I have been using the following procedure for reloading.
Decap with decapping die
Clean with ultrasonic cleaner, dry
Load in Lee Loadmaster with the sizing die over the priming station with the decapping pin removed.
I have been checking case length prior to loading (I now know I should check after sizing) and seeing as I was mostly using once-fired range brass I didn't find any that needed triming.
I recently started loading .223 which requires case lube; I have been using carbide full length sizers for handgun cartridges. I decided to buy a tumbler and corn cob media to remove oil prior to loading. With this extra equipment I am planning to revise my prodecure to this.
Clean with ultrasonic, dry.
Lube and size with decapping pin.
Pocket swaging for military brass.
Trim and debur
Clean with corn cob media in tumbler
Load in progressive press with sizing die still above priming station to help hold the case for priming.
What do you think of this procedure? do you think I'll have any issue with the sizing die holding pre-sized dry cases?
I think you might want to clean with corn cob next step after sizing.
Myprocedure;
Clean in walnut
lube and size
clean with stainlesstell media dawn and lemishine
trim deburr and champher
cut away crimp if needed
ream primer pocket to depth
load on 650 with universal decapping die screwed in station one.
What is involved in reaming the priming pocket?
Couple of thoughts. First, you ought to look at the use of stainless steel cleaning pins -- they do a great job of cleaning the outside, inside and primer pockets (if the primer is removed) of brass. My experience has been that this method is vastly superior to ultrasonic cleaning.
Second, for cleaning up rifle primer pockets, check out Brownells/Sinclair for their carbide primer pocket cleaner/sizer. It can be driven by an electric screwdriver and cuts the primer pocket to a "square bottom" and to the exact depth. You'll need to buy for the specific primer being used (I think you're referencing "small rifle"). In addition to cleaning the pocket, it also makes sure the profile and depth of the primer pocket is to spec and will allow primers to be seated below the cartridge base to reduce the chance of slam fires in gas guns.
You might also want to look at an inexpensive cutter that is used internally to clean up manufacturing burrs when the flash hole is punched. It also can be used with a small electric screwdriver, or turned by hand.
Just my two bits.
I have considered stainless steel media and will probably use it at some point in the future. The ultrasonic cleaner works but if it breaks it isn't going to be replaced.
I'll take a look at the pocket tools as well.
Is it good to have the primer seated below the base on other rifles? What about handguns? I always thought it might lead to insufficient pressure to ignite the primer.
If the pocket is cut to the proper depth you will be within acceptabe tolerence.
The Brownells tool reccomended by oldfudd will do a great job of it.
Engineers will argue forever over it, but my personal veiw is that slam fire probabilites go to allmost zero when the primer is seated to the bottom of a properly cut pocket. Wich puts the primer face just a few thousndths below the rim.
I also agree stainles steel pins do a great job of cleaning the brass, but better to use the tools you have, keep shooting, and upgrade tools when you can.
My only comment or suggestion is to use a primer pocket swaging system rather than the reamer. The RCBS primer pocket swaging system is very inexpensive and is idiot proof.
I also tumble the lube off my rifle cases.
But I remove the sizing die when I continue the reloading process. I don't want to stick a dry case in the die and have to deal with getting it back out. It's just too much trouble.
I have not had good luck with the either the rcbs or dillon primer pocket swage.
My luck would improve IF the instructions were followed.
Both tools work fine if you have a lot of brass that has a uniform web thickness.
I have two rcbs primer pocket swage sets, both with bent push rods, the nice dillon swage sits gathering dust.
The little bit of brass cut away is insignicant, I will continue cut the crimp off.
30-06 -- I think I understand what you're saying, but . . . . The swage tool is intended to only remove primer crimps that exist on military brass (i.e. -- swage the brass pocket diameter to the correct dimension for the specified primer). The Sinclair tool does not attempt to modify the diameter of the primer pocket itself, but instead (1) squares off the bottom of the primer pocket, and (2) cuts the bottom of the primer pocket to the correct depth for the intended primer.
Thus, the two tools have entirely different functions.
oldfudd
Mark -- I just saw your comment regarding the bent swaging rods of your RCBS tools. All you have to do is call RCBS at 1-800-533-5000 and tell them about your problem, and they'll send you new ones, no charge. Because of their great warranty, all I buy now is RCBS equipment (except for my Dillon, however ^:)^ ).
oldfudd
I just bought the Lyman five station power case prep station. It sure beats the pants off doing any of it by hand. Cases look awesome after the prep and corn cob cleaning. I haven't loaded anything of the newly prepped cases yet.
Quote from: Mark Davis on January 14, 2013, 06:08:15 PM
Both tools work fine if you have a lot of brass that has a uniform web thickness.
I only have the Dillon 600 swage tool, and see no need for anything else. I will, however, agree that cutting the primer crimp may ultimately be faster, if you choose not to sort your brass.
IE: Setting the Dillon tool for IMI 5.56x45 worked (for me) for all IMI brass in that caliber. When I later switched to Lake City 5.56, I had to re-set the tool to ensure proper a swage. My experience/notes show that changing from LC 07 to LC 10 & LC 11 did *not* require a change in tool setting.
Mixing IMI, PMC, and LC resulted in inconsistent swaging, which resulted in inconsistent primer seating pressure. This would not likely be a problem for the crimp cutting tools.