Hi all,
I just joined a 500 yd range over here. It has nothing but real estate down range.
So, whats the best target? Steel? Paper? How should I support it?
I'm guessing I need to invest in a good spotting scope now, right?
Thanks,
J
What I use is a wooden base that holds up a piece of cardboard that you attach your 1" squares to for your 500 yard shooting. The base is 2x4's with the supports being 2x2. I also have a metal popper that resets itself that is an 8" circle that is a blast to shoot.
Raymon
1" squares at 500 yards?
Not me, brother. :o
Sounds like a good stand, though.
J
What I did at my farm was to set some 2inch PVC at the target line. I then made frames out of 2x2's that I can attach cardboard backers to. They are 2 feet wide.
At Buckingam the setup is better with 4x4 posts and plywood. We also have some 18 inch steel gongs that we shoot at 400 yards. At first this range was setup with backers on wire strung between posts. Can you guess what happened on one of the first 400 yard shots?
Another idea suggested by VA shooter is to make up some 16"x16" black paper squares. These would be exactly like 1 inch squares at 25m and would better let you examine your groups. Of course, there are always the D targets if you can find them or the High Power Bulls.
4x8 sheet of corroplast ziptied between two t posts. Quick, easy, stands up to the wind and is waterproof.
Thanks for the ideas, guys. I especially like the corrugated plastic idea. How many holes can I poke in that thing? Do they sell it at Lowes?
I can see me spray painting a silhouette or 2 to that thing. Full size at 500.
J
Coroplast is used for Political and other yard signs. We used to pick it up after elections. You can often find it new in Art stores and sign shops.
Quote from: Appalacious on October 08, 2009, 01:46:04 PM
Thanks for the ideas, guys. I especially like the corrugated plastic idea. How many holes can I poke in that thing? Do they sell it at Lowes?
You can poke an amazing amount of holes before it looses structural rigidity. If the center of a sheet is completely shot up, you can just staple a smaller piece of corroplast over the holes.
I purchased my corroplast at a local sign supply store. The 4x8 sheets are under $11 and the 18x24" sheets are .89 cents.
If you are going to leave it at the range, you could just use some rebar instead of tposts.
I would like to try and make some type of inexpensive, reactive target using these plastic F type targets. Wouldn't have to drive down range to check for hits. The self healing plastic wouldn't show hits anyways.
I can't find any D type with scoring rings.
http://www.letargets.com/estylez_item.aspx?item=F+TARGET (http://www.letargets.com/estylez_item.aspx?item=F+TARGET)
(http://www.letargets.com/images/f-target.jpg)
In Yancyeville they had a pretty nice setup that would work well for you. They used PVC to make a solid platform for the base,and then extended what looked to be about 2-3 inch diameter pipe straight up for about 2 feet. Then they dropped two 2x2's inside and then stapled the corrugated plastic to that. The down side is that when the wind picks up they fall over. Overall it is a great set up and it is easy to break down and doesn't take up THAT much space. I am sure if you hunt around a little or if someone from Yancyeville sees this you could get a picture. BULKHEAD? Hope that helps. Any other questions just PM me.
"The Kid"
We used these at 25M and at 400 yards. (See "Target Frame" attachment)
The span between posts is ~15 feet. (Cuts down on the number of posts required)
Recommend 3-4 shooters per span at 25M, Only 2 shooters per span at 400 yards.
The visible up / down stagger for the horizontal members (1 x 3s) helps prevent x-fires.
These members have a semi-permanent screw in the middle.
They fold in half for transportation.
I chopped ~4 inches off each 8 footer and they fit diagonally in my 6 foot truck bed.
Do not post cardboard over the posts. (.30 Cal holes will be evident)
Use plenty of staples to secure the cardboard.
Targets too, having to Re-Staple ANYTHING at 400 yards wastes a lot of time.
We used Full Size "D" targets from RWVA.
Leave gaps in the cardboard between shooters' positions.
Gaps prevent your 150 foot target line from being a GIANT wind sail and saves on cardboard, etc...
We had another event with 60+ MPH winds and it BENT some lighter variety T-Posts.
Have fun on that 500 yard range.
Full Distance Logistics:
Try these "Hit Records" too. (See "Hit Records" attachment)
We had an Instructor and Host Range family member on a 4-wheeler.
