M1 Garand Assembly - A Pictorial Walkthrough
(Inspired by jeep45238)
I started this assembly walkthrough on another site and am copying the contents here as part of the Knowlege Bank. Whole thing took about a week and a half mainly waiting for parts to come in.
This site does not handle pictures well so I ended up resizing everything. Click on the thumbnail for a larger picture.
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This is a 1955 SA Garand with mixed parts. Looks like I've got a HRA op rod. The safety is a WRA if anyone is interested. Everything else is SA. This is a CMP Service grade that I got by using the shooting certificate through the Appleseed Project. Bore and reciever look good, but the stock is beat up. The action fits very loosely in the stock. The plan is to replace the stock with a tight fitting stock to improve accuracy. And also to replace any/all old springs and make general improvements as needed.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/garand1st.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/garand1s.jpg)
Week 1 - Day 0: This is going to be a slow project I can see it already. I was hoping to be done by September, but we shall see!
Some replacement parts are in, such as springs and replacement front sight. A new stock is also in, but the stain I ordered hasn't shown up yet. (dang usps!) Yes everything is in pieces, but I have a good idea where everything goes! ;)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/garandparts2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/garandparts2.jpg)
Some more parts showed up so I began assembling some of the pieces.
First putting the clip latch back together with a new stronger spring.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/latch1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/latch1.jpg)
The new spring is on the right. It has a higher compression rating over the old spring. This will prevent the clip from releasing under recoil.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/latch2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/latch2.jpg)
You can see in this picture all the cosmoline that was still in the pin holes and grooves. The new spring has been installed in the latch large end first. Small end goes in the receiver.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/latch3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/latch3.jpg)
Lube sparingly with tetra gun grease. Assembly is as simple as pushing the pin into the latch while applying finger pressure to compress the spring. The stock will prevent the pin from backing out later.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/latch4t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/latch4.jpg)
Next we begin assembling the trigger group. You can see the difference between the old and new hammer springs on the far right. Just to the right of the trigger-guard you can see the clip ejector springs. The one on the bottom is new.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup1.jpg)
Trigger-guard and clip-ejector spring has been installed. The trick with the ejector spring is to line up the "c" end with the pin the the trigger group and lift while pushing onto the shelf which provides tension. Helps to have 3 hands. I used the two punches shown to install the ejector spring. The large one to lift and the reverse end of the smaller one to push, while holding the "c" end with my left hand.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup2.jpg)
Safety and hammer are installed. Both snap in and are under light tension by the clip ejector spring. The clip ejector spring is also known as the safety spring.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup3.jpg)
Installing the trigger and hammer spring can be a bear. The instructions call for using your fingers to squeeze the trigger against the spring group until you can install the pin. I found a little extra leverage helps and no hammering needed to get the trigger pin in all the way.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup4t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup4.jpg)
Completed trigger group. At this point I also checked the catch, sear, and release to make sure that the hammer was not going to follow the bolt when the trigger is held back. Also check the operation of the safety.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup5t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup5.jpg)
Complete trigger group as it would look in the receiver.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup6t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/tgroup6.jpg)
Some gauges I've been waiting for have come in so I can resume some more of the reassembly.
These are in order: Throat erosion gauge, muzzle erosion gauge, Field gauge, Go gauge, NoGo gauge.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge0t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge0.jpg)
Muzzle gauge in the front of the barrel. Please use care when using this gauge so as not to damage the barrel crown. This one gauges at "1", new is "0". Pretty good for a rifle that is older than me. I think this one will be a shooter for a while to come.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge1.jpg)
Throat gauge on a stripped reciever. This one gauges at "1". Pretty good. Should last a good long time. It is hard to see in the picture because I couldn't get a good angle on the gauge. You can see that the reciever lines up at the 2 line, but the barrel itself is lined up below the 1.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge2.jpg)
Here we have a stripped bolt in the reciever. Once the extractor comes out everything else falls out. This next set of tests requires the bolt be stripped.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge3.jpg)
And here we have the GO gauge. Use finger pressure to close the bolt on the gauge.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge4t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/gauge4.jpg)
Now that I am happy with the results of the gauge tests, I can start putting the bolt back together. The extra parts in this picture are the extractor, ejector spring, extractor spring. The brass is a piece of 10mm Auto deprimed and bell mouthed.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/bolt1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/bolt1.jpg)
Make sure you clean inside the holes where the springs go, expecially the extractor spring. Mine came with extra cosmoline in these holes which left me wondering why my case rims were bent after firing!
