I just picked up my second service grade Garand from the CMP.
My first is an HRA that I picked up a while back and probably have 500 rounds through.
The new one is an SA that is for my son when he gets older. The first thing I did when it arrived was to break it down. I noticed the trigger guard offered a bit more resistance to opening when breaking it down. After I broke it down I noticed that the HRA had a SA trigger group and Op Rod and the SA had a HRA trigger group and Op Rod so I started to think about swapping some parts around to match up manufacturer wise.
I test fit the trigger group from the new SA in the HRA and noticed it offered more resistance locking in. After seeing it offer more resistance coming out of the SA rifle and going into the HRA rifle I started comparing the two trigger groups side by side. What I found was that the trigger group from my original rifle is missing one of the ears that locks into the receiver which is why it was locking in and coming out easier than the new rifles trigger group. Don't get me wrong the original trigger group locks in and once in there is not any noticable play, there just is not as much closing or opening force needed on the trigger guard.
Since the original rifle was my first Garand I really did not have point of reference on how much resistance it should have locking in. I have never had a problem in all the rounds I have put in it but wonder if it is something to be concerned about before using it in live fire again?
Has anyone ever run into this? If so is there a reletively easy way to replace the ear or should I replace the whole trigger guard?
I would appreciate input from any of you Garand experts out there!
Thanks,
John
If your trigger guard is missing a locking lug go ahead and replace it. The correct one for an HRA is the stamped one. You will start to fill resistance to closing the trigger guard about the time the rear of the guard starts to pass the bottom of the trigger. The more tight the lock up the better, lose lock up the more the receiver moves in the stock. When the Garands were made they used mallets at the factory to close them.
Hawkeye is has it right , just for ref my Garand was loose in the trigger lock up and shot about 3 moa JB worked it over abit (feild fix card board ammo box shim's) and it went to 1.7 moa (as long as the nut behind the butt does his part) Funny it works so well,,there are better ways to fix it but I kinda like an ugly Rifle that shoots so well.
Wade
Quotethere are better ways to fix it but I kinda like an ugly Rifle that shoots so well.
I'd rather have that
than a pretty rifle that shoots worse any day
The trigger assembly parts, sights, bullet feeding parts and springs can be switched around without much in the way of fit/function problems.
The operating rod and bolt are trickier.
If you're going to try to switch the operating rods do a "tilt test" to insure the bends in the rods (they are supposed to be bent) allow each to function correctly in the other rifle. Sometimes the operating rods will rub in one rilfe even though they fit/work fine in the original rifle.
Tilt test http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIoxbtdPXY
Oh, not sure of the need to do it with the hammer removed from the trigger housing/assembly.
Contact the CMP to see if they will replace the defective part. From what I have heard they are pretty good about that.
John