They hauled tail down to the targets after each stage to record actual hit locations for each shooter on a clipboard.
They had a sheet for "Sighters" and a sheet for "AQTs."
They pasted over the hits with little circular stickers from Staples / Office Max, etc...
We had plenty of time to present history and other instruction during these breaks.
Hope this helps.
sk
PLATES
Quote from: Appalacious on October 08, 2009, 10:10:08 AM
Hi all,
I just joined a 500 yd range over here. It has nothing but real estate down range.
So, whats the best target? Steel? Paper? How should I support it?
I'm guessing I need to invest in a good spotting scope now, right?
Thanks,
J
We have a slightly different tact.
We are very fortunate that 500M ranges can be set up nearly anywhere here in the wilds of NM. Lots of public land in NM.
We like
steel Railroad tie plates supported by rebar, etc. These plates can be found near railroad tracks or crossings usually pitched out as trash along the side.
(http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/1598/plates.jpg) (http://img83.imageshack.us/i/plates.jpg/)
The RR workers replace them when they redo the new ties. They are nearly 3/4" steel and last nearly forever at
500m with a 30 Cal. Landscaping companies often have them too. They pry them off before they sell the ties for landscaping. Don't remember the cost, but it's cheap.
BlueFeather and I have set up many, what we call our, RQM ranges (Rifleman's Quarter Mile range) on BLM or State Land.
Stack them 3 deep in a horizontal position to emulate a man size target-more or less depending on plate size, and they do vary a bit.
Ours usually average about 3 by 4 1/2 MOA. Most of the ammo any of our AR's or M1A's like is under 4 MOA anyway.
There are no groups to measure, no spotting of holes. That's because you get a very audible sonic affirmation.
It's either a hit (kill) or a miss. The very distinct "ta-wock" of the steel is very noticible at 500M
even without electronic ears.
A 223/5.56 is much harder to hear. ::)
Simple and precise. :) We use this method as a
"quick n' dirty" way to keep our skills honed at the Rifleman's Quarter Mile.
We usually set them up in places where we have to hike, just so it adds a more realistic effect.
In our green shooting jackets, no mats, we get slung up, get in prone or not and fire. First shot from a cold bore at 500M. Tells you alot about you and your rifle.
Again, you know immediately if you made a "hit". Instant feedback. O0
Good stuff.
You don't really have to go to the target. At that range, the shot can be called by observing the dust from soil or rock. Adjust if necessary...but you know that. 8)
The plates can be spot welded cheaply. Remember they last
nearly forever at 500M with 30 Cal., so the $20 dollars weld fee or so is well spent.
We just wire them and replace the wire as necessary. Stack them 3 deep like the pic, but touching. Use 3 -4' pieces of rebar (5/8" is best) or contractor stakes like the pic. Set the stacked plates back about 20 degrees off vertical and they are nearly self-supporting, albeit a bit smaller size.
So it's sorta built in this order: Pound the stakes back at a 20 degree angle or less, stack the first two plates and wire them. Add the last plate and wire to the middle
plate.
(The stakes shown are 2' and are too short.)
Plus One for Steel Gongs !!!
We'll be setting up a range or two with steel for this winter.
Thought it would be nice to have 2, 4, and 8 MOA gongs for each distance.
4 MOA is an absolute requirement.
Some friends in PA have 2 MOA gongs out to 1000.
They compete in 1000 yard competitions regularly.
They spray paint the targets white before a session and precisely spot the hits with optics.
Have fun.
sk
TaosGlock
Do you have any pictures of the rail road steel all together? Or more speciffially how do you attach the individual pieces to each other?
I just welded together a small frame to hold some cardboard large enough to hold a single AQT target. I needed some quick so I through it together.
Staple gun hammer and nails and what ever is handy while I am on the road be it card board and 2x4's I also have a few d prone targets I re use them by covering the holes with masking tape and a black magic marker (when needed) I have used pallets old plywood etc,, for backers,,,,,and yes I clean up my mess when I leave .
I think next time I am home I will shop around for a printer seems most of us do not get to find d prone targets .
I would use steel but there is only so much room with 18 wheeler for personal stuff.
Wade