Folks,
My club just bought three 10/22s to further the Appleseed experience. I need to set up sights on them.
Sp here's the big question: Tech Sights or Nodaks?
The Nodaks look to be more rugged; will they hold up better? Loaner guns will take much abuse.
Do I need anything special to mount the Nodaks?
As far as tech sights go, should I get the 100s or the 200s? The 200s look like they are the better option, but is there any downside?
many thanks
tk
I was going to say or was thinking Tech sights but after looking up the Nodaks, wow they are a sweet set up. I had never seen them before but after seeing the pictures I would like to see them in person.
Thanks for the turn on. O0
I can't comment on the Nodaks, as I have no experience with them.
I can say Appleseed has a strong relationship with Tech-Sights. We even have Tech-Sights being put on our new Marlin LTRs. If you decide on Tech-sights (which I can highly recommend), all you need is the TSR-100's. The TSR-200's adjust elevation in both the front & the back. More than what is needed at an AS, and may become confusing to students.
I believe TS100's sit a bit lower to the receiver which should give a better cheekweld / not need a foam wrap.
Caliper,
that's a really good point, but how easy are the 100s to adjust for elevation? The adjustments will get used a lot on loaner rifles.
tk
TS100 uses an A1 type AR15 front sight post for elevation adjustment.
Honestly, the TS200 elevation can get a bit fiddly if your windage adjustment is over at one side. Their special tool for TS200 elevation only really works well when the windage is centered.
Personally, being a 597 guy I wish they made the TS100 for the 597 instead of just 10/22...
At the time I bought 2 Nodak recievers thier sights were not compatable with standard 10/22 recievers. Double check if thier use is even an option.
Milt
Personally,
I would set 2 up with TS-100's and one with a 4x scope. This will allow you to cover the needs of the majority of Appleseeders and is exactly what I did with my loaner rifles.
For 25m shooting the TS-200 is needless complication. On the scope side a simple 4x scope like the 22MAG will meet the needs of those students who just can't make use of irons.
Mike
Quote from: duc-dog on October 18, 2013, 12:54:16 PM
At the time I bought 2 Nodak recievers thier sights were not compatable with standard 10/22 recievers. Double check if thier use is even an option.
Milt
Milt,
yeah they advertize a version that's compatible with a 10/22, but like everything else on their site, it's out of stock
tk
Good to know info, they seem like a good sight. I can foresee another project in my future.
Milt
Quote from: malabar on October 18, 2013, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: duc-dog on October 18, 2013, 12:54:16 PM
At the time I bought 2 Nodak recievers thier sights were not compatable with standard 10/22 recievers. Double check if thier use is even an option.
Milt
Milt,
yeah they advertize a version that's compatible with a 10/22, but like everything else on their site, it's out of stock
tk
Quote from: jmdavis on October 18, 2013, 01:02:22 PM
Personally,
I would set 2 up with TS-100's and one with a 4x scope. This will allow you to cover the needs of the majority of Appleseeders and is exactly what I did with my loaner rifles.
For 25m shooting the TS-200 is needless complication. On the scope side a simple 4x scope like the 22MAG will meet the needs of those students who just can't make use of irons.
Mike
+1, I also have three 10/22 loaners and they are split 2 Tech-sights and 1 22MAG 4x scope.
I used the TS-200s because Tech-sights had them on cheap, but if I had it to do over again I'd just get 100s for the reasons given above: Simpler for beginners, and the rear sight elevation is really fiddly.
(I have the shooters zero using the front sight in the AM, and then twiddle the rear only to adjust if they alter their cheek weld as part of working on their position.)
Sounds like it's three sets of tech sights model 100 for me.
I already have a scoped loaner.....
tk
OK, here's the -- apparently -- more complex question: What's the best way to mount a 1.25" sling swivel set on these guns?
this looks like the best option...
http://www.opticsplanet.com/wood-screw-type.html
Can't find a kit specifically for Ruger that has 1.25" swivels -- they're all the skinnier 1" swivels.
Is there a better setup put there?
many thanks
tk
Quote from: malabar on October 20, 2013, 08:59:51 AM
Is there a better setup put there?
Nope. Measure twice, drill once (per each hole of course!) and put a piece of tape over the spot you intend to drill to minimize the risk of splintering the surface.
I would put the tech site front sight and onr the back put a Daisy rear peep ($25).
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Daisy_5899_Peep_Sight/320
The adjustments are MUCH more user friendly. Real knobs that click and are repeatable. No tool needed! It just slides on the 3/8 portion of the scope rail that comes with the 10/22.
