It appears that the day of the "Liberty Training Rifle" has arrived and that the Ruger 10/22 is particularly well suited so I started this new topic.
Here is a link to a web page that I feel has some really good information on cleaning the Ruger 10/22 magazine when you find that you can't get all of the "junk" out by spraying with "Gun Scrubber" or soaking for days in solvent.
Let's have some help here guys..........
http://www.heypete.com/pete/shooting/rugermag.html
(http://www.heypete.com/pete/shooting/images/rugermag/th_IMG_0363.jpg)
Thank you I need to do this desperately. Running lubed bullets gunks up my mags in a hurry, but they sure shoot well.
I noticed misfeeds and other problems on Sunday of the Phoenix shoot, what with all of that strong "breeze" and dust ;D I use after market Hot lips magazines,how do you clean them?
Quote from: 1911Ron on November 03, 2007, 10:11:17 PM
I noticed misfeeds and other problems on Sunday of the Phoenix shoot, what with all of that strong "breeze" and dust ;D I use after market Hot lips magazines,how do you clean them?
Soak them in a solvent that is not harmful to either the plastic or spring. Alcohol might be such. Blow them out with compressed air. Maybe an e-mail to ramline, the mfr of the mags might help.
Quote from: TwoGlock on November 03, 2007, 08:45:09 AM
It appears that the day of the "Liberty Training Rifle" has arrived and that the Ruger 10/22 is particularly well suited so I started this new topic.
Here is a link to a web page that I feel has some really good information on cleaning the Ruger 10/22 magazine when you find that you can't get all of the "junk" out by spraying with "Gun Scrubber" or soaking for days in solvent.
http://www.heypete.com/pete/shooting/rugermag.html
If you are not comfortable with disassembling the 10/22 here are some pretty good pictures and with step by step instructions.
I still have difficulty with getting the bolt handle back and getting the bolt to drop in easily. Practice, Practice, Practice!
http://www.alpharubicon.com/leo/triggerruger1022.htm
WFIW, some 10-22 owners have drilled an appropriately-sised hole in the very rear of the receiver so as to be able to clean their 10-22 from the breech, which is the very much preferred method of cleaning. The hole is normally completely covered by the stock, and is accessible after dismounting the action from the stock.
I definitely wouldn't do it to any 10-22 unless you are certain the rifle will not need to be sent to Ruger for warranty work, as I am strongly suspect Ruger would take a dim view of so doing.
Quote from: raf on November 04, 2007, 09:03:41 AM
WFIW, some 10-22 owners have drilled an appropriately-sised hole in the very rear of the receiver so as to be able to clean their 10-22 from the breech, which is the very much preferred method of cleaning. The hole is normally completely covered by the stock, and is accessible after dismounting the action from the stock.
I definitely wouldn't do it to any 10-22 unless you are certain the rifle will not need to be sent to Ruger for warranty work, as I am strongly suspect Ruger would take a dim view of so doing.
Wouldnt the bolt be in the way? ???
You have to remove the bolt in order to use the hole drilled in the back of the receiver for cleaning.
There is a jig on Brownells for drilling the hole if you are not certain about getting it centered properly.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=989&st=10/22%20jig&s=
Is it bad to disassemble the barrel from the receiver to clean the barrel?
There's no need to remove the barrel for cleaning. A .22 does not get the barrel as dirty (copper fouling and carbon) as a centerfire rifle. The barrel is pretty easy to clean (as is the rest of the rifle).
I never push a patch or brush through a barrel. Pushing any rod cause it to flex and rub the inside of the barrel (rifllng). I always put the rod down into the barrel and then screw the brush or patch tip into the rod and PULL it out of the barrel. Pulling puts tension on the rod and keeps it arrow straight, just be sure to pull slow and eyeball the muzzle so you keep the rod centered in the barrel and not rubbing the rifling.
As to cleaning the action - I pull the action out of the stock (one screw), remove the two pins that hold the trigger group in, and spray the crud away with brake cleaner (that cheap stuff you can get at WalMart for about $1.50 a can.) The I let dry (dries quickly so don't let it sit too long) and re-lube with spray RemOil. Once it's lubed I put it back together, wipe it off with a oily gun wipe and put it back in the case till next time.
