I was driving to the range yesterday hit a large pothole and blew out two tires. I think one if my rifles took a good jostle during the process. When I went today the scope was pretty far off. I was asking around to see how to adjust it, and received some scatter shot advice. Do you adjust it so you follow the Buller ie if it's shooting low to the right you adjust low and the right or is it the reverse?
I don't exactly know how to answer this, but here goes. Since you mentioned that this is one of your rifles, I assume that you have others and some experience in mounting and zeroing a scope. Make sure that the scope has not been damaged and is still properly mounted and physically aligned with the bore as you can by measurement or sight. Then simply zero it as you would a newly mounted scope. While i have heard of firing a shot from a rest and moving the reticle until it covers the hole, I feel that you would be much better off firing a three shot group and then adjusting the scopes elevation and windage knobs until your point of aim equals your point of impact at the desired distance. Your post is somewhat vague on what exactly you're asking for. If it shoots low and right, move the scope adjustments up and left.
Quote from: calamity ed on May 25, 2014, 03:31:32 PM
... I think one if my rifles took a good jostle during the process....if it's shooting low to the right you adjust low and the right or is it the reverse?
If the "jostle" effected the scope adjustment, definitely check for damage and for evidence of the scope having slid in the mounts and of the mount screws being loose from the rifle. Your reticle may not be level with the rifle any more. As was mentioned, you make your adjustments as to where you want the point of impact to move. If you are shooting low right, you adjust up and left.
Thanks guy, sorry if I wasn't clear. I had some good groupings when I checked the paper around this target. I am so used to shooting my mosin, with the front iron site movement, it threw me when I was trying to figure out if it was different
The right/left and up/down dials on your scope will move your group in those specified directions.
If you want your group to move to the right, turn the dial marked R/L in the R direction the appropriate number of clicks. If you want to move your group up, move the U/D dial in the up direction.
And after that, boresight your rifle to a easily obtainable distance (for example I have a ten yard hallway in my house) then go zero your scope and record how many clicks it takes to get to zero. If this happens again you can get close to zero without firing a shot (barring scope movement in the mount). All rifleman should know their dope to get to zero from a repeatable boresight distance for scopes or mechanical zero for iron sights.
ce,
My 2-cents: If you think the scope got banged up internally, you need to establish a mechanical zero. Run the adjustments all the way to one of the stops, then count the clicks to the opposite stop. Example, run the adjustment all the way to the right limit, then reverse it, counting the clicks until you reach the left limit. Divide the total number of clicks by 2 and from one of the limits count this number of clicks. Example: from right limit to left limit you counted 210 clicks; half of that is 105 clicks. From either limit count 105 clicks. That is the mechanical zero. Do this for elevation and windage. Once you mount the scope, mechanical zero should put you "in the paper" at 25 yards. It's a pain, but it works.
The way I mount the scope is as follows: I have a couple of bubble levels. I put one in the rifle (normally in the rail) and the other in the scope. When both levels show true, I tighten the screws.
Then I go to the local range and get the true zero for that rifle/scope combination at a known distance. Inside your scope turrets you will get info on which way to adjust. Don't try to correlate that to what you use while zeroing iron sights.
This is just my way of doing it, there are others.
aj
It might not be such a good idea to run an inexpensive scope all the way from one end to the other. My advice would be to check the mounts, zero the scope and mark the zero with a paint pen. You can still get confused if you go too far and make a complete revolution, but that's the way they work.
Now for irons, I absolutely count my dope. I first count from zero to full left, write that down, then count from full left to full right and write that number down. Mechanical zero will be exactly half of that full distance. But no wind zero should be that first number that you counted off to the left. Seldom are mechanical zero and no wind zero the exact same. Once you have your numbers mark your sights. Check the internet for sight marking info.
Mike
Right on, jmd. My way of saying it: If you keep a record, you will have a record to refer to in the future. Saves relearning the same lesson twice (or more).
aj
If the scope and mounts aren't damaged, just fire one shot using a shooting bag at your chosen zero distance. Go do IMC, adjust, and fire one more shot to confirm. Simple as that.