If you do go with TS the TS 100 is the way to go. The height adjustment on the 200 is a piain. I use my fine blade screwdriver to move it as noted above once the windage is too far to one side the "tool" (added expense and will lay moneyit gets lost at the first shoot) will not fit in.
My thoughts on the subject anyway.
IMHO there is little to no difference between the TSR-100 and the NODAK. The NODAK has a rail, but it is nothing but a modification of the OEM unit supplied with the rifle. Both are just about useless for mounting a scope on the 10-22 for Appleseed style shooting. You can not get the scope mounted far enough forward to allow a decent "turkey neck" and get the required eye relief.
It is almost imposable to set up a rifle for both a scope and iron sights. Set your rifle up for one or the other. If you go the scope route I recommend the EGW cantilevered scope rail with a 20 MOA slope. Also add a Triple K lace on 3/4" comb riser. You can get the proper eye relief using the cantilevered rail and a good cheek weld rather than a "jaw" weld by using the Triple K comb riser.
Quote from: Stand on October 20, 2013, 09:17:41 PM
I would put the tech site front sight and onr the back put a Daisy rear peep ($25).
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Daisy_5899_Peep_Sight/320
The adjustments are MUCH more user friendly. Real knobs that click and are repeatable. No tool needed! It just slides on the 3/8 portion of the scope rail that comes with the 10/22.
If you do go with TS the TS 100 is the way to go. The height adjustment on the 200 is a piain. I use my fine blade screwdriver to move it as noted above once the windage is too far to one side the "tool" (added expense and will lay moneyit gets lost at the first shoot) will not fit in.
My thoughts on the subject anyway.
Thanks for the suggestion. I like the look of that. Reminds me of the sights I used on my Anschutz. How do they hold up?
tk
The Daisy sights are good sights but plastic and prone to breakage. I would recommend care and the use of a hard case if you decide to use them. I also believe that you may have an issue with the front tech sight being to low with the Daisy's. On my air guns the front sight is on a .5 inch riser mounted to the top of the muzzle weight. This puts the sight ~1.125 inch above line of bore.
All of that said the Daisy sights are an extremely good value for a target sight that tracks reasonably well and costs less than $30 for the rear. http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Daisy_5899_Peep_Sight/320
I'm also experimenting with the Daisy sights... I was able to zero them (bottomed out)at 25m using a standard Tech Sight front tower with an AR15 post. This was on a 16.5" barrel. (Don't forget the lock tite! Or they will walk out of the rail :wb: )
They might be too fragile for a loaner...
I have owned and shot both Nodak's, Tech Sights, and have also shot Williams Ace in the Hole sights. My current LTR is set up with Nodak's because they offer a solution for iron sights on a threaded bull barrel that still allows me to run my suppressor.
Between the TS and Nodak's I prefer the Nodak's for the reason above plus the front sight post is an AK based unit that offers very precise micro adjustments. They are made in the USA and they are more robust than the TS for sure. Didn't you say they were going on loaner rifles?
The downside to the Nodak's is their price. They are about $50 more expensive for the set.
All that being said, what's the most important part of using your sights? Focusing on the front sight post right?
For this reason my next set of upgraded 10/22 sights will be Williams. They come with a fiber optic front and rear peep. This set up almost makes yours eyes focus on the front sight post which is hard for some people to do. Especially if you've been focusing on the target your whole life prior to learning the AS skills. While this problem may not affect everyone, it was one of the hurdles keeping me from scoring my first RM score. I was finally able to get over the hump but it wasn't easy to retrain my eyes and mind to focus on the front, especially when the time monkey was on my back.
I think it would be wise to give new Appleseeder's the best chance at initial success. Just my .02.
If you haven't looked through a set of Williams yet try to do so before you make your purchase. Another plus is that they are about the same price as the Tech Sights.
Quote from: Caliper on October 20, 2013, 12:51:52 PM
Quote from: malabar on October 20, 2013, 08:59:51 AM
Is there a better setup put there?
Nope. Measure twice, drill once (per each hole of course!) and put a piece of tape over the spot you intend to drill to minimize the risk of splintering the surface.
Just as a note on this...
The models I got were the stainless steel guns with plastic stocks. I discovered the plastic stocks are hollow -- both front and back -- which reduces the amount of material into which you can sink the anchors for the sling swivels.
I dislike the idea of mounting the front swivel to the barrel band because it puts pressure on the, so I mounted the anchor by drilling through the wall of the forearm, and then using a piece of steel shim stock to anchor the anchor -- the anchor screws through the wall of the stock and then screws through a hole in the steel shim. The anchor and shim are then sealed together by a heavy coat of JB Weld epoxy. We'll see how well that holds together over the long haul.
tk