This is a link to a CMP - Amorer's Corner article. http://www.thecmp.org/askarmorergascylinderpeen.htm
I tried it on my M1. It's easy, and it does work. Just go slow and use a plastic mallet. Also, I used a flat bottom countersink punch. It takes just a little light tapping on the punch to get the job done. Too much and re-assembly will be a problem.
This is a CMP "legal" accurizing process, so you can still shoot sponsored matches.
Hector
(criticism of CMP methodology, or methodology 'approved' by thems that came before obviously unacceptable, this post has been removed.)
Once "peened" and the gas cylinder reinstalled there is little reason to remove the gas cylinder for standard cleaning (mine hasn't been off in years and won't be pulled unless I shoot some corrosive ammo).
I used a small ballpein hammer on mine. I lightly struck the slots between the splines a few times on each slot (3 or 4 times along the slot) and then tapped the gas cylinder back into place. Worked for me.
If a few light taps (all it takes to booger up the edge of a nice sharp spline) will damage a barrel that withstands 50,000 psi every time it is fired I'm using the wrong rifle.
What is light to me may not be light to you. Ornell told me to do it. Some of us remember Ornell. He helped me alot with my M1's.
Yes, there's always an easier way, a harder way, a quicker way, a more expensive way, a cheaper way, etc.
Quote from: Old Dog on May 09, 2011, 07:09:14 PM
Once "peened" and the gas cylinder reinstalled there is little reason to remove the gas cylinder for standard cleaning (mine hasn't been off in years and won't be pulled unless I shoot some corrosive ammo).
I used a small ballpein hammer on mine. I lightly struck the slots between the splines a few times on each slot (3 or 4 times along the slot) and then tapped the gas cylinder back into place. Worked for me.
If a few light taps (all it takes to booger up the edge of a nice sharp spline) will damage a barrel that withstands 50,000 psi every time it is fired I'm using the wrong rifle.
What is light to me may not be light to you. Ornell told me to do it. Some of us remember Ornell. He helped me alot with my M1's.
Yes, there's always an easier way, a harder way, a quicker way, a more expensive way, a cheaper way, etc.
Pappy used this way with my M-1 Garand it still shoots 1.7 moa as long as the nut behind the butt does his part.
Wade
Ornell was a great go too guy for Rifle problems. This is what I usually do to correct this problem. I try to only take the gas cylinder off once a year if it has been shot a lot ( 1000 rounds or more). I have never ruined a barrel or had a problem doing this using ether method but I prefer the latter more.
You do better to peen the splines on the gas cylinder rather then beat on your barrel. That's the method given to us by none other than John C. Garand himself.
The pictures on the CMP page show the barrel being peened without the use of a bore spud. This is not the way to do it. You WILL move more metal then you think you will.
Ever note that no one notes the wobble in their gas cylinder until after they clean the rifle. As soon as you touch off a few rounds the carbon will tighten the gas cylinder up tighter than a fist. A wobble of 0.015" was spec for new rifles and 0.007" for rebuilds.
As to removing the gas cylinder, the restriction on removing the gas cylinder was to prevent 'parts swapping parties'. The gas cylinder was to be removed in the presence of a NCO. Check out the early FMs.
The powder residue is hydroscopic and will cause rust under the gas cylinder. If you have a barrel with a chromed area under the gas cylinder it is not a problem, but with WW2 barrels are.
Living in Florida, with our humid environment, I find I need to clean completely every time I shoot, or I face a rust problem. I remove my gas cylinder every time. Been doing so over 30 years and have yet to note any increase in the wobble of the front sight.