST HAVE for precision reloading.



Broken Scout.

I'm also a rookie reloader and are going or have been through the same growing pains you seem to be going. navybowhunter posted good advice. My comments on the "quote": Regarding ogive measurements I use the Forster Datum Dial (I can set it to give me cartridge headspace or base to ogive measurements). The Hornady tools are great, but for some reason I bought the Forster. They both do the same thing very well.

Even though I participate in CMP matches my interest is other, so I'm not interested in loading any round that won't fit in my magazines, but the procedure is the same but adding 0.005 increments.

To get to an ogive length, I first measure my magazine and load (dummy round) to the max length that will fit in the magazine (COAL "overall"). Goes without saying that that dummy round will have the same specs as the rounds I load (sized to my rifle's headspace and trimmed and I'll use the bullet I'm gathering data for). That dummy round I'll measure to give me an ogive measurement. I'll then load five rounds to that base to ogive length. I'll then continue loading another 5 round batch but decreasing the base to ogive length by 0.005. I'll continue that process until I have 30 loaded rounds (6 batches with different base to ogive measurements). Now the fun part; go to the range and shoot groups (I use 100 yds). One of those six groups will be tighter than the others. That is the dimension your rifle likes. From now-on load to those dimensions. If you switch to a different bullet weight, you need to repeat the drill.

I had the same experience using trimmers that measure off the shoulder. I now use a Wilson trimmer powered by an electric screwdriver. I get better results, but at a slower pace.

Hope that helps.

aj
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: rscottb on June 10, 2017, 02:49:32 AM
My budget!

And thanks for the excellent answers.

I have Hornady Lock n Load OAL Gauge Straight  and the Hornady Lock n Load Comparator is on the way.
I just shot my 55 grain practice reloading rounds today.   I used these as they were the cheapest and gave me some experience from start to firing on my reload journey.  Used my new chronograph also. Went rather uneventful, AKA went well.

Next up is to reload the Hornady 75g VLD which I just discovered that the OAL is longer than the magazine, so I am waiting for the single load device/magazine.  I will wait for the Hornady Lock n Load Comparator to get a better idea on what fits in the chamber. I want a good idea on what fits and find the so called sweet spot on length.

And I ordered a 20" White Oak 1 in 7 twist SS barrel to handle the longer bullets better.  My 18" 1 in 8 twist SS barrel will not give me quite what I am looking for.  Wish I know this six months ago when I built the rifle.

NavyBowHunter, Where did you shoot this 1000 yard range?  I am in Southwest Florida and we have one available 1000 yard range that I belong to that is under great new leadership, unfortunately, the range SOP will not allow 223 on the 1000 yard targets, even though I shot these before.  I created a summary of training and plan for the shoot to present to the leadership to get authorized officially to shoot 1000 yard.  I find that the Hornady 75g and 80g rounds stay supersonic to over 1150 yards, that is my unofficial maximum range for rounds at this range and target.
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: d2331 on June 10, 2017, 09:37:34 PM
Navy summed it up very well.

Go to the CMP reloading forum and you will get lots of info for both 168/175 grain loads and 110-125 grain loads for your Garand.  I've not tried the light loads yet but it's on my to do list.  Like the AR, Garand load development was done long ago, don't try to reinvent the wheel there.  The usual suspects for the Garand are varget, imr 4895, h4895, and imr 4064.  Other powders will work but those seem to be the most commonly used.  Do your own research/reading on the CMP forum but off the top of my head I'm thinking 45-47 grains of the powders I listed above and a 168 grain bullet is pretty much standard.
Title: Re: How meticulous do you need to be? Chrono/SD
Post by: navybowhunter on June 12, 2017, 08:01:05 AM
Broken Scout:
NavyBowHunter, Where did you shoot this 1000 yard range?  I am in Southwest Florida and we have one available 1000 yard range that I belong to that is under great new leadership, unfortunately, the range SOP will not allow 223 on the 1000 yard targets, even though I shot these before.  I created a summary of training and plan for the shoot to present to the leadership to get authorized officially to shoot 1000 yard.  I find that the Hornady 75g and 80g rounds stay supersonic to over 1150 yards, that is my unofficial maximum range for rounds at this range and target.
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I am located in Southern Maryland, so the following are the list of 1000 yard ranges in relation to distance from my home:

1.  Quantico Shooting Club (1.5 hrs)
2.  Ft Meade (1 hr) but....currently painful to get to matches there
3.  Bridgeville, DE
4.  Peacemaker WV (however they do not offer NRA HP matches)
5.  Mifflin County PA Sportsmans Club (however they do not offer NRA HP matches)
6.  Reade Range, PA
7.  Butner, NC
8.  Camp Perry, OH

The above have 1000 yards (I am fairly certain)....

600 yard ranges
1.  Ft Hill, Cumberland, MD
2.  Milville, NJ

I have not shot 1000 yards yet with my AR15/.223.  I would attempt a 75 grain bullet, but think that the longer heavier and better BC offered by the 80 grainers would be a better choice.

R/
Chris