All,
Our club has a bunch of 10/22's that we are trying to make suitable for Appleseed and other shooting introduction. They are all carbine models with the plastic barrel band without any sling stud attachments. Would I be better off to install the front stud using Uncle Mike's or Blackhawk attachment or just drilling in a stud? I'm a little leery about putting a stud into a plastic barrel band. Should I just remove the barrel band?
Please share your thoughts/experiences!
Thanks,
EERT- Idaho Instructor/SB
I always use the machine screw style with a nut in front. U have the drill bit to counter bore for the nuts..
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/588454/grovtec-sling-swivel-stud-pack-7-8-machine-screw-with-nut-3-4-wood-screw (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/588454/grovtec-sling-swivel-stud-pack-7-8-machine-screw-with-nut-3-4-wood-screw)
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/643466/the-outdoor-connection-sling-swivel-stud-step-drill-bit-set-hardened-steel?cm_vc=sugv1643466 (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/643466/the-outdoor-connection-sling-swivel-stud-step-drill-bit-set-hardened-steel?cm_vc=sugv1643466)
The barrel band is just cosmetic, you can lose that.
I'll also plug my quick n' dirty slide-on sling mount:
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?topic=37271.0
though that's more intended for folks who don't want to mess with their stocks.
I would use a screw in stud for a wooden stock. Drill the hole and insert the screw. Remove add a little bit of epoxy and return the screw.
2cl
I remove the band and add a screw in stud, mounted further back than the band.
eert:
I have used
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/275030/blackhawk-lok-down-sling-swivel-set-ruger-10-22-44-carbine-number-3-1-steel-blue ( the little piece with the two holes in it, I discard the 1" swivels, and I use the longer screw for the rear swivel mount )
or similar by Uncle Mike's on each standard stocked Ruger 10/22 that I own.
I file the inside of the barrel band as necessary to provide a good fit to the rifle and the sling stud.
A properly fitted barrel band will have just a slight clearance all around the barrel.
The reason I use this method is that at a number of AS events, I have seen larger framed persons attempting to operate the rifle with front sling swivels mounted way too close to the trigger guards. This effectively puts them on the point of the support elbow instead of the pad behind the elbow, leading to an inability to achieve NPOA, because the point of the elbow acts like a ball bearing. Shooters with shorter support arms can just not place the support hand clear out to the sling swivel. This method provides a front sling swivel as far forward as it practical to place one.
Theophilus
Quote from: Nickle on February 25, 2014, 08:17:01 PM
I remove the band and add a screw in stud, mounted further back than the band.
This.
You can put a squirt of Elmer's glue in the hole you drill before you do the final installation of the stud, and it will help keep it from rotating and loosening. Screw in the stud to final tightness, wipe off the excess glue, and you are good to go.
Yup, but I will mention something I take as obvious.
Don't put the stud too far back. Read Theophilus's post to see why.
My 10/22 has a similar stud mounted in the barrel band as to what Theophilus posted. Since the band is not as tight with the mount in there, I used a small piece of cardboard between the bottom of the band and the wood stock as a shim, and it gives me a good solid mount while not moving the front sling mount back.
I put my studs about an inch back from the band in front, and about an inch in from the butt plate in the rear. It fits just about everybody.
The sling mount that goes in the barrel band works fine. I have installed two of them. On one it was necessary to file the lugs on the band so it would tighten securely. If you have a plastic stock, use epoxy in the hole and on the threads for the rear mount. I like JB Weld.
Quote from: Iguanadon on March 01, 2014, 03:56:51 PM
The sling mount that goes in the barrel band works fine. I have installed two of them. On one it was necessary to file the lugs on the band so it would tighten securely. If you have a plastic stock, use epoxy in the hole and on the threads for the rear mount. I like JB Weld.
This is what I've done on 10/22TDs, works great. Relieved the inside of the band where the screw goes through, not the band itself, to compensate for the thickness of the mount. Still plenty of room around barrel, and it seats just fine.
If I didn't want to alter my band, I'd probably go with Nero's solution.
Or, you can just get a Hogue stock, in your choice of colors, which comes with both studs & a non-slip butt plate! All 4 of my LTRs have them!
BAC/IP