Here is where all the pieces go together. Firing pin gets a light film of oil. Same with both plungers. Extractor leg gets a light light film of grease.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/bolt2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/bolt2.jpg)
You need 4 hands to complete the assembly. So here comes the handy vise grip to the rescue. I am using the deprimed 10mm brass to depress the ejector plunger to get the extractor in place. The extractor is what holds the ejector plunger in place and keeps the firing pin from falling out. Note that the rear of the bolt is not level. This is because of the firing pin. It actually helps to wad up a paper towel back there to make a "self leveling" base so that the bolt sits evenly and reduces the chance of everything flying apart.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/bolt3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/bolt3.jpg)
Closeup of the extractor and 10mm brass. You can also see the yellow pads for the vise grip in the background. Those yellow pads were actually too slick and the brass kept shifting. The key to getting the extractor on the bolt is to use a small screwdriver to depress the spring for the extractor while the brass and vise grips keep the ejector plunger depressed. Then use finger pressure to push the extractor into place. The empty primer hole in the brass is where the tip of firing pin now rests. Hence the reason I am using deprimed brass. And wear safety glasses. When things fly apart, they fly!
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/bolt4t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/bolt4.jpg)
You'd think I would remember to get a picture of the completed bolt. Oh well... Next step is finishing the replacement stock. I've already test fitted the pieces, but didn't take any pictures as I was preoccupied with trying to keep grease off of new wood. I ended up smudging grease on the stock afterwards anyways and had to clean it up with mineral spirits. well, once the spirits dry out I can start sanding. wish me luck as this part is somthing I haven't done before! ;)
The unfinished stock. This is a pre-fitted walnut unfinished stock from Deans Gun Restorations. My reasons for picking this stock is that it is fitted by hand to an existing receiver and trigger group. This results in a very tight fit which improves accuracy. The finish I've picked is Fairtrimmers Military Ox. In some circles, this stuff is considered a "short cut" or a "cheat" when it comes to finishing a Garand stock. Traditionally applying boiled linseed oil and tung oil over multiple applications to get the right look which can take days is traditional. The purpose for this stock is just for shooting, so I wanted a weather resistant finish that was easy to apply and would look right. Sandpaper is 180 grit and 400 grit. 180 is for prepping the wood and the 400 is for application of the finish.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock1.jpg)
Everything has been sanded and the first coat of finish has been dribbled and rubbed in.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock2.jpg)
I can see why some people like the "wet" look of a finished stock.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock3.jpg)
The color will darken, but for now it looks pretty good.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock4t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock4.jpg)
The finish quickly ate through a pair of rubber latex gloves. I ended up applying the finish with bare fingers. Which wasn't bad. The finish washes off easily with soap and water and it is not sticky or does it have a heavy smell/fumes.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock5t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock5.jpg)
Here is the stock after the first hand rubbing and rubdown with towels. The end finish is dark, the wood grains are well defined, the surface is non-reflective, the texture is not oily, but warm with a good grippy feel.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock6t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock6.jpg)
End comparision with the before and after.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock7t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock7.jpg)
I put another coat on this morning followed by another rubdown. I'm going to let the whole thing dry in the garage for a while and I'll try to get some pictures out in the sun.
The stock in full direct sunlight. I swear it didn't look purple when I took the picture.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock8t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock8.jpg)
The stock in indirect sunlight. Closest to the actual color.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock9t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/stock9.jpg)
Next we start assembling the metal to the wood. Here we have the rear handguard and C-clip. Two "Dillos" (from LaRue Tactical) which are actually bottle cap openers and shown because they will help with the C-Clip. Normally there would be a clip pliers used to open the C-clip, but I found this method quick and easy.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard1.jpg)
The C-clip as held by bottle cap openers.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard2.jpg)
By pulling the two apart, I can spread the C-clip with one hand.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard3.jpg)
The rear handguard goes in sideways and twists into the C-clip. The clip is actually held very securely. Trying to force the C-clip usually ends up with a broken clip or handguard.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard4t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard4.jpg)
The Dillos work for both install and uninstall.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard5t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard5.jpg)
Top view
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard6t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard6.jpg)
The rear handguard slides into two grooves in the barrel. The C-clip holds it all in place. This picture also shows the lower band installed on the barrel in front of the rear handguard.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard7t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard7.jpg)
The front handguard slides into the lower band. I see I forgot to take a picture of how to install the metal in the front handguard. It is just a matter of sliding the long trunion into the handguard and sliding the front cap over the tabs and bending the tabs over. Also note that one end of the front handguard is larger than the other. The large end goes into the lower bar nearest the rear handguard.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard8t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard8.jpg)
The gas cylinder and front sight are installed after the front handguard. It should be a fairly tight fit. Otherwise you may need to peen the splines. Gas cylinder lock has not yet been installed in this picture.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard9t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/handguard9.jpg)
Next we turn the rifle over and install the op rod into the gas cylinder. Pretty straight forward.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/oprod1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/oprod1.jpg)