On the Wal-Mart 10/22 Special, Brake Cleaner will eat up the receiver finish.
Don't ask me how I know ::)
Quote from: Ashes on November 04, 2007, 10:51:21 AM
You have to remove the bolt in order to use the hole drilled in the back of the receiver for cleaning.
There is a jig on Brownells for drilling the hole if you are not certain about getting it centered properly.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=989&st=10/22%20jig&s=
Is it bad to disassemble the barrel from the receiver to clean the barrel?
The barrel (unless it is an expensive custom threaded-on Match barrel) is attached via a "V-block" which uses two screws to pull the barrel tight into the receiver as the screws are tightened. A barrel removal, even if you have an inch-pounds torque wrench for re-tightening, might just disturb things enough to require a re-zeroing. Maybe not. In any event, why go to the hassle of doing that? I'd find out the correct "wet-torque" value, apply some LocTite, and torque 'em down for just about forever. The threads in the receiver are aluminum, and the screws are steel. Not wise to be constantly rotating the screws, IMHO. Not surprisingly, there are some 'high tech" modified V-blocke available if you wish. www.rimfirecentral.com (http://www.rimfirecentral.com) has the low-down on them and vendors of same.
The drilling of the hole in the very rear of the receiver is NOT mentioned as a place through which to insert the cleaning rod. As mentioned above, the proper way to clean the 10-22 rifle is to PULL the rod through the bore from the breech to the muzzle. The drilled hole simply makes attachment/detachment of cleaning rod tips easier if your fingers and the tip don't all fit into the inside of the receiver at the same time. Also, one can wet down brushes and patches outside the receiver, thus not flooding it with excess chemicals.
Regardless of how you clean your 10-22, a muzzle guide is an REQUIRED item, as it saves wear at the very end of the bore where everything is critical. I know we ALL use coated soft alloy rods with brass tips and brushes, but using such a device is a good habit and cheap insurance.
Quote from: ken grant on November 04, 2007, 11:59:06 AM
On the Wal-Mart 10/22 Special, Brake Cleaner will eat up the receiver finish.
Don't ask me how I know ::)
It will melt the plastics grips on some older Ruger MK II hand guns also.
Don't ask me how I know either............. Ha!! :-X :-X :-X
I've never had any luck with brake cleaner; I spend the money for GunScrubber - worth every penny; the stuff is great.
Tips:
There are two types of Gun Scrubber aerosol. One is all purpose, but a second one clearly says on the can "will not harm plastics". Indicates to me the normal one might be harmful to some polymers/plastics/finishes.
Nicking the crown of a barrel is not good for accuracy, thus all the effort to avoid doing so while cleaning. The use of a muzzle guide should practically eliminate the problem. The use of a coated one-piece rod takes care of the rest. Pushing a rod through from the muzzle will put the dirt into the receiver, where it is harder to clean out, especially on a 10/22.
I keep an aerosol spray can of bore cleaner in my range bag and bore snakes for different calibers. Before leaving the range I spray bore cleaner into the barrel from the receiver end while holding the gun with the muzzle down. If I have shot a number of guns I do this to all of them before using the bore snakes so the chemical has some time to work. I run the bore snake through each barrel about three times from the receiver end. Then I spray some lube down the barrel from the receiver end and run the snake one more time. As soon as the snake starts to look dirty, I wash it.
I use rods when I have shot a few hundred rounds through a barrel without cleaning, or after about a half dozen of the bore snake cleanings. The heavy duty cleaning will include copper or lead remover stuff (as appropriate) in addition to bore cleaner. The worst barrels will get one or two patches of a bore shine paste before the final light oiling. I usually do multiple guns at a time like this since it is a chore, but by giving chemicals time to work before brushing/patching, there seems to be less work. Also, I use at least two rods, one for brushes and one for patches, when I clean guns of the same caliber. I use a rod guide whenever possible in the action while cleaning from the receiver end.
I make sure the bore cleaner I buy says it will remove plastics for cleaning my shotguns (wads, you know). Not all of them do.
CB3