http://www.ozfclass.com/articles/1/psm_2005_03.html (http://www.ozfclass.com/articles/1/psm_2005_03.html)
(http://www.ozfclass.com/articles/1/article1_img1.jpg)
Bit of science and gun geekism to help understand how and why barrels do what they do, and in turn how to help tune them.
kevinL
Yup, no doubt in my mind he's right. I've done/seen some of what he describes (the M700 in .222 Rem in my past was a BDL and the rifle action had to be bedded after the bump in the barrel channel was removed because the stock was so poorly inletted from the factory - once that was done it was dime sized shot groups at 150 yds.)
Now, moral to the above story is that it was my buddy's rifle. Randy could shoot dime sized shot groups at 150 yds. everytime we went to a field and put up some targets. However, when we went to the field, in 3 years, Randy never hit a groundhog. Why? Because Randy couldn't estimate range for beans and Randy didn't understand/know the trajectory of his bullets. Randy shot over the groundhog's heads time after time. Oh yeah, he was stubborn, too. Too stubborn to listent to me when we argued about it.
Being a rifleman means more than shooting tiny groups in the right spot at 25 meters. So that means you've got to get out to a range, a field, an old strip mine or somewhere that allows you to shoot at longer ranges, learn to estimate range (even if you buy you a fancy laser rangefinder use it to teach yourself to estimate range - in case it breaks, like electronic stuff tends to do), learn to read wind (same statement applies to the wind meters) and learn the trajectory of your ammo fired through your rifle.
If you don't know how big that 1" group at 25 meters is going to be at 500 yds. (don't think all you have to do is multiply using what your learned about at the Appleseed - IMC - because sometimes, for some ammo in some rifles it will be different) or where it will hit at on the target then you are fooling yourself.
A perfect example of the above paragraph was my experience at the Feb. 07 RBC at Ramseur. I have a BDC scope on my M1A. At 100, 200 and 300 yds. the BDC was dead on with the surplus 7.62X51 ammo I was using. However, for 400 yds. I had to set my BDC on 460 yds. The dial in my scope is for a .308 with bullets in the weight range of 150 grns. and it worked in the past (which is why it was in the scope). It just didn't work with that brand/type of ammo. Oh yeah, it's noted two places. In my head and in my notebook I carry in my back pack where I record such data.
Have a good one.
From a google search:
http://www.rifleshootermag.com/shooting_tips/determing_wind_values/
http://www.6mmbr.com/Winddrift.html
From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting_range
Wind flags
Outdoor shooting ranges sometimes have wind flags, positioned between the firing line (where the shooters are) and the targets. Shooters observe these flags to make an estimate of wind speed, which is then converted into lateral minute of arc point of aim corrections or, alternatively, windage holdoff corrections.
The flag method is the most common method used to estimate wind speed. A flag blowing in the wind will naturally blow away from the flagpole, with the angle of the bottom of the flag to the flagpole increasing with increasing windspeed. To estimate the wind speed in mph, the angle in degrees between the bottom of the flag to the flagpole at the mid-range position between the shooter and the target is divided by 4. For example, an angle of 60 degrees between the bottom of a flag and a flagpole would be estimated as a 15 miles per hour (24 km/h) windspeed. [1]
The clock method is then used to determine full value, half value, or no value corrections in minute of angle for this wind. Aligning the target at the 12 o' clock position or direction, with the 6 o' clock direction being directly behind the shooter, winds at 3 or 9 o'clock are equated to full value, winds at 1,2,4,5,7,8,10,11 o'clock are equated to half value, and winds at 12 and 6 o'clock are equated to no value.[2]
The minute of angle correction (full value) is then commonly estimated as ((Range meters/ 100) times Wind mph) / C, where C is a constant. The constant C equals 15 for ranges from 100 to 500 meters, 14 for 600 meters, 13 for 700-800 meters, 12 for 900 meters, and 11 for 1000 meters. [3] For full value winds, this full windage correction is used. For half value winds, the minute of correction in windage given by this formula is halved; for no value winds, no minute of angle correction in windage is required.[4]
Multiple flags are required for two reasons. First, the wind speed closest to the mid-point of range has the greatest effect on the projectile. [5] In addition, the wind at one part of the range will not always be the same at another part.
Wind flags are not always actual flags, sometimes streamers are used, small triangle flags, or even pin wheels. Factors such as the range length and expected strength of the wind determine the best type of flag to use. When no flags are available, a small leaf or other small light object can be dropped from shoulder height, and the object is then pointed at by the shooter; the angle between his arm and his torso can provide an equivalent wind speed estimation as a wind flag, although it will not be at the mid-range location along the bullet's trajectory. [6]
From (some field practice info vs. the above which was a rifle range example) http://www.iula.org/rifle-shooting-tip-reading-the-wind-4585/
All the above is from the first page of a search for "shooting and wind estimation". Its a start, then you have to practice it.
As far as range estimation. You can do it in your neighborhood, at a mall, at a part, at work, etc. Measure out 100 yds. Walk it from start to finish taking normal steps 3 or 4 times and record each time and average the number. When I was in the Army mine was 93 paces for 100 meters (long legs). Once you know how many paces you have in 100 yds. (or meters, either one that suits you) then you're ready to start practicing. Look at an object (semi close or semi far is not as important at first as just doing it) and guess how far away it is, then walk to it and count your steps. How does it match to your number of steps per 100 yards? Keep practicing till you're good at it.
Then you can get all scientific (and rifleman) about it and figure out how many MOA your front sight blade covers at various ranges and use it to estimate/judge range. You can figure out how to use your scope as a range finder (how many MOA does your thin/thick part of the cross hairs cover at various ranges.)
There's bound to be some info on this forum about both range estimation and wind estimation if you do a search for it.
Wind reading and compensation for it becomes particulary important based on your cartridge of choice and how far you intend to shoot.
Midway has wind meters on sale for $20, normally $40.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=894095&t=11082005
Where I live, if I were to use my rifle, wind is not likely to be a factor as 100 to 200 yds. is the farthest I could shoot (if that far).