Install the bolt and then we have to get the op rod back over the bolt. To do this, line up the op rod hand with the notch in the receiver.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/oprod2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/oprod2.jpg)
It will pop right in.Don't forget to line up the bolt as well.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/oprod3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/oprod3.jpg)
Now that the handguards are on and the op rod is in place we can start putting the receiver pieces together. In this pictures is a spare bullet guide (left), follower, follower arm and receiver pin. At the top is the op rod catch and below that a Hollbrook Device. The purpose of the Hollbrook Device is to NOT eject the clip on empty and to NOT drop the bolt when a clip is loaded. The op rod has to be manually pulled to drop the bolt on a loaded clip and the clip latch pushed to eject a clip. This extra step in operation is to keep from losing clips and to help with loading in prone and for left handed users.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv1.jpg)
Here we have put the bullet guide in place. It fits into the notch in the receiver legs. The Hollbrook Device takes the place of the op rod catch also shown and slips under the bullet guide legs.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv2.jpg)
Follower drops in between the legs, show being held up by a punch tool. The follower arm slips into the slots for the follower and the end withthe hole lines up with the holes in the bullet guide and clip latch. Sharp eyed viewers will note the pin is being started on the wrong side. The stock will actually NOT fit with the pin on this side as the pin won't be able to seat flush.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv3.jpg)
Top view of the follower and follower arm relationship. Pin is on the correct side. Once it is lined up, it needs to be tapped in.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv4t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv4.jpg)
Next the op rod spring is loaded into the op rod.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv4at.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv4a.jpg)
The op rod is seated on the pins on the follower arm.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv6t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv6.jpg)
Becareful as the op rod can be installed upside down. This position will prevent the stock from seating properly.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv5t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/recv5.jpg)
Now we install the metal to the stock. Here is the buttplate. It gets attached with 2 screws. A long screw that holds the rear sling loop in place and a wood screw. If you are using a new stock the wood screw may be tough to start. A light tap with the hammer will get it started.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final1t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final1.jpg)
The front sling loop/ferrule has a screw that tightens it to the stock. Loosen this screw to make it easier to slide it onto the front of the stock. Then tighten the screw. Sling already attached in this picture.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final2t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final2.jpg)
The ferrule slides into the lower band for assembling the upper and lower pieces.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final3t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final3.jpg)
The receiver legs slide into the stock. Notice the nice snug fit between the metal and wood! There should be no resistance, if there is, something is in the wrong place!
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final4t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final4.jpg)
Next open the trigger guard and drop it into place.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final5t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final5.jpg)
No need to force it, just wiggle it around until it slides in place.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final6t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final6.jpg)
The trigger guard lock should just touch the trigger when swinging closed.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final7t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final7.jpg)
You usually need to slap the trigger guard closed.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final8t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final8.jpg)
Completed install.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final9t.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final9.jpg)
Test the bolt release using dummy rounds. In this case snap caps and empty brass.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final9at.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final9a.jpg)
With the Hollbrook device installed the bolt should never release until it is pulled. The clip should never eject until the clip latch is pressed. An empty clip should be able to be loaded on its own.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/loaded-testt.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/loaded-test.jpg)
Some sharp readers will notice that I haven't installed the gas plug yet. This is because I will be experimenting with 2 gas systems. First is an adjustable type that uses an allen screw threaded into the gas plug, the second uses screws that have holes of varying sizes drilled into it to relieve gas pressure. The third is the stock solid plug.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final9bt.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/final9b.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/rifle-backt.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/rifle-back.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/rifle-frontt.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/rifle-front.jpg)
I hope you enjoyed this walkthrough as much as I did. Remember you can get your own CMP Garand and fix it up as well. Shooting qualifications can be aquired by shooting at an Appleseed and asking the ShootBoss for a CMP certificate.
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/garand-endt.jpg)
(http://pages.ripco.net/~tin-man/other/garand-end.jpg)
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Afterword1:
I did get a chance to talk to someone who has finished a few stocks and he showed me a few pictures of some of his work. The reason 400 grit sandpaper is used to apply the oil is to get wood dust into the pores and give the stock a smoother finish. A glossy look can be achived by progressively using finer and finer sandpaper (from 400 to 1000 grit) over several days while applying the oil and hand rubbing the oil in. This will also reduce the texture feel so it is a personal preference.
It is also recommended NOT to remove the action from a fitted stock if possible. Clean with stock in place. Oil with action in place. It also takes a few clips to shoot an action into a new stock before the groups will settle.
The stock color also lightens after final cure in 3 days. The oil finish was dry in just a few hours and left overnight to dry before applying the second coat.
That's awesome! Do you have it in a PDF file that I could download and save for posterity? I was going to save it myself that way but the pictures being thumbnails seemed an impediment.
Casey